Entradas

, , , , , ,

Patek Philippe Ref. 6002 Sky Moon Tourbillon, Rare Handcrafts Geneva

Eliminar el término: Patek Philippe Ref. 6002 Sky Moon Tourbillon Patek Philippe

Patek Philippe Ref. 6002 Sky Moon Tourbillon, Rare Handcrafts Geneva

, , , , , , ,

Christie’s Watches Online: The New York Edition – “Andy Warhols Patek Philippe calatrava watch”

Christie’s Watches Online: The New York Edition

A selection of highlights from our upcoming sale

Patek Philippe, Perpetual Calendar, Chronograph, Platinum, Diamonds, Ref. 3990E

CIRCA: 1994
CASE MATERIAL: Platinum, Diamonds
CASE DIAMETER: 35.5mm
MOVEMENT NO’:876.839
CASE NO’: 2.945.342
DIAL: Black, Diamonds
MOVEMENT: Manual
FUNCTIONS: Perpetual Calendar, Chronograph
BOX: Yes
PAPERS: No
ACCESSORIES: Patek Philippe Platinum and Diamond Tang Buckle, An Additional White Diamond Patek Philippe Dial, A Patek Philippe Extract From the Archives Confirming Date of Sale: September 14th, 1994, Product Literature, Patek Philippe Service Box, Patek Philippe Presentation Box
$150,000-250,000


Patek Philippe, American Calendar Pocket Watch, 18K Yellow Gold, Ref. 725/4

CIRCA: 1969
CASE MATERIAL: 18k Yellow Gold
CASE DIAMETER: 46mm
MOVEMENT NO’: 931.257
CASE NO’: 327.503
DIAL: White
MOVEMENT: Manual
FUNCTIONS: American Calendar, Digital Display, Moonphases,
Subsidiary Seconds
BOX: No
PAPERS: No
ACCESORIES: A Patek Philippe Extract From the Archives Confirming
Date of Sale April 17th, 1973
$30,000-50,000


Patek Philippe, Retailed by Hausmann & Co., 18K Gold Wristwatch, Ref. 570, Formerly Owned by Andy Warhol

CIRCA:1954
CASE MATERIAL: 18k Yellow Gold
CASE DIAMETER: 35.5mm
DIAL: Silver
MOVEMENT: Manual
FUNCTIONS: Time Only
BOX: No
PAPERS: No
ACCESSORIES: A Patek Philippe Extract from the Archives confirming date of sale on June 20, 1955, Sotheby’s 1988 Jewelry and Watches Catalogs, featuring this watch as Lot 264 of the December section ‘The Andy Warhol Collection’
$45,000-95,000


Cartier, Crash, 18K Pink Gold, Ref. W1544251

CIRCA: 2003
CASE MATERIAL: 18k Pink Gold
CASE DIAMETER: 38mm X 23mm
DIAL: White
MOVEMENT: Manual
FUNCTIONS: Time Only
BOX: No
PAPERS: No
ACCESSORIES: 18k Pink Gold Cartier Deployant Buckle, Cartier Sales Receipt Dated December 31, 2003, A Cartier Valuation Report for insurance value Dated September 27, 20
$40,000-60,000


Rolex, Triple Calendar, Chronograph, Steel, Ref. 6036

CIRCA: 1963
CASE MATERIAL: Steel
CASE DIAMETER: 36.5mm
SERIAL NO: 943969
DIAL: White
MOVEMENT: Manual
FUNCTIONS: Day, Date, Month, Chronograph
CALIBER: 72C
BOX: No
PAPERS: No
$80,000-120,000


Breguet, 18K White Gold, Skeletonized, Tourbillion, Ref. 3355

CIRCA: 2010s
CASE MATERIAL: 18k White Gold
CASE DIAMETER: 36mm
DIAL: Skeletonized
MOVEMENT: Manual
FUNCTIONS: Skeletonized, Tourbillon
BOX: No
PAPERS: No
ACCESSORIES: White Gold Tang Buckle
$30,000-50,000


Rolex, Chronograph, Steel, Ref. 6034

CIRCA: 1963
CASE MATERIAL: Steel
CASE DIAMETER: 36.5mm
SERIAL: 907700
BRACELET MATERIAL: Steel
BRACELET SIZE: Approximately 165mm Overall Length
DIAL: White
MOVEMENT: Manual
FUNCTIONS: Chronograph
BOX: No
PAPERS: No
$20,000-40,000


Rolex, Sea Dweller, “Great White”, Steel, Ref. 1665

CIRCA: 1978 CASE MATERIAL: Steel
CASE DIAMETER: 40mm
SERIAL: 5410564
BRACELET MATERIAL: Steel
BRACELET SIZE: Approximately 185mm Overall Length
DIAL: Black
MOVEMENT: Automatic
FUNCTIONS: Date,
BOX: No
PAPERS: No
ACCESSORIES: Original Crystal Included
$18,000-24,000


Patek Philippe, Nautilus, Steel, Diamonds, Ref. 3800/1

CIRCA: 1996
CASE MATERIAL: Steel
CASE DIAMETER: 35.5mm
MOVEMENT NO’: 3.021.860
CASE NO’:4.009.746
BRACELET MATERIAL: Steel
BRACELET SIZE: Approximately 175mm Overall Length
DIAL: Black, Diamonds
MOVEMENT: Automatic
FUNCTIONS: Date
BOX: Yes
PAPERS: No
ACCESSORIES: Patek Philippe Outer Box, Patek Philippe Presentation Box, A Patek Philippe Extract from the Archives, Confirming Date of Sale February, 26th 1997
$30,000-50,000


Patek Philippe, Perpetual Caledar Chronograph, Yellow Gold, Ref. 5970J, Double Sealed

ψ This image is of a similar watch of the same model for display purposes only and is not the actual watch being offered for sale nor included in this lot. The endangered species strap is also shown for display purposes only and is not for sale. The actual watch for sale will be supplied with a calf leather strap.
CIRCA: 2008
CASE MATERIAL: 18k Yellow Gold
CASE DIAMETER: 40mm
DIAL: White
MOVEMENT: Manual
FUNCTIONS: Perpetual Calendar, Chronograph, Moonphases
BOX: Yes
PAPERS: Yes
ACCESSORIES: 18k Yellow Gold Patek Philippe Buckle, Patek Philippe Certificate of Origin, Patek Philippe Presentation Box, Leather Folder, Product Literature
ψ Please note the endangered species strap is shown for display purposes only and is not for sale. Upon sale, this watch bag will be cut and the watch will be supplied to the buyer with a non CITES strap (not shown). For further information please refer to the Conditions of Sale.
$100,000-150,000

, , ,

Patek Philippe – GRANDE SONNERIE REF. 6301P

Patek Philippe - GRANDE SONNERIE REF. 6301P

Patek Philippe

Grande Sonnerie 6301P

Patek Philippe - GRANDE SONNERIE REF. 6301P

Patek Philippe – GRANDE SONNERIE REF. 6301P

Patek Philippe reasserts its mastery of the music of time by launching its first wristwatch with a grande sonnerie in its purest manifestation

The Genevan manufacture is fulfilling the expectations of many connoisseurs, collectors, and aficionados with the enrichment of its current collection by a wristwatch that features a highly coveted and extremely elaborate sound function: the grande sonnerie, that automatically strikes the full hours and the quarter hours. This grand complication, exceptionally rare in a wristwatch, is complemented with a petite sonnerie (that does not strike the quarter hours), a minute repeater (that strikes on demand), and with a patented jumping subsidiary seconds. The Ref. 6301P Grande Sonnerie has a new 703-part movement, cased in platinum as well as a black dial in grand feu enamel; it will round out and recrown the unique collection of Patek Philippe repeater timepieces.

The acoustic indication of time is derived directly from the origins of mechanical timekeeping. In the 14th century, the clocks that graced Europe’s cities had neither dials nor hands. Instead, they sounded the full hours with an automatic strikework. The first portable spring barrel timepieces of the 15th century were often fitted with automatic chiming mechanisms as well. This also applies to the first 16th-century pocket watches. The late 17th century saw the emergence of the first mechanisms that struck the time on demand – initially as quarter repeaters –, followed early in the subsequent century by minute repeaters. In 18th-century Geneva, the rules of the watchmakers guild required all artisans who wanted to become master watchmakers to demonstrate their skills by crafting a quarter repeater. This illustrates that mastering the acoustic indication of time was regarded as successful evidence of advanced horological know-how.

Patek-Philippe---GRANDE-SONNERIE-REF.-6301P

Patek-Philippe—GRANDE-SONNERIE-REF.-6301P

A core competence of Patek Philippe

Fully rooted in Geneva’s watchmaking tradition, Patek Philippe began to produce striking watches from the outset. In September 1839, four months after it was founded, the manufacture entered the first timepiece of this kind in its journal, a pocket watch with a repeater. In 1850, entries of pocket watches with a grande sonnerie appeared in the same journals. The catalog of the 1851 “Great Exhibition” in London (the first world exposition) mentions “repeaters” and “watches with automatic strikeworks” as specialties of Patek Philippe. This was followed in 1860 by Patek Philippe’s first pocket watches with minute repeaters, then in the course of the 19th century by further timepieces with quarter repeaters, five-minute repeaters, and minute repeaters.

In the early 20th century, with its striking timepieces, Patek Philippe definitely established itself as a front runner in watchmaking artistry, especially in their most elaborate and coveted manifestations – the grande sonnerie. The famous “Duc de Regla” pocket watch was sold in 1910 to the Duke of Regla, a Mexican nobleman. Today, it can be admired in the Patek Philippe Museum. It incorporates a grande and a petite sonneries plus a minute repeater which features a Westminster strikework that reproduces the melody of the Big Ben clock tower on five gongs almost authentically to the note. The 13 complicated timepieces crafted for American automobile manufacturer James Ward Packard between 1910 and 1927 included the first Patek Philippe pocket watch with a minute repeater and astronomical displays (delivered in 1927) as well as watches with grande sonneries, among them one with a Westminster chime on four gongs (1920). The famous “Graves” pocket watch delivered to wealthy New York banker and collector Henry Graves Junior in 1933, remained the world’s most complicated portable timepiece until 1989. Its 24 complications include acoustic functions on 5 gongs: a grande and a petite sonnerie, a minute repeater with a Westminster chime, and an alarm. At the same time, the manufacture pursued the miniaturization of repeater mechanisms to a wristwatch format and in 1916 presented its first wristwatch that struck the time – a five-minute repeater with a case and bracelet in platinum for a ladies’ wrist.

Patek-Philippe---GRANDE-SONNERIE-REF.-6301P

Patek-Philippe—GRANDE-SONNERIE-REF.-6301P

The renaissance of minute repeaters

In 1989, Patek Philippe celebrated its 150th anniversary, launching the Calibre 89 that would be the world’s most complicated portable mechanical timepiece for more than a quarter century. The 33 complications of this masterpiece of watchmaking artistry include the grande/petite sonnerie and minute repeater on four gongs. In this tribute to the renaissance of the mechanical watch, Patek Philippe also pays homage to repeating wristwatches. The caliber R 27 is the first minute repeater movement developed and crafted entirely in-house. It chimes in two commemorative wristwatches. The former manufacture president Philippe Stern was among the first to do away with the wildly chattering recoil anchor and optimized the striking functions with the centrifugal governor invented in the late 19th century. The Patek Philippe centrifugal governor had its debut in 1989 in the Calibre 89 and the two commemorative watches – the Ref. 3979 and 3974 – that are outfitted with the caliber R 27.
The impetus is set. In the course of the years, minute repeaters will enjoy a preferential position in Patek Philippe’s collections. Today, with a dozen models, they constitute the broadest selection of regularly produced minute repeater wristwatches, be they pure repeater models or combined with further complications (tourbillon, perpetual calendar, chronograph, World Time, etc.).
Since the pivotal year 1989 that marks the rebirth of the Patek Philippe chiming watch, the acoustic challenges have also occupied a prominent position in two further exceptional timepieces. The double-faced Star Caliber 2000 pocket watch (21 complications) was created to usher in the new millennium. For the first time in a case of its size, it accommodates a Westminster strikework with five gongs that plays the original melody of the tower clock of the parliament building in London – completely and correctly. It makes the minute repeater and the grande sonnerie a true feast for the ears. In turn, the Sky Moon Tourbillon presented in 2001 is the first double-faced wristwatch made by Patek Philippe. Among its 12 complications, it features a moving celestial chart and a minute repeater with cathedral gongs.


The grand master of chimes

In 2014, timed for the company’s 175th anniversary, Patek Philippe presented a further quantum leap in the domain of acoustic complications. It was the launch of the Ref. 5175 Grandmaster Chime, a double-faced wristwatch. Crafted in seven exemplars, it unites 20 complications, including a grande and petite sonneries, a minute repeater, an instantaneous perpetual calendar with a four-digit year display, and two patented world debuts: an acoustic alarm that strikes the preselected alarm time and a date repeater that sounds the current date. This first Patek Philippe wristwatch with a grande sonnerie is also the manufacture’s most complicated wristwatch and as the Ref. 6300 became part of the regular collection in 2016. The anniversary year 2014 also gave Patek Philippe the opportunity to demonstrate its competence in chiming watches with a further commemorative timepiece in a limited edition. It was the Ref. 5275 Chiming Jump Hour with jumping displays for the hours, minutes, and seconds as well as an automatic strike at the top of every hour.

The Ref. 6301P Grande Sonnerie

Patek Philippe has leveraged this momentum to enrich its regular collection with a masterpiece of miniaturization and acoustic perfection: the Ref. 6301P Grande Sonnerie. This grand complication is the manufacture’s first wristwatch that presents the grande sonnerie as the epitome of horological complications in its purest form, complemented with a petite sonnerie and a minute repeater. It is an event long awaited by watch enthusiasts.

To implement the grande sonnerie as envisioned, Patek Philippe developed a new movement as a spin-off of the caliber 300 of the Grandmaster Chime. Given its 703 parts, the caliber GS 36-750 PS IRM is remarkably compact for such a complex mechanism (diameter: 37 mm; height: 7.5 mm). One of the traditionally greatest difficulties for the engineers of grande sonneries is mastering energy flows and power reserves. Unlike in minute repeaters which must be triggered on demand by actuating a slide or a pusher, the grande sonnerie needs to have sufficient reserve power to automatically sound the required number of time strikes with uniform acoustic quality.

To address this challenge, Patek Philippe endowed the caliber GS 36-750 PS IRM with two tandem-connected twin mainspring barrels, one for the going train and the other for the chiming mechanism. This configuration delivers a power reserve of 72 hours for the movement and of 24 hours for the strikework. A three-day power reserve for the movement is what can be expected of a modern watch that is worn daily, in keeping with the customer-centric creation philosophy of Patek Philippe. The 24-hour power reserve for the strikework allows the watch to strike the full hours and the quarter hours during an entire day and thanks to a uniform torque characteristic to assure optimized sound intensity. The two twin mainspring barrels are wound with the crown pushed in and rotated clockwise to wind the going train and counterclockwise to wind the strikework. The four mainsprings feature slip bridles to avoid overtensioning.

A strikework with three gongs

As regards the strikework, Patek Philippe opted for three classic gongs – low, medium, high. This technical option requires more energy than systems with two gongs. It also complicates the watchmaker’s work when tuning each gong until all three create the legendary “Patek Philippe sound” so coveted by connoisseurs. Attached to the movement, the three gongs must not touch one another nor other parts of the case or movement despite the compact space in which they hover. Three hammers of identical size and mass guarantee a uniform strike for all three pitches. The selection of platinum as the case material also presented a challenge because it is difficult to master acoustically and requires Patek Philippe know-how that at the manufacture is handed down from one generation to the next.

The hours are struck on a low-pitched gong, the quarter hours with a three-strike high-low- medium sequence. The melody for the first quarter hour (15 minutes) sounds once, for the second quarter hour (30 minutes) twice and for the third quarter hour (45 minutes) three times. Each quarter-hour sequence is automatically preceded by the number of elapsed hours, and followed by the number of quarter hours. Thanks to the energy stored in the twin mainspring barrel of the strikework, this adds up to an impressive total of 1056 strikes in 24 hours. The owner can also select the strikework mode petite sonnerie; it strikes the full hours but omits the repetition of the hours when striking the quarter hours. In the silence mode, the automatic time strike is switched off altogether.

The selection of the strikework mode is performed with a slide switch in the caseband at 6 o’clock. The petite sonnerie mode is on the left adjoining the grande sonnerie mode in the middle and silence on the right. This special feature is the subject of a patent that was already developed for the Patek Philippe Grandmaster Chime and describes a mechanism that enables the selection and activation of the strike mode with a single slide switch. Formerly, two switches were needed to execute these steps. Another patent, also developed for the Grandmaster Chime, allows the complete isolation of the grande sonnerie in the silence mode, eliminating power consumption. On request, the minute repeater can be triggered by pressing the pusher in the crown at 3 o’clock. In response, it strikes the number of hours with low tones, the quarters with three-strike sequences (as in the grande sonnerie mode), and, on the higher-pitched gong, the number of minutes that have elapsed since the last quarter hour. The minute repeater can be triggered at any time, even if the slide is set to the silence mode.

A patented jumping second

When they reworked the caliber 300 from the Patek Philippe Grandmaster Chime, the engineers and designers at the manufacture added a small jumping seconds display, which was never done with a grande sonnerie. Inspired by the four patents of the 175th-anniversary model, the Ref. 5275 Chiming Jump Hour, they endowed the new Ref. 6301P with an innovative jumping seconds mechanism. Its system does not rely on jumper springs as usual but instead with wheels and a release lever that instantaneously unblocks the wheel train every second, making energy consumption easier to regulate and control. Thus, the new Ref. 6301P chiming watch presents a novel face characterized by the subsidiary seconds hand at 6 o’clock. With the blink of an eye, it jumps along the railway track minute scale from one second to the next, recalling the regulator clocks that were used in old watchmaking ateliers to synchronize the time. The new Ref. 6301P also benefits from the entire experience and the latest insights gained in the design and production of the commemorative watches crafted on the occasion of Patek Philippe’s 175th anniversary.

An exceptionally refined movement architecture

The new caliber GS 36-750 PS IRM – it can be admired through the sapphire-crystal case back – fulfills all the strict requirements of the Patek Philippe Seal. This applies to the technical parameters (rate accuracy, dependability) and to the finissage and attractive architecture of the individual components. Yet again, this clarifies the fact that at Patek Philippe, the complexity of a movement should never lessen its beauty and elegance, and like the case and the dial must measure up to the strict scrutiny of manufacture president Thierry Stern. Special attention was devoted to the design of the movement bridges, especially the barrel bridge (a key element of grande sonneries) and the transversal balance cock (balance bridge), a Patek Philippe rarity that assures a secure seat and pleasing visual proportions. Connoisseurs will discover many other aesthetic details, including the many reentrant angles that are very difficult to polish. The centrifugal governor that regulates the speed of the time strikes is decorated with exquisitely smoothed and polished finishes that are now visible to the observer. This spectacular movement is rounded out with a Gyromax® balance, the Spiromax® balance spring in Silinvar®, the three gongs coiled around the movement, and their respective hammers. The antireflective sapphire- crystal back positioned very close to the movement offers a fascinating glimpse into a micromechanical realm. It can be replaced with a solid platinum back that is delivered with the watch.

The livery: modern and elegant

The new Ref. 6301P Grande Sonnerie stands out with finesse, true to the Patek Philippe key principle that a grand complication must also be pleasant to wear in everyday situations. The platinum case, inspired by the Ref. 5370 split-seconds chronograph presented in 2015, expresses subtlety and balance in its curves and rounded contours, with the concave bezel for a perfect transition from the slightly cambered sapphire-crystal glass and the countersunk satin- finished case flanks. Like all Patek Philippe platinum cases, it sports a small diamond set in this instance at 12 o’clock because the usual 6 o’clock position is occupied by the slide switch for selecting the strikework mode.
Patek Philippe has leveraged its skills with respect to artisanship and rare handcrafts, notably on the black grand feu enamel dial with the “glacé” finish, applied Breguet numerals, and leaf- shaped hands in luminescent white gold. The slightly slanted Breguet numerals add a dynamic touch to the classic yet contemporary face. The displays for the hours, minutes, and subsidiary seconds at 6 o’clock are well proportioned alongside two power-reserve indicators for the movement and the strikework at 3 and 9 o’clock with semicircular scales identified with the inscriptions MOUVEMENT and SONNERIE. The timepiece is worn on a hand-stitched shiny black Alligator strap with square scales and a fold-over clasp.
A new sonorous chapter
The relaunch of the 1989 minute repeater wristwatches gave Patek Philippe the opportunity to push the door wide open for the return of modern repeater timepieces. With the presentation of the Grandmaster Chime in the anniversary year 2014, now followed by the new Ref. 6301P as part of the regular collection (although its complexity limits production to a few pieces per year), the manufacture has opened up a new chapter that paves the way to new developments in the field of grande sonneries – much to the delight, aesthetically and acoustically, of all connoisseurs and aficionados who are passionate about the music of time.

The 6 complications of the new Ref. 6301P Grande Sonnerie

1. Grande sonnerie
2. Petite sonnerie
3. Minute repeater
4. Movement power-reserve indicator
5. Strike work power-reserve indicator
6. Jumping seconds

Patents

• Isolation of the grande sonnerie in the silence mode (Patent CH 704 950 B1)
In the silence mode, this mechanism totally isolates the grande sonnerie from the power flow and eliminates energy consumption.

• Selection of the strikework mode (Patent CH 706 080 B1)
This mechanism enables the selection of the strikework mode (petite sonnerie, grande sonnerie, silence) with a single lever and a single slide switch. Two slide switches were formerly required for this operation.

• Jumping display with a jumping seconds wheel (Patent CH 707 181 A2)
This innovative mechanism for jumping displays does not require springs and levers but instead uses wheels and a release lever that instantaneously unblocks the wheel train every second, and features a coiled return spring as the only power element. The advantage of this system is that it makes energy consumption easier to regulate and control.

, ,

A new face for the Twenty~4, the Patek Philippe ladies

Twenty~4, the Patek Philippe ladies

A new face for the Twenty~4, the Patek Philippe ladies’ watch born to accompany every moment of the modern woman’s life

A new face for the Twenty~4, the Patek Philippe ladies

A new face for the Twenty~4, the Patek Philippe ladies

The manufacture is stepping up the allure of its Twenty~4 collection exclusively for women with a fresh interpretation of the original “manchette” or cuff-style quartz model in steel of 1999. It is launching two new versions adorned with white-gold applied Arabic numerals and white-gold applied trapeze-shaped hour markers. Designed as stylish companions to every facet of an active lifestyle, these Twenty~4 references 4910/1200A- 001 with a blue sunburst dial and 4910/1200A-010 with a gray sunburst dial stand out more than ever as paragons of timeless feminine elegance.

A new face for the Twenty~4, the Patek Philippe ladies

A new face for the Twenty~4, the Patek Philippe ladies

Since 1839, timepieces for women have always featured prominently in Patek Philippe’s collections – whether as the pocket watches or pendant watches of the nineteenth century or the wristwatches that first emerged in the early twentieth century. Several milestones in the manufacture’s history also relate to watches destined for women, such as the first true wristwatch made in Switzerland, created for a Hungarian countess in 1868, and the Geneva company’s very first striking wristwatch, a five-minute repeater housed in a small platinum case with an integrated chain bracelet in 1916.

A new face for the Twenty~4, the Patek Philippe ladies

A new face for the Twenty~4, the Patek Philippe ladies

A modern classic

In 1999, Patek Philippe strengthened its privileged links with feminine watch lovers by launching its first collection dedicated exclusively to women. The aim was to meet the demands of the independent active woman who sought a timepiece with an assertive personality able to adapt to her modern lifestyle. A watch of timeless elegance that would complement her fashionable business wear and most elegant evening wear. It would be her ally on every occasion, uniting contemporary design, technical excellence and impeccable craftsmanship.

Twenty~4, the Patek Philippe ladies

Twenty~4, the Patek Philippe ladies

Conceived, as its name suggested, for every hour of the day and night, at work, at home and during leisure activities, the new Twenty~4 stood out by its original art-deco-inspired “manchette” or cuff design, featuring a cambered rectangular case that followed the contours of a woman’s wrist and a metallic bracelet that felt exceptionally smooth and comfortable.

The first three Twenty~4 models of 1999 (references 4910/10A) were also distinguished by their pairing of steel with diamonds, an association unique at the time, with the precious stones set in two rows highlighting the rectangular shape of the two-tier case. The dials, adorned with the two applied Roman numerals XII and VI and diamond hour-markers, offered a choice of threecolors: “Forever Black”, “Eternal Gray” and “Timeless White”. An elegant modern advertising campaign marked the launch of this new women-only timepiece, with the slogan “Who will you be in the next 24 hours?” shining the spotlight on the watch’s versatility. The creation of the Twenty~4 strengthened women’s perception of Patek Philippe as a brand of direct relevance and appeal to them. It reminded them that the manufacture developed and built not only the most technically innovative and complex timepieces but those most aesthetically striking and refined.

Twenty~4, the Patek Philippe ladies

Twenty~4, the Patek Philippe ladies

A great success

Blessed with its strong identity and a design tailor-made to live the lives of modern discerning women, the Twenty~4 quartz “manchette” model was a great success from the start and has established itself in the last two decades as one of the manufacture’s best-sellers. Over the years it has appeared in rose gold and white gold, with other dial colors (brown and blue), in a small format complementing the medium-size models, on satin straps, in dazzling Haute Joaillerie versions (including two endowed with manually wound mechanical movements) and in a yellow-gold model without diamonds on the case. Now seen as epitomizing the classic modern style, the Twenty~4 has represented, for many women, their right of entry into the Patek Philippe universe. It has consolidated the manufacture’s position as a major player in the women’s watch market and paved the way for the expansion of other women’s lines, such as the Calatravas, as well as the complications that are useful in everyday situations (the Annual Calendar, the time-zone watches and the chronographs) and even the grand complications (perpetual calendar, split-seconds chronograph and minute repeater).

The time of the Twenty~4 Automatic

In 2018, Patek Philippe responded to women’s increasing interest in mechanical watches by launching the Twenty~4 Automatic. While its bracelet retains the same exclusive design, with the broad, gently cambered central links framed by delicate two-tier outer links, this Reference 7300, endowed with a caliber 324 S C self-winding movement, stands out from the quartz-driven “manchette” model by its round case, its bezel lit with a double row of diamonds in a “dentelle” (lacework) setting, and the applied Arabic numerals on the dial, these last providing a distinctly contemporary note. This model is available in steel and in rose gold, with a choice of dial colors, and in a jewelry version with gem-set crown, lugs and bracelet. Patek Philippe also produces an Haute Joaillerie model in rose gold, paved throughout with diamonds, showcasing the “random” or “snow” setting. The launch of this new incarnation of timeless feminine elegance was accompanied by an advertising campaign that excited widespread interest. It gave center stage to a “Twenty~4 woman”: independent, sure of her taste and making her own way in the world.

New Twenty~4 references 4910/1200A-001 & 4910/1200A-010

Patek Philippe is continuing the renewal of its Twenty~4 collection by reinterpreting the original model, the medium-size (25.1 x 30 mm) quartz “manchette” watch in steel. It is issuing two new versions in which the Roman numerals give way to the white-gold applied Arabic numerals 12 and 6 and the diamond hour markers are replaced by applied trapeze-shaped hour markers, also in white gold. This new face constitutes the first major change to the Twenty~4 of 1999 – and an aesthetic evolution in step with the design of the Twenty~4 Automatic. The two new references feature a dial decorated with a blue sunburst (4910/1200A-001) or with a gray sunburst enriched by a gradation to black at the periphery (4910/1200A-010). Their white-gold applied numerals and hour markers and white-gold baton-style hands all have a luminous coating ensuring excellent legibility in the dark. The fine grooved rays of the sunburst emanating from the center of the dial play with the light, lending a refined but dynamic touch.

The distinctive shape of the two-tier rectangular case is underlined by two rows of 18 Top Wesselton Pure diamonds (approx. 0.42 ct) set with textbook precision. A Calatrava Cross, emblem of the Patek Philippe manufacture, embellishes the crown. The supple, comfortable bracelet, fitted with a fold-over clasp, is a jewel in its own right. Each component is manually finished and fully polished. The Patek Philippe caliber E15 quartz movement is made with the same devotion to fine workmanship as the manufacture’s mechanical movements. The new references 4910/1200A-001 and 4910/1200A-010 with Arabic numerals replace the previous references 4910/10A-001, 4910/10A-010, 4910/10A-011 and 4910/10A-012 with Roman numerals.

“Rituals of my Life”

The launch of these two new Twenty~4 models is accompanied by a digital communication campaign addressing modern women sure of their taste, with an affinity for beauty and fine design. They are independent women, living life to the full, with a range of interests. Patek Philippe chose as central theme “Rituals of my Life”: the precious personal moments that punctuate the modern woman’s life – such as the finishing touches before an evening out; a pause for a moment’s serenity at sunrise; or the luxury of taking time for herself by reading a book or performing the movements that bring her physical and mental wellbeing. Essential, intimate moments that are part of a woman’s life today and that some choose to feature as scenes to be shared with friends on the social media. The slogan “Begin your own tradition” underlines the link with the famous Patek Philippe “Generations” campaign by inviting the Twenty~4 woman to begin a long-term relationship with a brand that shares her values. The images and videos work together with a film describing the creative philosophy behind the Twenty~4 collection: a model of timeless design that has become a modern classic and the gold standard for the “manchette” watch. All of which is set to strengthen Patek Philippe’s increasing success in the ladies’ watch segment and in the hearts of women for whom style and beauty must pass the test of time.

For more information about the new Twenty~4, please visit:
https://www.patek.com/en/company/news/introducing-the-new-twenty4

, , ,

Patek Philippe – Minute Repeater – 5303R-001

Patek Philippe reafirma su gran experiencia en complicaciones

Con el enriquecimiento de la colección actual por tres modelos: el nuevo Ref. 5303 como el primer repetidor de minutos Patek Philippe que presenta el mecanismo de golpe en el lado del dial, así como una reinterpretación de la legendaria Ref. 5370 Split-Seconds Chronograph y el clásico rediseñado Ref. 5270 Perpetual Calendar Chronograph: la fabricación de Ginebra una vez más aprovecha su virtuosismo en la clase de arte de la relojería del rey. Estos tres relojes representan una combinación perfecta de tradición e innovación. Junto con una hermosa delicadeza en apariencia y características, enriquecen la ya extensa gama de grandes complicaciones.

Patek Philippe – Minute Repeater – 5303R-001

Ya en 1839, cuando se fundó la empresa, uno de los primeros relojes elaborados en la fabricación fue un cuarto de repetidor que ahora se puede admirar en el Museo Patek Philippe de Ginebra. A medida que el siglo XIX continuó desarrollándose, Patek Philippe continuó con su pasión por las grandes complicaciones, creó muchos relojes de este tipo y recibió varias patentes por optimizaciones técnicas. En el siglo XX, la fabricación se ganó una reputación legendaria por los llamados relojes de bolsillo supercomplicados que se hicieron para los coleccionistas estadounidenses James Ward Packard y Henry Graves Jr. y presentaban funciones de repiqueteo y elaboradas pantallas astronómicas. Al mismo tiempo, Patek Philippe estuvo involucrado en miniaturizar las grandes complicaciones para que pudieran usarse en la muñeca, como lo demostró en 1925 el primer reloj de pulsera conocido con un calendario perpetuo. En las últimas décadas del siglo XX, el fabricante volvió a celebrar un hito en esta excepcional categoría de relojes y presentó dos relojes de bolsillo que el mundo nunca había visto antes: el Calibre 89 (33 complicaciones) que sería el reloj mecánico portátil más complicado del mundo. durante 25 años, y el Star Calibre 2000 con 21 complicaciones. En 2001, el arte de miniaturizar mecanismos altamente elaborados encontró su máxima expresión con el lanzamiento del Sky Moon Tourbillon (12 complicaciones) y, posteriormente, en 2014, con el Grandmaster Chime que con 20 complicaciones se convertiría en el reloj de pulsera más complicado de Patek Philippe.

Una filosofía especialmente desafiante

Hoy, Patek Philippe tiene una de las colecciones más completas de grandes complicaciones producidas regularmente, que incluyen repetidores de minutos con calendarios perpetuos, relojes astronómicos, relojes con tourbillons y modelos que combinan varias de estas funciones altamente codiciadas. Como resultado de la transferencia de conocimientos de una generación a la siguiente y respaldada por los resultados de investigaciones de alto nivel, estos relojes siguen dos principios fundamentales que son muy importantes para Patek Philippe Una de ellas es enfrentar el desafío de acomodar un máximo de complejidad técnica en un volumen mínimo (altura y diámetro más pequeños posibles), lo que permite el diseño de cajas muy delgadas que proyectan una elegancia intemporal. En segundo lugar, cada complicación, sin importar cuán elaborada sea, debe ser simple de operar para el usuario y ser un modelo a seguir de conveniencia, integridad funcional y legibilidad. Las tres grandes complicaciones de 2020 ilustran esta filosofía de manera muy convincente. Encarnan un nivel de artesanía que hace de cada Patek Philippe una valiosa obra de arte.

Árbitro. 5303R-001 Minute Repeater Una extravagancia para ojos y oídos

Desde que hizo su primer reloj de bolsillo con un repetidor de minutos (1845), Patek Philippe se ha establecido como uno de los intérpretes talentosos de la música de la época. Este notable conocimiento se destaca incluso en las creaciones más extraordinarias, como el reloj de pulsera Sky Moon Tourbillon con un repetidor de minutos con gongs de la catedral o el Patek Philippe Grandmaster Chime con cinco funciones de repiqueteo que incluyen dos debuts mundiales patentados. La fabricación también ofrece la más amplia selección de repetidores de minutos producidos regularmente, relojes con gongs clásicos o de catedral y modelos con un repetidor de minutos con o sin complicaciones adicionales (calendario perpetuo, tourbillon, hora mundial, cronógrafo). Pero nunca antes Patek Philippe había creado un repetidor de minutos con un mecanismo de golpe que era visible en el lado del dial.

La referencia. El 5303 se presentó en 2019 en una edición limitada de 12 relojes como debut mundial con motivo de la “Watch Art Grand Exhibition Singapore 2019”.
Ahora, una versión ligeramente modificada de la Ref. 5303 Minute Repeater Tourbillon se ha convertido en parte de la colección actual de Patek Philippe. Esta nueva complicación para los entusiastas de los relojes repetidores se destaca con su arquitectura abierta sin un dial convencional. El mecanismo repetidor, por primera vez con los martillos y gongs, se puede admirar en acción sin quitar el reloj de la muñeca. Esta es una expresión más de la filosofía de desarrollo centrada en el cliente de Patek Philippe. El aspecto de transparencia también se aplica al tourbillon: la parte posterior de su jaula se puede ver debajo del subdial de segundos a las 6 en punto. En esta composición verdaderamente perfecta, las piezas de acero filigranado brillan contra el telón de fondo de la placa dorada rosa.

La estética del calibre de cuerda manual R TO 27 PS se modificó sutilmente para enfatizar su atractivo. Por ejemplo, ciertos componentes fueron perforados, como es común en los movimientos esqueletizados. Por supuesto, Patek Philippe también movilizó su herencia en el acabado manual de piezas de movimiento: decoró la placa con grano circular de Ginebra, aplicó un delicado perlado a los huecos y decoró los martillos con un acabado circular satinado.

La inimitable caja de oro rosa luce un bisel ancho, curvado y pulido, así como incrustaciones de oro blanco con grabados de follaje que adornan la correa de la caja y las orejetas. La diapositiva de oro blanco en el costado izquierdo de la caja que activa el repetidor de minutos presenta el mismo motivo. El círculo horario es un borde de cristal de zafiro lacado en negro con marcadores de oro rosa en polvo. El movimiento se puede admirar a través del fondo de la caja de cristal de zafiro y está enmarcado por un borde de oro blanco. Su decoración abierta hace eco de las incrustaciones de la caja y el deslizador del repetidor.
Esta fantástica lección de arte relojero, elegancia y acabado manual se complementa con el sonido único que es típico de los relojes repetidores Patek Philippe. Como es el caso de cada repetidor de minutos Patek Philippe, esta melodía del tiempo es calificada personalmente con gran cuidado por el presidente de fabricación Thierry Stern.

Ref. 5370P-011 Split-Seconds Chronograph A new face with a blue Grand Feu enamel dial

Apart from the minute repeater and the tourbillon, the triad at the pinnacle of the most elaborate horological complications also includes the split-seconds chronograph (movement No. 124’824); since 1923, it occupies a preferential position in Patek Philippe’s wristwatch collection. The Ref. 5370, the first split-seconds chronograph endowed with the proprietary caliber CHR 29-535 PS was launched in 2015 with a platinum case and a black enamel dial. Coveted by connoisseurs, this grand complication has now been subtly upgraded with a new blue face with glossy finish that reflects Patek Philippe’s proud tradition in Grand Feu enamel dials. It is an oeuvre of unmatched chromatic intensity that is made by hand on the basis of an 18K gold dial plate.

The dial is superbly legible as befits an instrument with a decidedly technical personality. The hours and minutes are tracked by slender leaf-shaped hands with luminous coatings and applied Breguet numerals in white gold. The results of short-time measurements are readable with the same precision and speed: the sweep chronograph and rattrapante hands as well as the instantaneous 30-minute counter hand contrast as clearly against the blue dial as do the white-printed scales.

The two-phase chronograph movement with two pushers for the chronograph functions and a rattrapante pusher integrated in the crown at 3 o’clock is an impressive example of how tradition meets innovation. The classic elements of the basic architecture are the manual winder, dual-column-wheel control, and the horizontal wheel clutch. Nonetheless, it is a 21st- century movement endowed with extensive optimization details and patented innovations as well as an advanced rattrapante mechanism.

The elegant polished platinum case with a concave bezel and satin-finished flank recesses is worn on an alligator strap in shiny night blue secured by a platinum fold-over clasp.
As is the case with all of Patek Philippe’s platinum wristwatches, the new Ref. 5370P-011 is graced with a small diamond between the lugs at 6 o’clock. It replaces its predecessor with the black enamel dial, presenting a new combination of superb craftsmanship and watchmaking artistry.

Árbitro. 5270J-001 Perpetual Calendar Chronograph Un clásico majestuoso con una nueva personalidad de oro amarillo.

Como heredero del gran clásico de Patek Philippe de 1941 (Ref. 1518), el Ref. El 5270 Perpetual Calendar Chronograph ha estado disponible desde 2018 en platino con una esfera dorada opalina y una versión de oro rosa con un brazalete dorado estilo “goutte”. Ahora, la fabricación está extendiendo su colección regular de esta gran complicación por el Ref. 5270, revestido en oro amarillo por primera vez. Es un atuendo muy elegante para este reloj atemporal que combina un bisel cóncavo con orejetas de dos niveles.

La esfera opalina plateada con índices de bastón aplicados y agujas en forma de hoja en oro amarillo asegura una excelente legibilidad. Las pantallas del calendario perpetuo están equilibradas con una fecha analógica a las 6 en punto y una apertura doble para el día y el mes a las 12 en punto. Se complementan con dos pequeñas aberturas redondas para el indicador de día / noche y el ciclo de año bisiesto, así como la típica ventana de fase lunar.

El calibre CH 29-535 PS Q es el primer movimiento cronógrafo con un calendario perpetuo desarrollado en 2011 y fabricado en su totalidad por Patek Philippe. Combina la arquitectura tradicional (embrague horizontal, rueda de columna y bobinadora manual) con seis innovaciones patentadas para las funciones del cronógrafo y se destaca con su mecanismo de calendario extremadamente delgado (1,65 mm para 182 piezas). El movimiento se puede admirar a través del fondo de la caja de cristal de zafiro. Un sólido respaldo en oro amarillo de 18 quilates es parte del alcance de la entrega.

La nueva Ref. 5270J-001 se usa en una correa de cocodrilo marrón chocolate cosida a mano con grandes escamas cuadradas aseguradas con un cierre plegable de oro amarillo. Se une a los modelos anteriores de platino y oro rosa para acomodar las preferencias individuales de los aficionados a las grandes complicaciones de Patek Philippe.

, , , , , , , ,

Rolex, Patek Philippe, Chanel, Chopard y Tudor abandonan Baselworld

La Foundation de la Haute Horlogerie anuncia en su último comunicado que cinco de los pilares de Baselworld abandonan la feria.

Teníamos claro que este momento tan turbulento que nos ha tocado vivir iba a tener consecuencias importantes en la industria de la relojería. Pero pocos esperaban un bombazo de tanta envergadura como el que ha anunciado la Foundation de la Haute Horlogerie en su último comunicado, en relación con Baselworld.

Rolex, Patek Philippe, Chanel, Chopard y Tudor los pilares fundamentales de Baselworld, la que ha sido durante décadas la mayor feria de la relojería del mundo, dejarán de participar y crearán una nueva feria relojera en Ginebra, con la Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie. Esta nueva feria celebrará su primera edición en abril del 2021 y estará vinculada a la feria internacional Watches and Wonders que se celebra en Ginebra y Miami.

La Baselworld es la mayor feria de relojería del mundo en la que se dan cita las grandes casas relojeras

Baselworld se queda sin sus grandes marcas y pilares

La salida de estas grandes marcas puede suponer el golpe definitivo para Baselworld, quien teniendo la oportunidad de escuchar a sus clientes no lo hizo. Y aunque este es un defecto muy común en una industria que a veces se cree por encima del bien y del mal, en esta ocasión las decisiones unilaterales tomadas sin consulta por la administración de Baselworld, incluida la postergación del programa de observación hasta enero de 2021, así como la incapacidad para satisfacer las necesidades y expectativas de la marcas, ha hecho que sus grandes pilares la dejen sustentada tan solo por el grupo LVMH, el cual ya dijo que no estaba seguro de si continuará formando parte de Baselworld en futuro.

La nueva feria dirigida principalmente a detallistas, prensa y clientes, tiene el objetivo de ofrecer a las marcas la mejor plataforma profesional, aplicando una visión compartida para enfrentar con éxito los desafíos futuros en la industria relojera.

Rolex anuncia su retirada de Baselworld

Las declaraciones de Jean-Frédéric Dufour, director ejecutivo de Rolex SA, confirman que la decisión está tomada: «Hemos participado en Baselworld desde 1939. Desafortunadamente, dada la forma en la que ha evolucionado el evento y las recientes decisiones tomadas por el Grupo MCH y, a pesar del gran apego que teníamos con este programa, hemos decidido retirarnos. Después de las discusiones iniciadas por Rolex, parecía natural crear un nuevo evento con socios que compartan nuestra visión y nuestro apoyo«.

Patek Philippe apuesta por la modernidad

Por otro lado, Thierry Stern, presidente de Patek Philippe dijo: «La decisión de abandonar Baselworld no fue fácil para mí, ya que es la cuarta generación de la familia Stern en participar en este evento anual tradicional. Pero la vida evoluciona constantemente, las cosas cambian y las personas también cambian, ya sea a nivel de los responsables de la organización de la feria del reloj, las marcas o los clientes. Tenemos que adaptarnos constantemente, cuestionar lo que hacemos, ya que lo que fue correcto ayer puede no ser necesariamente válido hoy».

«Hoy, Patek Philippe ya no está en línea con la visión de Baselworld, han habido demasiadas discusiones y problemas sin resolver, la confianza ya no está presente. Necesitamos responder a las necesidades legítimas de nuestros minoristas, los clientes y la prensa de todo el mundo. Deben poder descubrir los nuevos modelos de los relojeros suizos cada año, al mismo tiempo, en un solo lugar, y esto de la manera más profesional posible. Por eso, después de varias discusiones con Rolex y de acuerdo con otras marcas participantes, hemos decidido crear, todos juntos, un evento único en Ginebra, representativo de nuestro savoir-faire«.

Por su parte, el presidente de Patek Philippe, Thierry Stern, expresó: “La decisión de abandonar Baselworld no fue fácil para mí, pero la vida evoluciona constantemente, las cosas cambian y las personas también cambian.”

Jerome Lambert, director ejecutivo del grupo de lujo suizo Richemont, pieza clave en la organización de W&W, estaba “encantado de dar la bienvenida a un nuevo salón que fortalecerá a Watches & Wonders en Ginebra el próximo año a principios de abril”.

 

, , , ,

PATEK PHILIPPE – GRANDMASTER CHIME

Patek Philippe, Alta relojería Patek

 

, , , , ,

WATCH ART GRAND EXHIBITION SINGAPORE 2019

patek_philippe_watch_art_grand_exhibition_singapore_2019_01

Después de Dubái, Múnich, Londres y Nueva York, la Watch Art Grand Exhibition Singapore 2019 -la exposición más grande jamás organizada por Patek Philippe¬– alcanzó un éxito sin precedentes. Se albergó en el Marina Bay Sands Theater y estuvo abierta al público del 28 de septiembre al 13 de octubre de 2019. El evento atrajo a 68.000 visitantes en 16 días.

Los coleccionistas, los apasionados de la Alta Relojería y el público en general se sumergieron en el universo de Patek Philippe como si estuvieran visitando los salones históricos de la Rue du Rhône de Ginebra, la manufactura de Plan-les-Ouates y el Patek Philippe Museum.

La exposición reunió 467 piezas, de las cuales 119 fueron prestadas por el Patek Philippe Museum, además de una selección de creaciones reunidas en un espacio dedicado en el Sudeste Asiático. Una ocasión única de descubrir los bastidores de la última manufactura ginebrina independiente en manos de una familia

WATCH ART GRAND EXHIBITION SINGAPORE 2019

WATCH ART GRAND EXHIBITION SINGAPORE 2019

WATCH ART GRAND EXHIBITION SINGAPORE 2019

, , , , , ,

COLLECIONISMO: RELOJES – PATEK PHILIPPE & CO., GENEVA, SUBASTA EN SOTHEBY’S

PATEK PHILIPPE & CO., GENEVA, REFERENCE 989, MOVEMENT NO. 844000, CASE NO. 2839425, STARTED IN 1980 AND COMPLETED IN 1989 TO COMMEMORATE PATEK PHILIPPE’S 150TH JUBILEE ANNIVERSARY

A yellow gold, double dialled and double open faced, minute repeating, grande and petite sonnerie clockwatch with Westminster chimes, split seconds chronograph, registers for 60-minutes and 12-hours, perpetual calendar, retrograde date, indications for century, leap year cycle, seasons, second time zone, date of Easter, astrological indications, moon phases, equation of time, dual power reserve for striking and going trains, mean and sidereal time, alarm, temperature, indications for times of sunrise/sunset and a celestial chart for the night time sky over Geneva, Switzerland at 46° 11’ 59” minutes north latitudeAccompanied by the original Patek Philippe fitted wood box with a plaque engraved, ‘Calibre 89’. Together with a Patek Philippe Portfolio with Extract from the Archives confirming the date of manufacture in 1989, with outer presentation slip case, gold corrector and gold key.reloj
http://www.sothebys.com/en/auctions/ecatalogue/2017/important-watches-ge1701/lot.171.html

READ CONDITION REPORT SALEROOM NOTICE

PROVENANCE

Antiquorum, Geneva, April 1989, The Art of Patek Philippe, lot 301The Matsuda Collection, Tokyo

Antiquorum, Geneva, November 2009, Celebrating 35 Years of Making History in Time, lot 364

Property of a Private Collector

EXHIBITED

Tiffany & Co., New York, March 7–10, 1989 and Beverly Hills, March 14–15, 1989

LITERATURE

Martin Huber and Alan Banbery, Patek Philippe, Geneva, 1993 (2nd ed.), pp. 274–286Alan Downing and René Bittel, Voyage to the End of Time, Geneva, 1989

Nicholas Foulkes, Patek Philippe: The Authorized Biography, London, 2016, pp. 321–355

slider-logos5

CATALOGUE NOTE

IN THE COURSE OF PATEK PHILIPPE’S DISTINGUISHED HISTORY, THE FIRM HAS CREATED MANY EXTRAORDINARY WATCHES THAT HAVE CHALLENGED THE WAY WE THINK ABOUT TIMEPIECES.  AMONGST THE MANY COMPLICATED AND SIGNIFICANT TIMEPIECES EVER CREATED, THE CALIBRE 89 HAS REDEFINED THE FIELD OF HOROLOGY DUE TO THE INGENUITY OF ITS CREATORS.  IT IS AN HONOUR TO OFFER THE CALIBRE 89, THE MOST COMPLICATED WATCH OF THE 20TH CENTURY, AND PATEK PHILIPPE’S MOST COMPLICATED MASTERPIECE TO DATE. 

Philippe Stern: A Declaration of Independence

 Throughout its 178 years as a master watchmaking firm, Patek Philippe has created an abundance of extraordinary watches, challenging the way consumers think about timepieces. Among the most complicated and significant watches ever created, the Calibre 89 not only represents Patek Philippe’s unrivaled position at the apex of horology, but it also illustrates the firm’s unwavering belief in the superiority of the mechanical watch. Made at a time when the impact of the quartz crisis was still reverberating through the Swiss watch industry, the Calibre 89 is an affirmation of the unsurpassable genius of the watchmaker’s art. With 33 complications, the Calibre 89 remains Patek Philippe’s most complicated watch.

 While the Swiss watch industry underwent profound advances and changes, Honorary President, (then Vice President and Managing Director) Philippe Stern, boldly faced the challenges of the modern world with a new manifesto. Under Stern, the company published a brochure titled A Declaration of Independence in 1974. Patek Philippe reaffirmed its integrity as a family-owned business and reassured its retail partners of its commitment to excellence in the face of the mass-produced and easily accessible quartz watch.

 Stern’s challenge was to push Patek Philippe into the modern world while retaining the venerable culture on which its success and reputation originated. The company’s new approach to marketing and innovation redefined Patek Philippe in the final two decades of the twentieth century.  Changes in socioeconomic status and consumer culture paved the way for a new type of consumer with very high spending power but little knowledge of traditional and bespoke brands such as Patek Philippe.  Stern wisely targeted this deficit through an aggressive and cohesive marketing strategy.

 “Our marketing objective is to make Patek Philippe known as the best watch. We have to look after this new clientele and point out to them that Patek Philippe stands for original watchmaking that is above fashion and trends, and also something that is not an industrial product.” (Philippe Stern in Nicholas Foulkes, Patek Philippe: The Authorized Biography, 2016, p. 338)

 The Calibre 89 was devised during a discussion beD

Secular Calendar and Leap Year:  The Perpetual Calendar shows the correct day of the week, date of the month and month of the year regardless of the length of the month, it also adjusts for the leap year.  Since the duration of a Solar year is 365 days, 5 hours, 48 minutes and 46 seconds, an extra day is added every four years (leap year).  According to the Gregorian Calendar reforms of 1582, only century years that are divisible by 400 without remainder are considered leap years.  Unlike the Graves, the Calibre 89 compensates for this, thus it will not count the years 2100, 2200 and 2300 as leap years.

The aperture immediately to the right of the year indication displays the leap year cycle from 1-4..

Year Indication: The year indication appears in an aperture right under the winding-crown-position indicator.  A metal disk has the numerals for centuries up to the 27th century.

Mechanism to halt chime: Two mainspring barrels in the first tier of the movement power the chime and the alarm.  The chime consists of four gongs, and is regulated by a centrifugal governor.  When the repeater is in use, it can run down the mainspring in the barrel that powers the chime.  If the watch is set to chime in passing, a blocking mechanism stops the Grand Strike or Small Strike before the mainspring of the chimes completely runs down.

Winding-Crown position indicator: The Winding Crown position indicator is also unique to the Calibre 89.  Placed towards the top of the mean solar time dial, it indicates the different positions at which the winding crown must be at in order to set specific functions of the watch.  Position R to wind the movement and the chime, Position A to set astronomical calendar and the alarm, Position B to set sidereal time and mean solar time.

The Mean Time Dial

Cream dial, applied yellow gold Breguet numerals, outer track for minutes with red five minute divisions, double-sunk subsidiary dials for 30-minute and 12-hour registers combined with power reserve indications for going and striking trains respectively, further double-sunk subsidiary dial for constant seconds and temperature combined with moon-phases, retrograde date, apertures for day, month, year, and leap year indication, crown position indicator, yellow gold Breguet hour and minute hands, blued steel Breguet hand for second time zone, blued steel split second hands, blued steel triangular alarm indicator, hands for temperature and power reserve indications, blued steel hands for subsidiary seconds and chronograph minute/hour registers

1. Winding-Crown-Position Indicator

2. Century Decade and Year

3. Leap Year Indication

4. Split Seconds

5. Seconds in Meantime

6. Power Reserve for Movement

7. 30-Minute Register

8. Month

9. Second Time Zone

10. Constant Seconds

11. Moon-Phases

12. Temperature °C

13. Day

14. Power Reserve for Chime

15. Alarm

16. Hours in Meantime

17. 12-Hour Register

18. Date

The Sidereal Dial

White dial, painted gold Arabic numerals calibrated for 24 hours, inner minute track, subsidiary dials for sunrise, sunset and sidereal seconds combined with the equation of time, outermost ring for seasons, solstice and equinox indications, zodiac, and months, blued steel feuille hands for hours and minutes, blued steel hand for indicating date of Easter, yellow gold sun-tipped hand indicating to outer rings, blued steel hands for sunrise/sunset and subsidiary seconds, gold hand for equation of time, large aperture revealing the celestial chart surrounded with the cardinal points, the celestial disc composed of corundum sapphire crystal marked with 2,800 distinct gilt stars in five sizes according to their orders of magnitude, on the reverse side of the transparent disc with applied fine gold dust representing the Milky Way, the whole night sky for the horizon at the latitude of Geneva, Switzerland, 46 ° 11’ 59” North

1. Month

2. Signs of the Zodiac

3. Seasons

4. Minutes in Sidereal time

5. Celestial Chart over Geneva, Switzerland

6. Time of Sunset

7. Constant Seconds in Sidereal Time

8. Solstice

9. Sun Hand

10. Equation of Time

11. Time of Sunrise

12. Equinox

13. Hours in Sidereal Time

14. Date of Easter

The movement of the Calibre 89 is composed of four separate tiers on three plates. The plates are made of the alloy maillechort, more commonly referred to as German silver. Within the movement are three mainspring barrels, powering the main functions of the watch and calendar, the alarm, and the repeat function respectively. The multi-tiered construction not only allows the watch to convey all the information of its 33 complications to the dial, but also allows the configuration of the dials to retain symmetry and attractive proportions.

 The Movement

Tier 1

Containing the chime, alarm, power reserve for the movement and repeater, and 12-hour register.

 Tier 2

Containing the mean-time, tourbillon, chronograph function and 30-minute register.

 Tier 3

Containing the functions of the sidereal dial including the sidereal time, star chart, seasons, solstices and equinoxes, Zodiac calendar, equation of time, sunrise and sunset.

 Tier 4

Containing the functions of the perpetual calendar including the month, day and date, moon phases, second time zone, and the one non-horological function, the thermometer.

The Case

The classic bassine case of the Calibre 89 was made in house by Patek Philippe. It is cut from three pieces of 18 carat yellow gold, and consists of a central case band that supports the plates of the movement, the band fitted with a slide at the crown, engraved CL (Cadran Légal) and CS (Cadran sidéral), slide for strike/ silent engraved S/O, for slide for petite sonnerie and grande sonnerie engraved GS/PS, repeat slide at 6 o’clock, one large slide for winding of the alarm, with two bezels on which the crystals are installed to protect the dials. Two corundum sapphire crystals are fitted atop each dial which is scratch resistant against virtually every common material, except diamond. The case boasts a massive diameter of 88.2 mm, 41.07 mm total thickness including the crystals, and, including the movement, weighs a total of 1,100 grams (2 lb, 43 oz). The case itself weighs an impressive 500 grams, twice the weight of the Henry Graves Supercomplication.

With such an enormous number of complications co-existing within one finely tuned case, even the simplest of functions and configurations were put to the test and met with challenges. The winding-crown-position indicator is a simple function where a needle points to one of the three positions to which the winding-crown is set to perform certain tasks. However, as the complication was developed and ordered after the entire watch had been designed, fitting this otherwise simple function was nearly impossible without the perfecting eye of Patek Philippe’s, Jean-Pierre Musy and Paul Buclin.