, , , , , , , ,

Vacheron Constantin – High Watchmaking: Astronomical watches

Vacheron Constantin

High Watchmaking: Astronomical watches

  • Horology stems from the observation and study of the stars dating right back to the earliest ancient civilisations
  • Twenty years after its foundation in 1755, the first watches with astronomical indications appeared at Vacheron Constantin.
  • The Manufacture has developed a rare breed of expertise in Grand Complication watches dedicated to the movement and influence of the moon, stars and planets.

Geneva, November 17th 2021 – Horology, the science of time measurement, was born from the observations of heavenly bodies and natural cycles. The mechanical instruments developed by horologists stem from these observations, reflecting an art that has continued to progress since the late Middle Ages. Founded in 1755, Vacheron Constantin developed a perfect mastery of astronomical indications at a very early stage, progressively enriching it over the two and a half centuries of the Manufacture’s existence. Today, the Maison produces watchmaking masterpieces of great astronomical complexity.

Astronomical watches remind us of the origins of watchmaking. Born of the observation of the great physical laws of Nature, the measurement of time is in fact a material extrapolation of the movement of the stars and cycles. This mechanically translated interpretation has given rise across the ages to timepieces capable of offering a wide variety of functions, and of varying degrees of complexity, linked to the singularities of the Gregorian calendar, to the various temporalities governing our universe, or to the motion of heavenly bodies and their impact on the Earth. Although many of these functions are not of practical use, they nonetheless testify to expertise that is all the rarer in that it lends a cosmological dimension to these watches forming a link between humankind and the universe. From its earliest days, Vacheron Constantin has shown great interest in watches with astronomical functions, including various types of calendar displays and indications of the phases and age of the Moon, often combined with other horological complications. Since the 2000s, this technical mastery has been illustrated in particular through its Les Cabinotiers department, whose astronomical watches are masterpieces of their kind.

Astronomical functions

The astronomical functions of a wristwatch include indications related to the particularities of the Gregorian calendar, as well as a wide variety of displays related to the movement of the stars. In addition to the main functions listed below, the most complex of them may offer a system for predicting lunar and solar eclipses, the position of the stars as seen from the Earth, displays of the ephemerides (solstices, equinoxes, seasons), the signs of the zodiac, a tideograph, sunrise and sunset, the duration of day and night, the annual deviation or angular movement of the Moon, etc. All this bearing in mind that a good number of these functions are valid exclusively for a given location. The most “common” astronomical watches include one or more of the following indications.

  • Calendars

A simple calendar watch is a watch that, in addition to the time, provides calendar information – usually the date – but whose mechanism does not automatically keep step with the irregularity of successive months. When such a calendar also provides indications including the day of the week, phases of the moon and even the year, it is called a complete calendar. This type of complication requires five adjustments per year. Unlike a simple calendar, an annual calendar automatically takes into account the irregularity of 30- or 31-day months, except for February, meaning that manual adjustment is required on March 1st each year. A perpetual calendar, on the other hand, indicates calendar functions such as the date, month and day of the week, taking into account months with 28, 30 or 31 days, as well as leap years.

  • Moon phases

The moon-phase indication is frequently associated with the perpetual calendar. It serves to reproduce the cycle of Earth’s satellite (new Moon, first quarter, full Moon, last quarter) on the watch dial. The phases of the Moon should not be confused with the age of the Moon which indicates the time (in days) elapsed since the last new Moon.

  • Equation of time

The equation of time is defined by the difference between solar time – or true time – and civil time – or mean time. The former is the time as shown on a sundial, while the latter is the time displayed on a watch. The difference between the two ranges from -16 minutes to +14 minutes and occurs during the course of the year, due to the Earth’s elliptical orbit and the tilt of its axis.

  • Sidereal time

The time it takes for the Earth to complete one full spin on its axis (360°) is 23 hours, 56 minutes, 4 seconds, and is called the sidereal day. Because of the Earth’s revolution around the Sun and its rotation on its own axis, the solar day – the time difference between two passages of the Sun through the zenith point (meridian) – lasts a few extra minutes. Using a fixed star in the sky instead of the Sun as a reference point, this sidereal time is used as a basis for astronomical observations.

  • Sky map

The sky chart is a planispherical representation on a disc or dial of the sky at a given location on the globe. This surface is rotated at a rate of one revolution per year – thereby offering a ‘snapshot’ of the sky at a given time – or of one revolution per sidereal day, which provides a view of the sky in real time.

Advanced mechanics

The perpetual calendar is often considered one of horology’s finest gems for its ability to display the exact date for an all but infinite duration (with the exception of secular years not divisible by 400), taking into account the variable length of the months and the leap-year cycle. To accomplish this mechanical feat, the movement must have a “memory” of 1,461 days, equivalent to four years. The essential component of these mechanisms is the month cam on which the different monthly durations are programmed. Equation of time mechanisms are also governed by a cam – which is in this case asymmetrical, performs one revolution in a year and features a shape derived from the analemma.

This results in a one-day discrepancy for this type of mechanism that must be corrected every 2 years and 7 months. Watches with a precision moon-phase display have a wheel with 135 teeth. With this system, the deviation from the lunar cycle is reduced to one day every 122 years. Another astral representation is the rotating sky chart, of which the visible part corresponding to the skyline is delimited by an ellipse, and which generally makes one revolution in one day in order to offer a vision of the sky in real time.

This rotation is calculated according to sidereal time, which is 3 minutes and 56 seconds shorter than the average day. Technically, the simplest solution consists of integrating two kinetic chains in the movement, from the barrel to the regulating organ, the first beating at the mean solar time rate of one revolution in 24 hours and the second at the slightly faster sidereal time rate of one revolution in 23 hours, 56 minutes and 4 seconds.

Astronomical paternity

The appearance of megalithism around 5000 BC owes nothing to chance. These thousands of precisely oriented stone monuments – of which one of the best-known is the circle of menhirs at Stonehenge – are regarded as the first astronomical observatories. It was however not until around 4200 BC that these first observations took on a more scientific nature, when the birth of writing played a decisive role by making it possible to record events, perform calculations, establish chronologies and make forecasts. Writing appeared in Mesopotamia, and gradually became established in Egypt in the following century – and then some 2,000 years later in China and the Mayan Empire. Each great civilisation then set about developing its own calendar based on the visible movement of the Sun or the Moon, or both.

It was the Mesopotamians, around 2400 BC, who invented a common unit of measurement for calculating distances and time, which is still the basis of our sexagesimal system of degrees of angle and minutes today. This spatialisation of time was decisive when it came to sequencing it according to the course of the stars. The development of mechanical engineering, which already emerged at the time of Aristotle, was thus able to give shape to the counting of time and its astronomical dimension. As soon as the first clocks appeared in the 13th and 14th centuries, mechanical horologists set out to reproduce on dials the movements of the solar system’s main planets. The pocket watches of the Renaissance were direct heirs to these large astronomical clocks. Well before the invention of the minutes hand, these watches already indicated the time, the date, the days of the week, the months and their duration, the moon phases and the signs of the zodiac. These astronomical watches, which were very popular in the 17th century, are still considered to be models of their kind today.

From that time onwards, ingenious watchmakers redoubled their efforts to make their mechanisms more accurate – resulting in the appearance of minutes and then seconds hands – and more compact. This miniaturisation naturally made it difficult to depict certain astronomical functions, except for the date and its most sophisticated perpetual calendar interpretation, accompanied by a moon-phase display. As of the 19th century, any Grand Complication watch had to incorporate a mechanism capable of following the irregularities of the Gregorian calendar. At that time, some exceptional pocket watches also reproduced celestial mechanics by displaying the equation of time, sunrise and sunset times or sidereal time. These functions can be found in the highly complicated timepieces of the first half of the 20th century. The advent of the wristwatch, however, put a stop to these technical masterpieces – while nonetheless not provoking their complete disappearance. Since the revival of the mechanical watch at the end of the 1980s, the astronomical watch has enjoyed a clear resurgence in interest and currently represents a supreme demonstration of expertise.

 

Vacheron Constantin and calendar watches

The first mention of a pocket watch in Vacheron Constantin’s records dates back to a period prior to 1773, i.e. the early years of the workshop founded by Jean-Marc Vacheron in 1755. A decade later, the range of complications developed under the leadership of Jean-Marc’s son Abraham Vacheron, notably exemplified by the first complete calendar dating from 1785 and appearing on a brass dial with a floral motif. The archives of the Maison accurately retrace this progressive mastery of astronomical complications, beginning in 1829 with the first recorded order for a watch featuring a simple calendar and moon phases, and again in 1884 for a perpetual calendar integrated into a double-sided yellow gold pocket watch now belonging to Vacheron Constantin’s private collection. This achievement marked the beginning of an epic mechanical saga that was to take on greater significance at the turn of the century.

As early as 1900, the company set up a workshop exclusively dedicated to the assembly of watches with complications, and orders poured in for complicated and even very complicated watches. The perpetual calendar was thus combined with other technical feats, as in this 1901 pink gold pocket watch incorporating a minute repeater, chronograph and perpetual calendar with phases and age of the moon. This masterpiece of mechanical artistry typifying Grand Complication watches prefigures the historic golden age of complicated watches at Vacheron Constantin. An era that culminated in the 1920s and 1930s, notably with the astronomical pocket watch made in 1929 for King Fouad I of Egypt. This masterful timepiece combines a split-seconds chronograph, a perpetual calendar, a minute repeater and a Grande and Petite Sonnerie mechanism.

The heyday of the perpetual calendar

Throughout most of the 20th century, Vacheron Constantin remained faithful to its classic and elegant approach to horological complications, including the perpetual calendar in pocket watches until the 1960s. These decades were thus punctuated by a number of exceptional creations, including this gold pocket watch from 1946 with minute repeater, chronograph and perpetual calendar displaying the phases and age of the moon. Elegance was notably expressed by models featuring impressive slimness made possible by their thin movements. In 1955, Vacheron Constantin had already presented its manual-winding Calibre 1003, which was barely 1.64 mm thick, a real feat. Some 12 years later, the company achieved a new feat – this time in the field of self-winding movements – with its Calibre 1120 measuring 2.45 mm thick. It was this specific movement, skeletonised for the occasion, that served as the basis for the first perpetual calendar (Calibre 1120 QP) housed in an ultra-thin wristwatch introduced by Vacheron Constantin in 1983.

While complete calendars, triple calendars with moon phases and retrograde calendar indications are part of the grand traditions of the Maison, the perpetual calendar remains one of its preferred complications, currently interpreted in the Patrimony, Traditionnelle and Overseas collections. This inclination has notably been reflected in a major new model presented in 2019 with the Traditionnelle Twin Beat perpetual calendar . With its two going trains operating at different rhythms, the watch can be slowed down to a “resting position” ensuring at least 65 days of power reserve. In its “classic” version, the perpetual calendar also remains a basic function of grand complication mechanisms, an unchanging tradition at Vacheron Constantin. In recent years, the Manufacture has distinguished itself with timepieces whose complexity has become an art in itself, such as the Tour de l’île with its 16 watchmaking and astronomical complications, produced in 2005 for the 250th anniversary of the Maison. Ten years later, for its 260th anniversary, Vacheron Constantin presented another timepiece destined to make watchmaking history, the Reference 57260 and its 57 complications, making this one-of-a-kind model the most complicated watch in the world.

Astronomy at its peak

At Vacheron Constantin, mastery of astronomical functions is by no means confined to calendar functions. In the world of pocket watches, the Manufacture responded at an early stage to specific requests from customers and collectors who were particularly sensitive to this dimension of watchmaking. In 1890, for example, at the request of a Parisian client, the Manufacture created a watch indicating sidereal time. Some 20 years later, the company archives mention a movement blank designed to power a display of true solar time, associated with a simple calendar as well as sunrise and sunset indications. The year 1919 was also marked by the delivery of a perpetual calendar movement with moon phases, sunrise and sunset and retrograde equation of time, a true mechanical rarity. This tradition of astronomical indications based on the course of the stars – which been put on hold for a time due to the miniaturisation requirements of the wristwatch – has made a major comeback in the Maison’s collections since the powerful late 20th century craze for mechanical watches and has been further strengthened since the creation of the Les Cabinotiers department.

Responsible for special orders and exceptional creations for the Maison in the form of one-of-a-kind timepieces, this department has produced veritable masterpieces in the field of astronomical watches with highly sophisticated complications. Among these is the Celestia Astronomical grand complication 3600 (2017) and its 23 functions inspired by astronomy, including a reading of civil, solar and sidereal time. This same reading is found on the Astronomical striking grand complication – Ode to music (2020) and its 19 essentially astronomical functions coupled with a minute repeater. The theme chosen for the Les Cabinotiers watches introduced in 2021 was Le Temps Céleste (celestial time), masterfully expressed through three exceptional timepieces. Among them are the Armillary perpetual calendar – Planetaria watch, featuring a jumping retrograde perpetual calendar regulated by a double-axis tourbillon and complemented by a 3D depiction of the two hemispheres for the 24-hour and day/night indications. Expressed at this level, astronomical complications are undoubtedly both science and art.

A beautiful tribute

In the 19th century, Vacheron Constantin’s reputation was well established, particularly in the world of accuracy, which earned the company numerous prizes for excellence in chronometry (precision timekeeping) awarded by the Geneva Observatory, among others. The Manufacture’s customers therefore increasingly placed orders for timepieces meeting their needs, which were strictly formulated when it comes to astronomical observations. A letter addressed to Vacheron Constantin on February 24th 1853 by Count Hyppolite Salino, secretary of the Sardinian Legation in Paris, features a request for a thermometer and date watch: “(…) as I intend to use this watch for astronomical observations, I would like it to be a true chronometer, crafted with the perfection that the works emerging from your workshops come so close to attaining”. A glowing tribute to the watchmaking excellence of Vacheron Constantin.

************************

Watch selection

Double-sided yellow gold pocket watch with 48-month perpetual calendar and moon phases –1884

This is the first recorded Vacheron Constantin pocket watch to incorporate a perpetual calendar and features a double-sided display. The display of time including small seconds appears on the front enamel dial with Roman numerals and external minute-track, while the perpetual calendar is displayed on four counters visible through the transparent caseback. The vertical axis features the date and the day of the week, while the age and phases of the moon appear on the horizontal axis opposite the month display. This subdial divided into four quarters is staggered over 48 months with the leap year indicated by the same hand. This timepiece is all the more remarkable in that it won a First Prize for chronometry at the Geneva Observatory competition.

Grand Complication yellow gold pocket watch with tourbillon, perpetual calendar, moon phases and split-seconds chronograph – 1931

This extremely complicated watch is a collector’s item. A very rare model for its time, it displays a perpetual calendar with the age and phases of the moon, together with a split-seconds chronograph as well as a 32-hour power reserve indication. Regulated by a tourbillon, which can be seen by lifting the cover protecting the caseback, this watch won First Prize in the 1934 Geneva Observatory competition. Produced in 1931, it is a perfect example of the golden age that Vacheron Constantin experienced at that time in the production of pocket watches with multiple complications, perfect readability and infallible chronometry.

King Farouk yellow gold Grand Complication pocket watch – 1934

One of the most complicated watches of its time. This imposing model – measuring 80 millimetres in diameter and which took more than five years to complete – is equipped with 13 hands. Its calibre incorporates 820 components that drive 14 complications. This double going-train watch in 18K yellow gold was presented to King Farouk of Egypt in 1946 and remained in his collection until 1954. It includes a chiming minute repeater and Grande and Petite Sonnerie equipped with three gongs and three hammers, a split-seconds chronograph with a 30-minute counter, a perpetual calendar, an indication of the phases and age of the moon, an alarm clock and two power-reserve indicators.

“Cioccolatone” yellow gold square curved wristwatch with triple calendar and moon phases – 1954

In the 1950s, post-war exuberance led to new forms of design that were both functional and unrestrained. Vacheron Constantin’s response to this new trend took the form of this large, organically square wristwatch with rounded lugs and bezel, as well as a slightly curved case. Nicknamed “Cioccolatone”, this watch has become an iconic symbol of the design typical of that period. Introduced at the beginning of the decade, it has been interpreted through several variations, including this most emblematic Reference 4764 with triple calendar and moon phases.

Ultra-thin platinum wristwatch with perpetual calendar and moon phases – 1988

At the height of the hegemony of quartz watches in the 1980s, Vacheron Constantin took a gamble on the mechanical watch by producing this complication watch, the first perpetual calendar with moon phases on a wristwatch from the Maison, which was also offered in an ultra-thin version. This model played an important role in the renewed interest in high-end watchmaking and its complicated mechanical watches. Presented in 1983, this reference –interpreted through several iterations including a skeleton version – remained in production until 2006. The watch is particularly elegant thanks to its movement measuring barely 4.05 mm thick: the ultra-thin Calibre 1120 QP complete with date module.

Les Cabinotiers Celestia Astronomical Grand Complication 3600 – 2017

The unique double-sided Celestia Astronomical Grand Complication 3600 combines astronomy and the art of watchmaking in a “celestial” white gold composition. The watch incorporates 23 mainly astronomical horological complications appearing on both sides of the case, offering a reading of the time in three different modes – civil, solar and sidereal – each driven by its own gear train. Its new fully integrated calibre has nearly 514 components housed in a thickness of barely 8.7 mm, while six barrels guarantee it a three-week autonomy.

Les Cabinotiers Tourbillon armillary perpetual calendar – Planetaria – 2021

Equipped with the new manual-winding Calibre 1991, the result of four years of development, this one-of-a-kind timepiece features a perpetual calendar with a retrograde display of the date, day and month. It also features a rare 3D depiction representing the Earth’s Northern and Southern hemispheres. The two titanium globes perform a complete rotation in 24 hours complete with a day/night indication. The movement is regulated by a dual-axis tourbillon whose interlocking cages move at a speed of 60 seconds per rotation.

, , , , , ,

Vacheron Constantin – New Flagship in New York City

Vacheron Constantin – New Flagship in New York City

  • Vacheron Constantin opens North American Flagship in New York City
  • The new two-story Boutique celebrates the long-standing relationship between the Maison and America since 1831
  • Client-first experiences include in-house watchmaker, strap customization, interactive digital archives, rotating exhibition space, and the first ever permanent “Les Collectionneurs” vintage offer.

New York, June 2021 – Vacheron Constantin, the luxury Swiss watchmaking Maison with over two hundred and sixty-five years of expertise, is delighted to announce the opening of its North American Flagship in the heart of New York City, at 28 East 57th Street. The boutique pays tribute to the Maison’s deep roots in the United States and commitment to outstanding client service.

The new Vacheron Constantin Flagship in North America celebrates the relationship between our Maison and America that has existed since 1831. Engaging with the creative spirit of America and its many diverse cultures, Vacheron Constantin is ready to make 28 E 57th Street its new North American home. This Flagship exemplifies Vacheron Constantin’s dedication to excellence and our motto, Do Better if Possible, and That is Always Possible.” – Louis Ferla, Chief Executive Officer, Vacheron Constantin

A 190 year love story with New York

The selection of New York for the location of Vacheron Constantin’s North American Flagship carries powerful symbolism for the Maison. In 1831, Jacques Barthélémi Vacheron wrote a letter stating his intent to expand business to the United States, and in 1832 the company established its first agent in New York. By the twentieth century, Vacheron Constantin timepieces could be found on the wrists of eminent Americans from members of the Rockefeller family, Henry and William James, automobile manufacture James Ward Packard, and actors Marlon Brando and Elizabeth Taylor to name a few. Of the many innovative and historically important Vacheron Constantin timepieces, special references inspired by American clients include one of the first large wristwatches for aviators, a series of pocket watches for the U.S. Corps of Engineers during WWI, and just a few years later, the cushion-shaped “American 1921”, a classic yet daring tilted-dial design created for the American market. This iconic timepiece celebrates its 100th Anniversary in 2021 and is the focus of the New York Flagship opening exhibition.

Immersive experience

Located between Madison and Park Avenue, the new Vacheron Constantin Flagship spans over 4,500 square feet and covers two floors. A distinctive glass façade opens directly onto 57th Street and features a sleek brass-toned design in the shape of the Maison’s emblem, the Maltese Cross. The transparent glass invites collectors and visitors into a discovery of the Maison’s creativity and fine craftsmanship in a harmonious old-meets-new environment fitting the spirit of Vacheron Constantin’s contemporary watchmaking.

Upon entering, visitors are greeted by an atrium filled with natural light and a double floor height. A striking blue straw marquetry wall with Maltese cross motif creates a focal point that conveys Vacheron Constantin’s dedication to high watchmaking artistry. To the left, an open discovery table welcomes watch collectors and visitors alike to discover beautiful crafts and techniques amongst an assortment of Métiers d’art timepieces.

American 1921 Unique Piece Historique Restoration Restauration Calibre 1921 Making-of 100th anniversary

A large eye-catching screen offers an immersive tour through the history of Vacheron Constantin in the United States via an exclusive interactive experience: the “Chronogram”. Developed in partnership with the Swiss Federal Institute of Technology in Lausanne (EPFL), Chronogram is an innovative tool that uses emerging technologies to digitize Vacheron Constantin’s exceptional body of archives accumulated since 1755, shared with the public for live exploration of the Maison’s heritage.

In-house watchmaker, rotating exhibitions and family-friendly accommodations

A dedicated area within the first floor displays the restoration capabilities of the Maison and rotating exhibitions of historic timepieces from the Vacheron Constantin private heritage collection in Geneva. In a striking design, visitors are met with a sweeping staircase animated with bronze vertical columns inspired by 19th century architecture. As a demonstration of the Maison’s commitment to client-centered service, the second floor opens to an expansive watchmaking bench intended to encourage interaction with an in-house watchmaker as well as a custom strap station presenting both engraving and embossing customization options. A VIP Lounge encourages lingering and a family-friendly bar upstairs is equipped with games and refreshments that truly embody Vacheron Constantin’s dedication to clients.

A window into Vacheron Constantin’s collections

The new Flagship houses the complete Vacheron Constantin timepiece collection from simple to high complications, as well as boutique exclusive models, the first permanent “Les Collectionneurs” vintage watch offering, and a rotating Les Cabinotiers assortment. The newly unveiled American 1921 Pièce Unique re-creation timepiece will also be presented for the occasion of the Flagship opening.

“Les Collectionneurs”

Chosen with patience and talent by the Maison’s heritage department specialists, “Les Collectionneurs” curated collection of vintage Vacheron Constantin watches from the 20th century have been restored and are offered with the same warranty given to contemporary collections. Previously only available at dedicated annual events in Vacheron Constantin boutiques around the world, a rare assortment will be featured in the North American Flagship as the world’s first “Les Collectionneurs” permanent boutique offering.

Les Cabinotiers

Les Cabinotiers, Vacheron Constantin’s approach to single-piece editions, showcases the Maison’s amazing wealth of creative and engineering talent. The department of Les Cabinotiers combines excellence and dedication with a group of master watchmaking professionals who use their wide-ranging scientific knowledge in the latest technical breakthroughs and 18th century watchmaking crafts to perpetuate Vacheron Constantin’s tradition of innovation. Creating both bespoke timepieces on demand from clients as well as timepieces conceived by Vacheron Constantin master watchmakers, Les Cabinotiers translate dreams into reality in mechanical and artistic terms and consistently push the boundaries of what is possible in watchmaking today.

A One of a Kind American 1921

To mark the 100th anniversary of the American 1921 watch, Vacheron Constantin has delved into its archives and its horological expertise to offer a faithful reproduction of the American 1921 original timepiece, emblematic of an era. Stemming from an impressive technical feat and epic human saga pushing the limits of fine craftsmanship, the creation of the American 1921 Pièce Unique watch mobilizes the remarkable expertise of the Maison’s Restoration workshop and Heritage department for an entire year. This approach might be a first in the watch industry, reflecting Vacheron Constantin’s commitment to the conservation, transmission and continuous enrichment of its heritage and skills.

Inspiration from American Art

In homage to great American art, display windows on 57th Street and the boutique’s first floor exhibition area will be fully encompassed during the opening by a dream-like bronze city including a car and track installation inspired by the masterpiece, Metropolis II (2010), by American artist Chris Burden (1946-2015). From his action-based works in the 1970s that focused on his own body and the relationship of the viewer to it, to the technical feats of his later sculptures that intervened in spaces, artist Chris Burden consistently challenged limitations. By doing so, he reflected on the surreal realities of contemporary life and invited the viewer to join in these contemplations. Vacheron Constantin and Chris Burden’s work share a commitment to craft, and an exploration of the beauty found in scientific exploration. The installation on view pays tribute to a cosmopolitan love of movement and “the idea of a city”. This is the Chris Burden Estate’s historic first ever brand collaboration.

Boutique Address:
Vacheron Constantin
28 East 57th Street
New York, NY 10022

Hours:
Monday – Saturday: 10am to 6pm
Sunday: 12 to 6pm

, , , , , , , , , , , , ,

Watches and Wonders opens tomorrow for the biggest watch event ever to take place online!

Watches and Wonders opens tomorrow for the biggest watch event ever to take place online!

Geneva, April 6, 2021  Close to 500 press conferences, over 40 keynotes, a daily live “Morning Show”, six expert-led panels… and a wealth of exceptional creations revealed by the 38 prestigious participating Maisons: Watches and Wonders 2021 opens tomorrow a for a particularly intense edition that will put watchmaking in the spotlight for over ten days. Online and
offline, from Geneva to Shanghai, follow this unmissable event live from anywhere in the world. Connect from tomorrow 7:00 CET to the
watchesandwonders.com digital platform.

Only hours to go before the curtain comes up on Watches and Wonders with a 2021 edition in two parts, starting with a digital format in Geneva, then over to Shanghai for an in-person Salon. For more than ten days, the eyes of the world will be on the creativity and expertise of the most prestigious names in watchmaking.

Getting this horological marathon under way, Watches and Wonders Geneva promises to be particularly intense with 38 participating brands – double last year – 500 press conferences, 400 presentations to retailers, over 40 keynotes, a daily live “Morning Show”, six panel discussions, also live each day, one-toone appointments, virtual tours and more. All part of the exciting program for the 23,000 visitors – media, retailers and end customers – who have been invited to Watches and Wonders Geneva by the brands for a fully digital Salon
experience.

Watchmaking puts on a “Morning Show” Going out live every morning from April 8 to 13 at 8:00 CET, the 2021 edition launches with the first “Morning Show” at 7:00 CET on April 7th. Presented by Belle Donati, a primetime news anchor for major European networks, this is where industry experts and other prestigious guests will be giving their informed insight. Analyses, summaries, product presentations, trend focuses, CEO interviews, expert views, panel discussions, highlights of the day and everything you need to know about watchmaking will be shared, live, each morning… not forgetting the “Minute LAB”, spotlight on the latest technology and innovations from the participating brands. No stone will be left unturned during these seven 40-minute shows, presented in English and simultaneously translated into simplified Chinese. The public will be able to watch the “Morning Show” live on the watchesandwonders.com platform or
catch up on the Watches and Wonders YouTube channel and social media.

Another highlight of the event will be the 42 launches and other “breaking news” from the 38 participating brands. Expect some major announcements, new watch presentations and exclusive product reveals, all on the new watchesandwonders.com platform.

A platform for debate and discussion And there is more: watchesandwonders.com is also a place for ideas and debate. Every day, from April 8 to 13 at 12:15 CET, influencers, brand leaders
and watchmaking experts will discuss the perspectives and challenges that lie ahead for the industry.: How can watchmaking contribute to overcome
resources scarcity and generate a positive impact? What will be the lasting consequences of the global pandemic? What role should technology and new
materials play? What impact can blockchain have on watchmaking? All these subjects will be covered in six 40-minute discussions, streamed live on the
platform, then available on replay for the public.

A gathering of the leading players in watchmaking worldwide, Watches and Wonders is set to become the standout event for 2021. Join watch enthusiasts around the world on watchesandwonders.com from 7:00 CET tomorrow and be part of this digital experience, before moving on to China, starting April 14!

BRANDS ON THE WATCHESANDWONDERS.COM DIGITAL PLATFORM
PARTICIPATING BRANDS | A. LANGE & SÖHNE | ARNOLD & SON | BAUME & MERCIER | BVLGARI | CARL F. BUCHERER | CARTIER | CHANEL | CHOPARD | CHRONOSWISS | CORUM | FERDINAND BERTHOUD | GREUBEL FORSEY | H. MOSER & CIE. | HERMÈS | HUBLOT | IWC SCHAFFHAUSEN | JAEGER-LECOULTRE | LOUIS MOINET | LOUIS VUITTON | MAURICE LACROIX | MONTBLANC | NOMOS GLASHÜTTE | ORIS | PANERAI | PATEK PHILIPPE | PIAGET | PURNELL | REBELLION TIMEPIECES | RESSENCE | ROGER DUBUIS |ROLEX | SPEAKE-MARIN | TAG HEUER | TRILOBE | TUDOR | ULYSSE NARDIN | VACHERON CONSTANTIN | ZENITH

BRANDS EXHIBITING AT WATCHES AND WONDERS SHANGHAI EXHIBITING BRANDS | CARTIER | ROLEX | JAEGER-LECOULTRE | VACHERON CONSTANTIN | IWC SCHAFFHAUSEN | PIAGET | A. LANGE & SÖHNE | CHOPARD | PANERAI | ULYSSE NARDIN | ROGER DUBUIS | MONTBLANC | TUDOR | BAUME & MERCIER | H. MOSER & CIE. | ARMIN STROM | ARNOLD & SON | FERDINAND BERTHOUD | PURNELL

, , , , , , , , , ,

Exhibition “DIPTYQUES” A HISTORY OF COLLABORATIONS, Singapore, 1st March – 31st March 2021

Exhibition “DIPTYQUES” A HISTORY OF COLLABORATIONS, Singapore, 1st March – 31st March 2021

  • Singapore, 1st March – 11th April 2021, at Vacheron Constantin boutiques, ION Orchard & Marina Bay Sands
  • Seventeen timepieces from the Vacheron Constantin private Heritage collection pay tribute to the encounters that have punctuated the history of the Maison

Singapore, March 1st 2021 – Seventeen timepieces from the Vacheron Constantin private Heritage collection pay tribute to the encounters that have punctuated the history of the Maison. They retrace the saga of these incredible collaborative endeavours resulting in technical and artistic breakthroughs that have in turn given life to exceptional horological creations and instruments, thereby writing significant chapters in the history of Fine Watchmaking. The exhibition “DIPTYQUES” A HISTORY OF COLLABORATIONS will take place at the Vacheron Constantin boutiques, in ION Orchard and Marina Bay Sands, from March 1st to March 31st, 2021.

« DIPTYQUES » A HISTORY OF COLLABORATIONS, is all about personalities bound by a sense of kinship, mutually enriching visions and complementary skills. People such as Jacques-Barthélémy Vacheron, a technically gifted watchmaker who was the grandson of the Maison’s founder; and astute businessman and intrepid traveller François Constantin, who combined their talents in 1819.

This encounter, of which the bicentenary is being celebrated in 2019, gave rise to the signature of the Maison, a subtle balance between horological excellence and stylistic virtuosity, and to its motto: “Do better if possible, and that is always possible ”. Diptyques tells the story of how the ensuing encounters in turn contributed to ever greater advancements.

From Emile Plantamour to Albert Pellaton, from Raymond Moretti to Michel Butor, intellectual and manual intelligence lie at the heart of this extraordinary watchmaking epic, driven by a taste for challenges and passion. Human beings are both the architects and artisans of these large-scale projects.

They embody this visionary, enlightened thought, as well as the expertise that is its logical extension. Hired by Vacheron Constantin in 1839 as a watchmaker specialising in mechanics and construction, Georges-Auguste Leschot invented the revolutionary pantograph, designed to standardise the production of watch movements and to enable industrial-scale component manufacture. In 1932, Louis Cottier developed the world time display indicating the time zones by means of an ingenious rotating disc device.

Ferdinand Verger, a renowned jeweller with a knowledge of watchmaking, made a Fabergé egg for the tsar in 1880 comprising a Vacheron Constantin movement. His sons proved themselves worthy heirs by making watches with complications and richly decorated clocks until the 1930s.

In 2010, Anita Porchet, an expert in the art of miniature enamelling, created a masterpiece for the Maison: a watch identically reproducing the ceiling of the Opéra Garnier as painted by Marc Chagall.Vacheron Constantin thereby highlights these numerous synergies. Each is a challenge, a bold move, a wild dream come true through the genius of these watchmakers and artisans. Each is a unique brick in the Haute Horlogerie edifice to which Vacheron Constantin contributes, as a trailblazing pioneer and inveterate builder.

—————————————————————————————————–
Watches highlight:

Reference 10823 – 1824
VACHERON & CONSTANTIN
18K yellow gold pocket watch, guilloché case, date indication, enamel dial 1824
Vacheron Constantin Heritage Private Collection

Reference 11178 – 1930
VACHERON CONSTANTIN & VERGER FRÈRES
18K white and yellow gold wristwatch with shutters, two sapphire-set crowns1930
Vacheron Constantin Heritage Private Collection

Reference 11289 – 1949
VACHERON CONSTANTIN & LOUIS COTTIER
18K yellow gold worldtime pocket watch, 24 time zones and 41 cities indication, silvered dial 1949H.
H. Prince H. Daoud of Egypt provenance
Vacheron Constantin Heritage Private Collection

—————————————————————————————————–
Schedule
VACHERON CONSTANTIN ION ORCHARD BOUTIQUE 
Date: 1 – 17 MARCH 2021
Hours: 10:00 AM – 9.30 PM Daily
Address: Vacheron Constantin ION Orchard Boutique, 2 Orchard Turn #02-07 Singapore 238801

VACHERON CONSTANTIN MARINA BAY SANDS BOUTIQUE
Date: 18 – 31 MARCH 2021
Hours: 11:00AM – 10:00PM Daily
Address: Vacheron Constantin Marina Bay Sands boutique

The Shoppes at Marina Bay Sands, 2 Bayfront Avenue #B2M-238 Singapore 018972

,

GIRARD-PERREGAUX HERITAGE & DUTY – For over 229 years a high-end Swiss watch Manufacture

GIRARD-PERREGAUX

HERITAGE & DUTY

For over 229 years, Girard-Perregaux, a high-end Swiss watch Manufacture, has been seeking horological perfection in both technical and aesthetic terms. The brand’s origins date back to Geneva in 1791, when Jean-François Bautte, whose workshops were acquired by Girard-Perregaux in 1906, created his first watches. The brand name was established in 1856 in the watchmaking town of La Chaux-de-Fonds, thanks to the marriage of Constant Girard and Marie Perregaux.Throughout its history, Girard-Perregaux has consistently perpetuated this expertise, placing its watches firmly in the vanguard of horological innovation, as confirmed by the 100 patents currently held by the Maison.

JEAN- FRANÇOIS BAUTTE

Girard-Perregaux’s oldest roots lie in the work of Jean-François Bautte, the Geneva watchmaker-jeweller who presented his first creations in 1791 and whose succession was acquired in 1906 by Girard-Perregaux, born in 1856 from the union of Constant Girard and Marie Perregaux.

Bautte was born on March 26th 1772 in Geneva. At just 12 years old, having been orphaned at an early age, he began serving a series of apprenticeships as a jeweller, goldsmith and case assembler. Endowed with lively and passionately dedicated mind-set, he also gained a knowledge of watchmaking and engine-turning (guillochage). His undeniable qualities as an artisan were backed by remarkable commercial abilities. From 1795 onwards, Jean-François Bautte began travelling to sell his creations. He developed his fabrique (the French name for watch production facilities), which was the most comprehensive that had ever existed, employing 180 workers there, assisted by 120 home-based artisans.

In addition to his boutique in Geneva, Bautte also owned a branch in Paris, as well as another in Florence. Correspondence from the Russian and Danish courts testify to his close ties with European elites.  His renown was such that no eminent foreign visitors to Geneva missed out on the opportunity to visit his Maison, following the example of Balzac, Dumas and the future Queen Victoria.

LA CHAUX-DE-FONDS

’ Watchmaking metropolis’ is the nickname acquired by the town of La Chaux-de-Fonds. The city has been living in step with the rhythms of watchmaking since the late 17th century. From the early 19th century onwards, after the great fire that devastated the town in 1794, a brilliant urban planning scheme was implemented. The streets were to be wide and straight, running from east to west and thus following the path of the sun. The height of the houses was strictly regulated. In an age when artificial light was ineffective, watchmakers thus enjoyed the best possible lighting, that of the sun. This distinctive feature that is unique in the world has earned La Chaux-de-Fonds a place on the UNESCO list of World Heritage sites.

It was thus a natural move for Girard-Perregaux to establish its Manufacture there. But rather than housing its workshops in a brand-new, soulless construction, Girard-Perregaux installed them in a beautifully restored early 20th century building.

The origins

LA CHAUX-DE-FONDS

’ Watchmaking metropolis’ is the nickname acquired by the town of La Chaux-de-Fonds. The city has been living in step with the rhythms of watchmaking since the late 17th century. From the early 19th century onwards, after the great fire that devastated the town in 1794, a brilliant urban planning scheme was implemented. The streets were to be wide and straight, running from east to west and thus following the path of the sun. The height of the houses was strictly regulated. In an age when artificial light was ineffective, watchmakers thus enjoyed the best possible lighting, that of the sun. This distinctive feature that is unique in the world has earned La Chaux-de-Fonds a place on the UNESCO list of World Heritage sites.

It was thus a natural move for Girard-Perregaux to establish its Manufacture there. But rather than housing its workshops in a brand-new, soulless construction, Girard-Perregaux installed them in a beautifully restored early 20th century building.

The Manufacture

PILAR OF THE SWISS WATCHMAKING

By developing and manufacturing its components entirely in-house, Girard-Perregaux can legitimately lay claim to the status of a ‘Manufacture’. The brand seeks perfection expressed not only through the immediately visible external appearance of its timepieces, but also through their hidden faces: their movements.

Constant Girard-Perregaux considered movements as a technical element of his watches, yet enhanced their architecture to the point of making them an unmistakable signature feature. His immediately identifiable watches earned Girard-Perregaux the highest distinctions, as was the case with the Esmeralda, Tourbillon with Three Gold Bridges presented in 1889 at the Universal Exhibition in Paris and rewarded by a gold medal.

New markets

CONQUERING THE WORLD

During the second half of the 19th century, it became vital for Girard-Perregaux to find new markets. In an age when journeys were long and often perilous, watchmakers were prepared to set off for remote destinations.

In 1859, Constant Girard-Perregaux’s brother-in-law François Perregaux headed for Singapore where he spent over a year, before settling in Japan. He noted that the time measurement system was completely different to that prevailing in the West, which meant that watches were of no use there. He thus decided to have Girard-Perregaux produce authentic objects of curiosity greatly appreciated by rich Japanese clients. This marked the start of the brand’s longstanding presence in the country.

In 1865, Girard-Perregaux opened a dealership in Buenos Aires, headed by another of Constant Girard-Perregaux’s brothers-in-law, Henri Perregaux. It was to welcome some of the Manufacture’s finest creations: tourbillons, minute repeaters and other refined Grande Complication models with weighty, richly decorated cases that delighted wealthy South American clients.

The Chronometry

THE QUEST FOR PRECISION

The birth of chronometry dates back to the mid-19th century. Constant Girard-Perregaux took an early interest in the tourbillon, which served to achieve superior regularity of rate. He focused his research on the actual structure of the movement and the shape of its components. From the mid-1850s onwards, he began working on creating a timepiece equipped with a tourbillon regulator fitted on a calibre with three parallel bridges. Presented at the Universal Exhibition in Paris in 1867, this watch won him a first medal.
In 1957, the watchmakers of the Manufacture introduced the Gyromatic, an ultra-thin high-performance automatic winding system enabling the production of remarkably thin watches. This principle reached its peak in 1965 in equipping the world’s first ever high-frequency mechanical self-winding movement, the Gyromatic HF, beating at a rate of 36,000 vibrations per hour.

At the end of the 1960s, Swiss watchmakers, who considered watches above all as precision instruments, decided to take a further step in this direction by resorting to quartz. In 1971, Girard-Perregaux presented the first quartz watch ever produced in Switzerland, whose 32,768 Hertz frequency has become the benchmark among manufacturers worldwide.

From the idea to the object

RESEARCH & DEVELOPMENT

Progressing from the first idea of a watch to the finalised object takes time. Throughout a process involving studies and analyses, as well as scale models and prototypes, the initial concept is repeatedly verified and adjusted. Once the machining, decoration and assembly operations have been determined for each of the components, production of the new mechanism can begin.

Presented as a first prototype in 2008 and manufactured as of 2013, the Constant Escapement L.M. represented a technological revolution in the watch industry. It enabled Girard-Perregaux to solve a problem that had been occupying the profession for over five centuries: that of constant force. And yet the idea is in fact brilliantly simple: a silicon blade placed at the heart of the escapement stores up the decreasing energy from the barrels and transmits it in a smooth and regular manner.

Behind the case

ABOVE AND BEYOND VISIBLE ASPECTS

Because a watch must be as beautiful inside as it is on the outside, and because the tiny imperfections of machining are detrimental to the smooth running of a mechanical movement, today – just as in 1791– all components pass through the hands of experienced bevellers.

In producing its movements, Girard-Perregaux works with the most innovative technologies, particularly in the development and machining phases of the various components. The decoration, assembly and adjustment stages are entirely performed by hand, using traditional methods. Long months at the bench are required to accomplish these feats, even though they often remain concealed behind the steel or gold exterior of the case.

 

, , , ,

El Tourbillon RM 020 Richard Mille reinterpreta el clásico reloj de bolsillo

Hay algo maravillosamente teatral en un reloj de bolsillo: un dispositivo secreto que se produce con una floritura para hacer que el tiempo esté disponible como por arte de magia. En un universo dickensiano era un medio cazador o somesuch de oro, usado por un caballero corpulento de medios. En el mundo de hoy, sin embargo, solo un reloj de bolsillo de estilo singular servirá.

El Tourbillon RM 020 Richard Mille reinterpreta el clásico reloj de bolsillo

El compromiso de experimentar es evidente ya que este reloj de bolsillo para el siglo XXI abandona la forma redonda para volverse rectangular

Richard Mille ha reinterpretado el clásico reloj de bolsillo de una manera espectacular y hermosa con el tourbillon RM 020, un movimiento de cuerda manual con horas, minutos y reserva de marcha.

Todo comienza con la placa base, que únicamente para un reloj de bolsillo no es metálica. Un material compuesto isotrópico creado de nanofibras de carbono moldeadas a alta temperatura y presión proporciona una estabilidad extraordinaria, como lo demuestra su uso original en los aviones de la fuerza aérea de los EE. UU.

Este alto grado de integridad bajo cualquier condición merece un uso ampliado del material en toda la cartera de tourbillon de Richard Mille. Todo es parte de un compromiso de experimentación con nuevos materiales, ampliando los límites de la manera típica de Richard Mille.

La nano-fibra de carbono tiene un gran valor estético. Si bien la cara es un país de las maravillas absoluto de las partes móviles, la parte posterior tiene una elegancia muy moderada: el mecanismo de ajuste de tiempo modular con sus ruedas bellamente terminadas se ajusta al negro de la nanofibra de carbono, lo que le da una simplicidad arquitectónica. Esta posición también tiene la ventaja obvia de la facilidad de mantenimiento, sin necesidad de desmontaje.

La parte posterior del RM 020 tiene una elegancia muy moderada contra la parte posterior de la nanofibra de carbono.

Hemos aprendido a esperar lo inesperado de Richard Mille. Así que olvídate de una caja redonda: es un reloj rectangular, de 62 mm de largo y 52 mm de ancho. La banda de la caja es de titanio con biseles delanteros y traseros en oro rojo de 18 quilates, oro blanco o tornillos estriados de titanio y titanio para sujetar los puentes a la caja. La cadena del reloj también es de titanio con un mecanismo de liberación rápida. La corona de limitación de par, fabricada por Cheval a las 12 en punto, activa el selector de funciones a través del devanado, neutral y ajuste, que se muestra en el dial con una pequeña manecilla a las 4 en punto. Por su propia naturaleza, evita el rebobinado que puede ser tan perjudicial. Es engañosamente simple ya que la cadena, el cierre, la tapa de la corona y el soporte de escritorio requieren 580 operaciones separadas y tienen 189 componentes.

El RM 020 es un reloj rectangular, de 62 mm de largo y 52 mm de ancho.

Además del indicador de selección de funciones, la reserva de energía de 10 días se indica en el dial mediante una escala numérica entre las 9 y las 10 en punto. Estos son discretos, mientras que los números blancos y las manecillas de horas y minutos con punta son grandes y audaces. Está mirando profundamente en la cara que muestra dónde sucede la magia.

En el pasado, los caballeros que poseían relojes de bolsillo viajaban a caballo o en carruajes por caminos llenos de baches, lo que no ayudaba al cronometraje de precisión. La invención del tourbillon en el siglo XIX dio a los relojes de bolsillo la estabilidad que tanto necesitaban. Al igual que el soporte de escritorio, el tourbillon se remonta a los primeros días de la historia de los relojes de bolsillo. Así como la transformación de un reloj de bolsillo en un pendulette de bureau es una extensión elegante de su uso, también es evidente que incorporar un tourbillon en el RM 020 es tanto un saludo al pasado como una característica práctica.

El RM 020 es un reloj rectangular, de 62 mm de largo y 52 mm de ancho.

El RM 020 es un reloj rectangular, de 62 mm de largo y 52 mm de ancho.

 

En años anteriores, solo funcionaría un reloj de bolsillo de estilo singular. Parece que nada ha cambiado en ese sentido.

Los diseñadores y fabricantes de relojes de bolsillo siempre abordaban problemas para mejorar el rendimiento. El RM 020 presenta la inercia variable, el equilibrio de resorte libre con un resorte demasiado frío que fue diseñado para generaciones anteriores de relojes de bolsillo. Protege contra las respuestas adversas a los golpes o al ensamblar y reensamblar el movimiento.

Esto de ninguna manera agota las características técnicas distintivas del RM 020 que incluye un trinquete de barril con retroceso progresivo, dientes de barril sinuosos y piñón de tercera rueda, entre otros, pero los aficionados a Richard Mille sabrán que nada se ha pasado por alto. Este es un reloj de bolsillo para el siglo XXI, un reloj excelente y un accesorio llamativo, con una personalidad propia.

Breguet Grande Complication Marie-Antoinette | Reloj de bolsillo excepcional
, ,

Breguet Grande Complication Marie-Antoinette | Reloj de bolsillo excepcional

Grande Complication n°1160.

María Antonieta poseía por los relojes Breguet una verdadera pasión y había adquirido varios, entre los cuales un reloj perpetuo provisto de un dispositivo de carga automática. En 1783, un misterioso admirador hace un pedido a Breguet para regalarle a la Reina el reloj más espectacular posible y que reuniera todo el saber hacer relojero de la época. El pedido estipula que el oro debería reemplazar donde sea posible los demás metales y que las complicaciones relojeras deben ser múltiples y variadas.
n.g.hayek_marie-antoinette_0 (1)

n.g.hayek_marie-antoinette_0 (1)

“María Antonieta”

Sin límite de tiempo ni de dinero, Breguet que ya es proveedor de la Corte, tiene carta blanca. Desgraciadamente, la Reina no tendrá jamás la oportunidad de contemplar su reloj nº160, llamado “María Antonieta” que sólo se terminará en 1827, es decir, 34 años después de su muerte, 4 años después de la muerte de A.-L. Breguet y 44 años después de que fuera encargado. Tanto su extrema complejidad como su fabulosa historia han obsesionado el mundo relojero y el espíritu de los coleccio­nistas durante más de dos siglos.

Robado en 1983 en un museo de Jerusalén

Robado en 1983 en un museo de Jerusalén para luego ser encontrado en diciembre de 2007, esta obra maestra del arte relojero conoció un destino tan enigmático y velado de misterio que se ha vuelto un verdadero objeto de fascinación. Al parecer, pasaron casi 44 años hasta que el reloj fue terminado y Maria Antonieta no vivió para verlo finalizado, así que permaneció en manos de la compañía Breguet, que fue la que lo creó. Cuando el reloj fue recuperado en 2007, tras sufrir un robo en el Instituto L.A. Mayer de Arte Islámico en Jerusalén, se calculó que el precio de dicha joya era de 27 millones de euros.

Relojeros de la Fábrica Breguet y reloj de bolsillo excepcional

En 2004, Nicolas G. Hayek propone a sus relojeros de la Fábrica Breguet el reto de reproducir una copia perfecta de este reloj de bolsillo excepcional. Volver a fabricar tal número de complicaciones únicamente sobre la base de documentos fue un verdadero desafío para los relojeros de la Fábrica. Investigaciones realizadas a partir de archivos y de dibujos originales del Museo Breguet así como de lugares culturales emblemáticos como el Museo de Artes y Oficios de París, cons­tituyeron la única base de información disponible para cada función o elemento estético.

Exámenes comparativos de relojes antiguos, en especial del reloj del Duque de Praslin, aportaron nuevos elementos sobre la estética y las técnicas relojeras de la época. Estos estudios revelaron unas técnicas hoy en día desaparecidas y que han permitido a Breguet fabricar un reloj en todo fiel al original. Reloj perpetuo con repetición de minutos sonando las horas a discreción, los cuartos y los minutos, el nuevo María Antonieta posee todos los componentes de una obra de arte. Un calendario perpetuo completo indica la fecha, el día y el mes, respectivamente a las dos, seis y ocho horas. La ecuación del tiempo a las diez horas anuncia la diferencia cotidiana entre el tiempo solar y el tiempo civil. En el centro, las horas saltantes y los minutos acogen un segundero grande indepen­diente, precursor del cronógrafo, mientras que el pequeño segundero se encuentra a las seis. El indicador de reserva de marcha de 48 horas está al lado de un termómetro bimetálico.

823 componentes

El movimiento de carga automática, llamado perpetuo, integra 823 componentes con acabados excepcionales. Las platinas, los puentes, la pieza móvil más pequeña de engranaje del minutero, del calendario y de la repetición están fabricados en oro rosa pulido con madera. Los tornillos son de acero azul y pulido, los puntos de fricción, agujeros y niveles engastados con zafiros. El ingenioso mecanismo está además provisto de un modelo particular de escape de palancas naturales, de un espiral cilíndrico de oro y de un volante bimetálico. Un dispositivo antichoque con doble pare-chute protege el eje del volante así como los árboles de la masa de carga contra los golpes y las sacudidas.

Versailles

En abril 2008, después de cuatro años de trabajo de reconstrucción, el nuevo reloj María Antonieta está ya en su suntuoso joyero, tallado en el roble de Versalles bajo el cual a la Reina le gustaba descansar. Después de haber sufrido una tor­menta y una sequía, la Propiedad de Versailles se vio obligada a talar este roble mítico antes de regalarlo a Nicolas G. Hayek por su cumpleaños.

Más Relojes de lujo: Breguet marine

alta relojeria
, , , , ,

ALTA RELOJERIA – FONDOS PARA SMARTPHONES

ALTA RELOJERIA – FONDOS PARA SMARTPHONES

La historia de los relojes (denominada también como historia de la relojería) es la secuencia de eventos que han ocurrido en torno a los descubrimientos científicos de los relojes y autómatas denominados: guardatiempos (dispositivos mecánicos capaces de fraccionar, contar y guardar memoria de secuencias en el tiempo).

el acero es el rey de los metales para las cajas de relojes, mientras que el acero queda reservado para clientes “clásicos” de las grandes firmas de la Alta Relojería

Estos dispositivos han sido creados para proporcionar la hora en situaciones donde los astros no podían verse. Algunos de los dispositivos tienen unos orígenes claros en ciertas técnicas y tecnologías bien datadas, como puede ser el caso de los relojes de arena cuya construcción está ligada al soplado de vidrio. Muchas culturas han tenido curiosidad por medir el tiempo y las fechas del calendario con la simple observación de los fenómenos naturales y astronómicos, este conocimiento les ha proporcionado una prosperidad económica debido en parte a que eran capaces de predecir con precisión el tiempo de las cosechas, las plantaciones y demás actividades .

SIHH 2019 – Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie Genève
, , , , , , , , , , , , , ,

SIHH 2019 – Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie Genève

SIHH 2019 – Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie Genève

EXPERIENCIA E INNOVACIÓN EN EL CORAZÓN DE SIHH.

Innovador, interactivo y conectado, SIHH continúa evolucionando. En un momento en que lo digital juega un papel estratégico para los negocios, SIHH se destaca como un evento clave que crea múltiples oportunidades para la creación de redes y para el aprendizaje.

le-salon_histoire-et-philosophie

le-salon_histoire-et-philosophie sihh-2019

Para los 20,000 asistentes que están invitados a descubrir los últimos relojes de los 35 expositores, 18 Maisons históricos y 17 independientes en el Carré des Horlogers, SIHH sigue siendo la plataforma de lanzamiento de las tendencias más importantes del año en relojería, pero no solo. También es una experiencia inmersiva que es rica en contenido; una plataforma innovadora, interactiva y resueltamente conectada para el beneficio de los expositores, visitantes y entusiastas de los relojes.

La innovación y la interactividad estarán presentes en el Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie 2019 (SIHH). El evento que se realiza anualmente en Ginebra continúa su estrategia para posicionarse como una plataforma de comunicaciones principal, orientada hacia las expectativas de los visitantes. Este año se desarrollará del 14 al 17 de enero de 2019 con 35 marcas expositoras.

Audemars-Piguet-Code-11.59-sihh-2019

Audemars-Piguet-Code-11.59-sihh-2019

En un entorno cambiante, el SIHH 2019 estará más conectado, más dinámico y más abierto al mundo, SIHH sigue siendo la primera gran reunión del año, donde la comunidad de relojería invitada tiene acceso a los nuevos modelos que definirán las tendencias para los próximos 12 meses. El concepto LIVE regresa. Más conectado y con una perspectiva más abierta, totalmente orientado hacia las redes y las personas, LIVE es un espacio dentro de SIHH: es una experiencia para compartir.ç

MANTENTE CONECTADO

SÉ PARTE DE LA EXPERIENCIA “LIVE”

En un amplio programa de eventos, el auditorio entrega el escenario a los expositores y al intercambio de ideas. Cada día, invitados y personalidades influyentes de disciplinas de alto nivel como la moda, el diseño, las artes y las nuevas tecnologías se reúnen para discutir los temas más importantes. Ofrece un foro único donde las marcas pueden reunirse con sus seguidores y seguidores en los lanzamientos principales que se transmiten en vivo a las redes sociales.

EL LAB PONE LA INNOVACIÓN AL FRENTE Y AL CENTRO.

La industria del mañana también está en el corazón de la feria con el LAB, un escaparate de las innovaciones e iniciativas que las marcas expositoras están desarrollando en tecnología y digital. También nuevo, SIHH cambia a un programa de cuatro días de ritmo más rápido que incluye horarios de apertura prolongados. Los miembros del público vuelven a tener su día, el jueves 17 de enero.

En un amplio programa de eventos, el auditorio entrega el escenario a los expositores y al intercambio de ideas. Cada día, invitados y personalidades influyentes de disciplinas de alto nivel como la moda, el diseño, las artes y las nuevas tecnologías se reunirán para discutir los temas más importantes. Diseñado con todas las comodidades de un estudio de televisión y con capacidad para más de 200 personas, el auditorio es un foro que se ofrece a los expositores, que pueden reunirse con sus seguidores en presentaciones clave que se transmiten en vivo a las redes sociales.

Audemars-Piguet-Code-11.59-sihh-2019

La gran novedad de este 29º SIHH, el LAB tiene que ver con la innovación en el sentido estricto del término. Aquí es donde los visitantes podrán ver las tecnologías y los proyectos digitales de las marcas expositoras, así como las empresas emergentes con conexiones a la industria. SIHH nuevamente da la bienvenida a 35 expositores, con 18 Historic Maisons, acompañados por primera vez por Bovet, y 17 marcas independientes en el Carré des Horlogers. La feria de este año presenta un calendario más compacto y más rápido durante cuatro días, con horarios de apertura más largos de 8:30 a 20:00 de lunes a miércoles y hasta las 22:00 de la noche.

sihh2019_panerai_submersible_chrono_guillaume_nery_edition_pam00982-1

sihh2019_panerai_submersible_chrono_guillaume_nery_edition_pam00982-1

Como la distribución y el consumo toman nuevas formas, y lo digital sigue desempeñando un papel estratégico para las marcas de relojes, SIHH se destaca como el lugar para conocer a otros y aprender sobre esta industria única. Ha evolucionado hasta convertirse en mucho más que una plataforma de lanzamiento para las principales tendencias de la relojería. También es una experiencia inmersiva que es rica en contenido, un punto de acceso de red y un centro de comunicaciones que envía información sobre la relojería en todo el mundo.

Maisons Historiques
A. Lange & Söhne, Audemars Piguet, Baume & Mercier, BOVET, Cartier, Girard-Perregaux, Greubel Forsey, Hermès, IWC, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Montblanc, Panerai, Parmigiani Fleurier, Piaget, Richard Mille, Roger Dubuis, Ulysse Nardin, Vacheron Constantin.

Carré des Horlogers 
Armin Strom, Christophe Claret, Chronométrie Ferdinand Berthoud, DeWitt, élégante by F.P.Journe, Grönefeld, H. Moser & Cie, Hautlence, HYT, Kari Voutilainen, Laurent Ferrier, MB&F, Ressence, Romain Gauthier, RJ, Speake-Marin, Urwerk.

Porsche-Design-Monobloc-Actuator-Chronotimer-Flyback-Limited-Edition-2
, , , , , ,

Porsche Design – Nuevos modelos se suman a la Colección Monobloc Actuator

reloj Porsche Design 

Nuevos modelos se suman a la Colección Monobloc Actuator

Porsche Design continúa su exitosa colaboración con Porsche Motorsport. Como cronometrador oficial del equipo Porsche Motorsport GT, Porsche Design presenta dos nuevas versiones del innovador Monobloc Actuator.

Porsche-Design-Monobloc-Actuator-Chronotimer-Flyback-Limited-Edition-2

Porsche-Design-Monobloc-Actuator-Chronotimer-Flyback-Limited-Edition

El Monobloc Actuator Chronotimer Flyback Limited Edition es una edición limitada a 251 relojes, una correlación directa a los 251 cm de distancia entre los ejes del Porsche 911 RSR. Tanto técnica como estéticamente, este cronógrafo refleja una profunda conexión con el mundo del automovilismo. La esfera de carbono negra mate, inspirada en los componentes del coche de carreras del equipo GT, muestra sus colores: negro, rojo, gris y blanco. Además, la función de los segundos situada a las 9 representa los colores característicos de los pianos de la pista, el blanco y el rojo. El concepto de la función del cronógrafo proviene del motor de alto rendimiento del Porsche 911 RSR.

relojes Porsche Design 

La segunda versión presentada es el nuevo Monobloc Actuator 24H-Chronotimer All Black. Este reloj luce un nuevo brazalete de titanio recubierto con carburo de titanio negro recientemente desarrollado. Además, de un nuevo cierre desplegable de titanio que permite un mejor ajuste.

El Concepto

Con la Colección Monobloc Actuator preserntada en 2017, Porsche Design introdujo un concepto de reloj completamente nuevo e innovador. Para desarrollarlo, los relojeros de Porsche Design Timepieces AG de Solothurn (Suiza) colaboraron con los diseñadores del Studio F. A. Porsche de Zell am See (Austria) y con los ingenieros del Centro de Desarrollo Porsche de Weissach (Alemania). Esta línea de trabajo desplegó un revolucionario nuevo enfoque en el funcionamiento de un cronógrafo. El motor del Porsche 911 RSR, un excelente ejemplo de rendimiento sobre la pista de carreras, inspiró este innovador mecanismo. En lugar de usar dos pulsadores estándar en el lateral de la caja para activar/parar las funciones del crono, como en los cronógrafos convencionales, en el Monobloc Actuator las funciones del crono se ponen en movimiento con la presión de una única leva de cambio integrada en la caja. De forma similar a los mecanismos utilizados por el motor de alto rendimiento del Porsche 911 RSR, los procesos adaptados del reloj brindan precisión absoluta, fiabilidad y sellado hermético. De hecho, la función del cronógrafo de este reloj, hermético hasta los 10 bares, puede usarse bajo el agua.

Monobloc Actuator 24H–Chronotimer – Excelencia y Calidad

Porsche Design lleva innovando y utilizando el titanio desde 1980, y el nuevo Monobloc Actuator 24H-Chronotimer no es una excepción. Con caja de titanio de 45.5 mm y hermeticidad hasta 10 bares, el recubrimiento del reloj en carburo de titanio negro le otorga un acabado deportivo y de calidad. La caja enmarca una esfera negra mate con indicador de marcha a las 9, segundero central del cronógrafo, contador de treinta minutos a las 12 y contador de doce horas a las 6. La ventana de fecha se integra a las 4. La escala taquimétrica en el borde exterior de la esfera permite al usuario calcular la velocidad media. El bisel muestra la escala de 24 horas. Como el motor del reloj, el calibre automático suizo ETA Valjoux 7754 late a 4 Hz, acumulando una reserva de marcha de 48 horas. Su rotor personalizado resalta el icono de Porsche Design, y pueden verse a través del cristal zafiro del fondo de caja.

Colección Monobloc Actuator

Perfección en cada detalle

Al igual que el diseño de la caja del Monobloc Actuator 24H-Chronotimer All Black, el nuevo brazalete de titanio con recubrimiento en carburo de titanio negro es el resultado del equilibrio entre la forma y la función, centrado en la comodidad y la precisión. Robusto y elegante, el brazalete de titanio recientemente desarrollado es especialmente cómodo por las características específicas del material. El origen del titanio en Porsche Design data de 1980, cuando se utilizó por primera vez en el brazalete del modelo Titan Chronograph. La máxima seguridad y comodidad están garantizadas a través del nuevo cierre desplegable de titanio de fácil ajuste.

Estas nuevas versiones de la Colección Monobloc Actuator: El Monobloc Actuator Chronotimer Flyback Limited Edition y el Monobloc Actuator 24H–Chronotimer All Black estarán disponibles desde mediados de 2018 en las boutiques Porsche Design, minoristas especializados y online.