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Jaeger-Lecoultre presenta el nuevo taller de descubrimiento de la odisea estelar dedicado al cosmos

 

 

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La colección Octo de Bulgari ha revolucionado el mundo de la relojería.

la colección Octo de Bulgari ha revolucionado el mundo de la relojería al batir nada menos que ocho récords mundiales

 

UN HOMENAJE A LA TRADICIÓN QUE SUPERA LOS LÍMITES

 

https://www.bulgari.com/
En la década transcurrida desde su lanzamiento en 2012, la colección Octo de Bulgari ha revolucionado el mundo de la relojería al batir nada menos que ocho récords mundiales.

https://www.bulgari.com/

 

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Jaeger-Lecoultre presenta el Atmos Hybris Mechanica Calibre 590

EL PERPETUO MOVIMIENTO DEL SISTEMA SOLAR CAPTADO EN UNA SUBLIME OBJET D’ART

En consonancia con la eterna búsqueda de precisión de Jaeger-LeCoultre, los ingenieros y relojeros de la Manufactura han creado una nueva complicación que reproduce los ciclos reales de la Tierra, el Sol y la Luna más fielmente que nunca, y la han desarrollado específicamente para el Atmos Hybris Mechanica Calibre 590. El extraordinario mecanismo aporta una dimensión completamente nueva a Atmos, el reloj perpetuo único que funciona en el aire, que muestra, en tres dimensiones y en tiempo real, las posiciones y movimientos relativos de la Tierra, la Luna y el Sol.

Apodado Atmos Tellurium, este es el reloj Atmos más complejo jamás creado, superando los límites de la precisión y el diseño, y la complejidad y la belleza arquitectónica de su movimiento inspiraron naturalmente a los artesanos del taller Métiers Rares® de Jaeger-LeCoultre. Dedicando una amplia gama de sus habilidades artesanales a su decoración, desde la pintura en miniatura y el grabado con láser hasta el trabajo de laca y la incrustación de meteoritos, han elevado el Atmos Hybris Mechanica Calibre 590 para convertirlo en una obra de arte sublime, así como en un cronometraje excepcional. dispositivo.

· Empujando los límites de la precisión y el diseño, el Atmos Hybris Mechanica Calibre 590 es el reloj Atmos más complejo jamás creado y requiere más de cuatro años de trabajo de investigación y desarrollo.

· El nuevo Calibre 590 incorpora una complicación que reproduce los ciclos reales de la Tierra, el Sol y la Luna

· Los artesanos del taller Métiers Rares® de Jaeger-LeCoultre dedicaron una amplia gama de habilidades artesanales a su decoración, transformando un extraordinario dispositivo de cronometraje en una obra de arte sublime

Medir el tiempo a medida que se mueven los planetas

En un principio, gracias al movimiento de las estrellas y los planetas, la humanidad se dio cuenta del paso del tiempo y comenzó a definirlo y medirlo. Los días, con períodos de luz y oscuridad, estaban definidos por una rotación completa de la Tierra sobre su eje; Los años se definían por el tiempo que tardaba el Sol en volver a la misma posición en el cielo, completando un ciclo completo de estaciones.

Durante milenios, los científicos inventaron instrumentos para reproducir estos ciclos y mejorar su comprensión de los fenómenos celestes. Los relojeros comenzaron a medir el tiempo utilizando los valores de los diversos ciclos astronómicos, aunque las unidades del tiempo civil estándar son solo aproximadas, basadas en los valores promedio de los ciclos solar, lunar y sideral. En 1543, Copérnico revolucionó el pensamiento científico con la publicación de su modelo heliocéntrico del sistema solar (primera hipótesis del astrónomo griego antiguo Aristarco de Samos, el modelo había sido descartado durante más de 1500 años a favor de un modelo centrado en la Tierra). El modelo heliocéntrico coloca al Sol, en lugar de a la Tierra, en el centro de nuestro sistema solar y su publicación desencadenó la invención del telurio (también escrito como telurio), un móvil mecánico tridimensional que ilustra las posiciones relativas y los movimientos de la Tierra y la Luna en relación con el Sol. Desde el siglo XVIII en adelante, los elaborados relojes fueron a veces coronados por estos fascinantes mecanismos. El apodo del Calibre 590, ‘Telurio’, es un tributo a esos magníficos relojes.

Inventado en 1928, el Atmos no necesita intervención humana para dar cuerda a su movimiento; una variación de temperatura de tan solo un grado centígrado proporciona energía suficiente para darle cuerda durante 48 horas, lo que le permite funcionar perpetuamente si se mantiene en las condiciones normales del día a día. Debido a que este notable sistema produce solo una pequeña cantidad de energía, unas 40 veces menos energía que la que normalmente ofrece un movimiento de reloj tradicional de 4 Hz, el movimiento Atmos ha sido diseñado para consumir la menor cantidad de energía posible, y el equilibrio tarda un minuto en realizar un movimiento completo. oscilación.

Con el tiempo, los relojeros de Jaeger-LeCoultre han superado el desafío de agregar funciones al mecanismo sin aumentar sustancialmente el consumo de energía. Al hacerlo, han descubierto que las complicaciones que mejor se adaptan a Atmos son las que se basan en ciclos más largos, como las estaciones, los meses y las fases de la luna.

Una nueva complicación y una pantalla cautivadora

El nuevo Calibre 590 se concibió, diseñó y fabricó íntegramente en la Manufactura Jaeger-LeCoultre y se ensambló en el atelier de Atmos, un taller dedicado exclusivamente a Atmos. Compuesto por 443 componentes, con la complicación de telurio completamente integrada en el movimiento, requirió más de cuatro años de investigación y desarrollo; su complejidad técnica y sofisticación, naturalmente, merecen un lugar en la colección Hybris Mechanica de Jaeger-LeCoultre. Además de reproducir con precisión la rotación de la Tierra sobre su propio eje, y las órbitas de la Luna alrededor de la Tierra y de la Tierra alrededor del Sol, el nuevo calibre indica los meses y estaciones correspondientes con un calendario zodiacal.

La esfera del reloj está definida por un anillo periférico formado por dos capas. La capa superior, fija en su lugar, está marcada con una pista de horas y minutos y los nombres de las estaciones; éste oculta un anillo móvil marcado con los meses, que aparecen en una ventanilla a las 6 h. Dentro de este marco hay un disco de cristal de zafiro azul translúcido, grabado con láser con los signos del zodiaco. En el centro de la esfera, el sol está representado por un estallido de rayos de metal dorado pulido.

Cerca del anillo periférico, equilibrado por un contrapeso en forma de cuña, un círculo de meteorito enmarca un disco de zafiro transparente en el que se encuentran una Tierra y una Luna esféricas. La Tierra gira sobre su eje en 24 horas, la duración de un día civil, proporcionando una indicación de día y noche a medida que gira. Al mismo tiempo, la Luna orbita la Tierra en un mes sinódico, girando sobre su propio eje para mostrar sus fases. Definido por un ciclo completo de fases lunares, un mes sinódico medio tiene una duración de 29 días, 12 horas, 44 minutos y 2 segundos. Esta duración media (o promedio) permite la ligera variación causada por la forma elíptica de la órbita de la Luna. El mecanismo del Atmos está tan cerca de este medio que crea solo un día de error en 5.770 años.

Todo este disco de la Tierra y la Luna orbita alrededor del Sol central, haciendo una rotación completa en un año solar (o “tropical”), indicando las estaciones a medida que gira. Los relojeros de Jaeger-LeCoultre han logrado establecer un ciclo de 365,2466 días. Esto está tan cerca del valor de referencia de 365,2425 días que se encuentra en el calendario gregoriano que varía solo un día en 390 años, lo que significa que no necesitará ajustarse hasta el año 2412 (el único ajuste es el cambio estacional).

Totalmente visible desde todos los ángulos, todo el mecanismo parece flotar en el espacio dentro de su gabinete cilíndrico de vidrio. De hecho, está sostenido y unido a la base por una campana de cristal prácticamente invisible, que también encierra el volante anular. Al igual que el cuerpo principal del movimiento, la balanza también parece flotar mientras realiza su baile lento y fascinante. explica Lionel Favre, director de diseño de Jaeger-LeCoultre.

Naturalmente, este extraordinario mecanismo ha inspirado a los artesanos del taller Métiers Rares® de Jaeger-LeCoultre a dedicar una amplia gama de sus habilidades artesanales a su decoración. La pintura en miniatura agrega detalle y profundidad a la Tierra esférica; el grabado láser evoca la superficie de la Luna; la laca aporta un rico brillo al anillo de la esfera principal; y meteorito – material que literalmente ha caído del espacio – está incrustado en el anillo Tierra-Luna; y la vitrina ha sido pintada a mano con una delicada representación de las constelaciones.

El reloj Atmos más complejo jamás creado, el nuevo Atmos Hybris Mechanica Calibre 590 supera los límites de la precisión y el diseño un paso más allá con un mecanismo perpetuo complementado con un telurio que perpetúa el tiempo hasta casi el infinito. Muestra este notable logro en forma de una verdadera obra de arte.

DETALLES TÉCNICOS

ATMOS HYBRIS MECHANICA CALIBRE 590

Dimensiones : 215 mm de diámetro x 253 mm de altura

Calibre : Perpetuo Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 590

Frecuencia : balanza anular con oscilación de 60 segundos

Funciones : horas, minutos, día y noche, mes, fases lunares, calendario zodiacal

Gabinete : vidrio cilíndrico pintado a mano con las constelaciones

Acabados decorativos : incrustaciones de meteorito; grabado; pintura en miniatura; barniz

Referencia : Q5765300 – Edición limitada de 10 piezas

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Watches and Wonders Geneva 2022 – 30 days to go: the countdown has begun!

Watches and Wonders Geneva 2022 – 30 days to go: the countdown has begun!

The moment journalists, retailers and clients of the 38 exhibiting Maisons have been waiting for… Watches and Wonders Geneva will finally open its doors on 30 March 2022, for a week filled with exciting discoveries. A vast digital system has been set up to allow invited guests and the general public to follow online either live or via replay all the action of the Salon, which is already shaping up to be THE watch industry event of the year.

While the press, retailers and guests invited to the Salon can already plan their personalized program on the watchesandwonders.com platform, in Geneva the excitement is reaching a fever pitch. The set-up of the different exhibition areas is already underway to ensure that visitors can be welcomed while respecting health measures. In the surrounding manufactures and ateliers, the watchmakers are putting the final details to the new watches and jewelry collections that will be unveiled by the Maisons on March 30.

For its first physical event under the name Watches and Wonders Geneva – since last year’s event was entirely digital – the Salon will focus on major launches, previews, exceptional pieces and numerous new wonders. Aside from being featured in the Touch & Feel sessions, products will also be at the heart of discussions over many organized events, such as the Morning Show, the panel discussions and the innovative projects unveiled in the LAB.

Broadcast live from the Salon every morning at 8 am CET on the watchesandwonders.com platform and on its YouTube channel, The Morning Show will be presented this year by Olivia Chang, a renowned business journalist. She will host this first morning program with cross conversations between brand leaders and industry

experts to follow the news of the Salon and decipher new trends. She will be back again at 7 pm CET on the Late Show, a new rendez-vous that will review the day’s highlights. Also broadcast live and in replay, the program will feature a different guest each day, who will be invited to share his or her favorites from the Salon. The Late Show will also offer a summary of the keynotes from the Maisons held in the Auditorium, along with highlights of the exceptional pieces being unveiled by the 38 exhibiting brands.

A daily 45-minute panel discussion, hosted by watchmaking experts and other influential personalities, will explore the issue of sustainable development in greater depth. This theme, a particularly hot topic at the moment, will be addressed from different angles, such as transparency, responsible sourcing, innovation and the circular economy. Broadcast live from the Salon at 1 pm CET on the watchesandwonders.com platform and on its YouTube channel, the program will also be available in replay.

Located in the center of the Salon, facing the Carré des Horlogers, the LAB has been designed as an ideas laboratory. This space, showcasing nearly 15 projects, will present the technological and digital innovations of the exhibiting Maisons. Highlighting eco- responsible sourcing practices, upcycling, the use of new materials, new energy sources and strategic partnerships with sustainable associations and organizations, the various initiatives will enable visitors to discover all these innovations and gain a better understanding of NFTs (Non-Fungible Token) and the world of metaverse.

Watches and Culture will also curate the ‘Time Design’ exhibition dedicated to the evolution of wristwatch design through the ages. Imagined as a journey through watchmaking creativity and illustrated by more than 100 timepieces presented in showcases designed by students of ECAL (École d’art de Lausanne), the event will also pay tribute to the work of Mr. Gérald Genta. Five pieces produced by students of the HEAD art & design school in Geneva will invite visitors to question the display of time, while an augmented reality experience will immerse the viewer in the history of a few watchmaking icons.

A broadcasting area consisting of two fully equipped studios will be available for the Maisons who wish to stay in touch with those journalists who are unable to travel to Geneva. In addition, booths equipped with a VISIODOME, a system that proved its worth last year as an optimized way of presenting products remotely, will allow the Maisons to share their latest creations with a larger audience.

Everyone is working hard to make this long-awaited edition the greatest watchmaking summit ever held in Geneva! Just 30 days to go before discovering new watches and jewelry releases, previews, major announcements, exceptional pieces and other innovations. See you on March 30!

EXHIBITING MAISONS | A. LANGE & SÖHNE | BAUME & MERCIER | CARTIER | CHANEL | CHOPARD | GRAND SEIKO | HERMÈS | HUBLOT | IWC SCHAFFHAUSEN | JAEGER-LECOULTRE | MONTBLANC | ORIS | PANERAI | PARMIGIANI FLEURIER | PATEK PHILIPPE | PIAGET | ROGER DUBUIS | ROLEX | TAG HEUER | TUDOR | ULYSSE NARDIN | VACHERON CONSTANTIN | VAN CLEEF & ARPELS | ZENITH

CARRÉ DES HORLOGERS | ANGELUS | ARMIN STROM | ARNOLD & SON | CYRUS GENÈVE | CZAPEK & CIE | FERDINAND BERTHOUD | H. MOSER & CIE. | LAURENT FERRIER | LOUIS MOINET | REBELLION TIMEPIECES | RESSENCE | RUDIS SYLVA | SPEAKE-MARIN | TRILOBE

Learn more at watchesandwonders.com

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HUBLOT presenta una edición Orange Carbon del Big Bang Unico Golf

HUBLOT presenta una edición Orange Carbon del Big Bang Unico Golf

El primer reloj mecánico del mundo diseñado para el universo del golf con ventana de puntuación ha vuelto, esta vez en carbono naranja

Nyon, 2022.– ¡Hublot loves golf! Estamos sumamente orgullosos de presentarles hoy, durante LVMH Watch Week 2022, el Big Bang Unico Golf Orange Carbon, un reloj completamente mecánico para el golf que puede llevar la cuenta de sus puntuaciones a lo largo de un recorrido de 18 hoyos.

 

En 2017, en colaboración con Dustin Johnson, el golfista más exitoso de su generación, presentamos el primer reloj mecánico del mundo creado específicamente para el golf: el Big Bang Unico Golf. La mayoría de los relojes diseñados para el golf son digitales, pero este modelo fabricado en Suiza traslada el disfrute de la mecánica relojera a las muñecas de los golfistas.

Desarrollamos un módulo para nuestro movimiento UNICO de modo que, mediante tres aberturas, el reloj muestre a los golfistas en qué hoyo se encuentran, cuántos golpes han efectuado en ese hoyo y su puntuación acumulada en la ronda. El Big Bang Unico Golf Orange Carbon continúa la historia y reviste el movimiento Hublot MHUB1580 automático con carbono ligero de un ácido color naranja.

¡Adoramos el golf y nos encanta Dustin Johnson! La combinación de este gran deporte, este increíble campeón y este excepcional reloj mecánico para el golf continúa entusiasmándonos y estamos sumamente orgullosos de presentar esta nueva versión de lo que se ha convertido en un icono en el mundo del golf y de la relojería suiza. En Hublot nos esforzamos por ser los primeros, únicos y diferentes en todo lo que hacemos, al igual que Dustin y que el Big Bang Unico Golf Orange Carbon. ¡Gracias, Dustin!»

Ricardo Guadalupe

CEO de Hublot

El Big Bang Unico Golf Orange Carbon de 45 mm es fácil de utilizar. El mecanismo de recuento de los golpes se activa mediante un botón amarillo con forma de putter situado a las 2 en punto, que también avanza el contador de golpes amarillo visible a través de una abertura situada a las 3 en punto. Cuando llegue el momento de avanzar al siguiente hoyo, otro botón con forma de putter situado a las 4 en punto pone el contador de golpes a cero y avanza en un hoyo el indicador situado a las 9 en punto. La puntuación acumulada aumenta un punto con cada golpe registrado y se muestra a través de una abertura situada a las 6 en punto.

 

Al final de la ronda, el visor puede ponerse a cero mediante el botón situado a las 8 en punto. Este botón puede bloquearse girándolo 45 grados para evitar reiniciar la puntuación accidentalmente durante una ronda. Gracias al diseño esqueletizado del reloj, que permite apreciar el funcionamiento interno del movimiento, cada operación se visualiza mediante una enigmática danza de componentes que se mueven en una coreografía precisa, al igual que un buen swing en el golf.

Me encanta este reloj. Es bello y complejo por un lado, pero también extremadamente ligero y fácil de utilizar. Los jugadores pueden llegar a darle demasiadas vueltas al golf, cuando lo mejor es relajarse y simplemente jugar. Este reloj logra plasmar algo de esa filosofía; es el tipo de instrumento que pausa todo e incita a mantener la calma durante la partida. Lo que más me gusta es observar que la misma habilidad, paciencia y disciplina que se necesita para alcanzar este estado en el campo también puede apreciarse en la fabricación de un reloj tan técnico e inteligente. Creo que es un reloj espectacular y estoy muy orgulloso de añadirlo a mi colección.

Gracias, Hublot, por otro gran reloj y por nuestra continua alianza.»

Dustin Johnson

Embajador de Hublot

El Big Bang Unico Golf Orange Carbon dispone de una reserva de marcha de 72 horas, cuenta con una correa naranja de tela de alta tecnología con el sistema intercambio One Click de Hublot, pesa menos de 100 gramos y ofrece una resistencia al agua de hasta 100 metros. Esta edición limitada, ya disponible, constará de 100 ejemplares.

HUBLOT

Fundada en Suiza en 1980, HUBLOT se distingue por el concepto innovador resultante de la asociación inédita del oro y el caucho: el «Arte de la Fusión» nace de la imaginación visionaria de su presidente, Jean-Claude Biver, y está impulsado por la habilidad de Ricardo Guadalupe, CEO de la marca desde 2012.

El nacimiento en 2005 del icónico modelo Big Bang, galardonado en varias ocasiones, abrió el camino a nuevas colecciones insignia (Classic Fusion, Spirit of Big Bang), cuyas complicaciones —desde las más sencillas hasta las más sofisticadas— portan el excepcional ADN de la Manufactura relojera suiza, que disfruta de un crecimiento esplendoroso.

Respetuosa con la preservación de un savoir-faire tradicional pero siempre actualizado y guiada por su filosofía

«Be First, Different and Unique», la firma relojera suiza hace gala de estar permanentemente a la vanguardia mediante la innovación en materiales (Magic Gold u oro irrayable, cerámicas de vivos colores, zafiro) y la creación de movimientos manufactura (Unico, Meca-10, Tourbillon).

Entre el pasado y el presente, HUBLOT apuesta por un futuro visionario para una marca de Alta Relojería: el de la fusión con los grandes eventos de nuestra época (FIFA World CupTM, UEFA Champions League, UEFA EUROTM) y con los mejores embajadores del momento (Chiara Ferragni, Kylian Mbappé, Usain Bolt, Pelé, Novak Djokovic).

Sumérjase en el universo de HUBLOT en nuestra red de boutiques situadas en grandes ciudades de todo el mundo: Ginebra, París, Londres, Nueva York, Hong Kong, Dubái, Tokio, Singapur, Zurich y en HUBLOT.com

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Vacheron Constantin – High Watchmaking: Astronomical watches

Vacheron Constantin

High Watchmaking: Astronomical watches

  • Horology stems from the observation and study of the stars dating right back to the earliest ancient civilisations
  • Twenty years after its foundation in 1755, the first watches with astronomical indications appeared at Vacheron Constantin.
  • The Manufacture has developed a rare breed of expertise in Grand Complication watches dedicated to the movement and influence of the moon, stars and planets.

Geneva, November 17th 2021 – Horology, the science of time measurement, was born from the observations of heavenly bodies and natural cycles. The mechanical instruments developed by horologists stem from these observations, reflecting an art that has continued to progress since the late Middle Ages. Founded in 1755, Vacheron Constantin developed a perfect mastery of astronomical indications at a very early stage, progressively enriching it over the two and a half centuries of the Manufacture’s existence. Today, the Maison produces watchmaking masterpieces of great astronomical complexity.

Astronomical watches remind us of the origins of watchmaking. Born of the observation of the great physical laws of Nature, the measurement of time is in fact a material extrapolation of the movement of the stars and cycles. This mechanically translated interpretation has given rise across the ages to timepieces capable of offering a wide variety of functions, and of varying degrees of complexity, linked to the singularities of the Gregorian calendar, to the various temporalities governing our universe, or to the motion of heavenly bodies and their impact on the Earth. Although many of these functions are not of practical use, they nonetheless testify to expertise that is all the rarer in that it lends a cosmological dimension to these watches forming a link between humankind and the universe. From its earliest days, Vacheron Constantin has shown great interest in watches with astronomical functions, including various types of calendar displays and indications of the phases and age of the Moon, often combined with other horological complications. Since the 2000s, this technical mastery has been illustrated in particular through its Les Cabinotiers department, whose astronomical watches are masterpieces of their kind.

Astronomical functions

The astronomical functions of a wristwatch include indications related to the particularities of the Gregorian calendar, as well as a wide variety of displays related to the movement of the stars. In addition to the main functions listed below, the most complex of them may offer a system for predicting lunar and solar eclipses, the position of the stars as seen from the Earth, displays of the ephemerides (solstices, equinoxes, seasons), the signs of the zodiac, a tideograph, sunrise and sunset, the duration of day and night, the annual deviation or angular movement of the Moon, etc. All this bearing in mind that a good number of these functions are valid exclusively for a given location. The most “common” astronomical watches include one or more of the following indications.

  • Calendars

A simple calendar watch is a watch that, in addition to the time, provides calendar information – usually the date – but whose mechanism does not automatically keep step with the irregularity of successive months. When such a calendar also provides indications including the day of the week, phases of the moon and even the year, it is called a complete calendar. This type of complication requires five adjustments per year. Unlike a simple calendar, an annual calendar automatically takes into account the irregularity of 30- or 31-day months, except for February, meaning that manual adjustment is required on March 1st each year. A perpetual calendar, on the other hand, indicates calendar functions such as the date, month and day of the week, taking into account months with 28, 30 or 31 days, as well as leap years.

  • Moon phases

The moon-phase indication is frequently associated with the perpetual calendar. It serves to reproduce the cycle of Earth’s satellite (new Moon, first quarter, full Moon, last quarter) on the watch dial. The phases of the Moon should not be confused with the age of the Moon which indicates the time (in days) elapsed since the last new Moon.

  • Equation of time

The equation of time is defined by the difference between solar time – or true time – and civil time – or mean time. The former is the time as shown on a sundial, while the latter is the time displayed on a watch. The difference between the two ranges from -16 minutes to +14 minutes and occurs during the course of the year, due to the Earth’s elliptical orbit and the tilt of its axis.

  • Sidereal time

The time it takes for the Earth to complete one full spin on its axis (360°) is 23 hours, 56 minutes, 4 seconds, and is called the sidereal day. Because of the Earth’s revolution around the Sun and its rotation on its own axis, the solar day – the time difference between two passages of the Sun through the zenith point (meridian) – lasts a few extra minutes. Using a fixed star in the sky instead of the Sun as a reference point, this sidereal time is used as a basis for astronomical observations.

  • Sky map

The sky chart is a planispherical representation on a disc or dial of the sky at a given location on the globe. This surface is rotated at a rate of one revolution per year – thereby offering a ‘snapshot’ of the sky at a given time – or of one revolution per sidereal day, which provides a view of the sky in real time.

Advanced mechanics

The perpetual calendar is often considered one of horology’s finest gems for its ability to display the exact date for an all but infinite duration (with the exception of secular years not divisible by 400), taking into account the variable length of the months and the leap-year cycle. To accomplish this mechanical feat, the movement must have a “memory” of 1,461 days, equivalent to four years. The essential component of these mechanisms is the month cam on which the different monthly durations are programmed. Equation of time mechanisms are also governed by a cam – which is in this case asymmetrical, performs one revolution in a year and features a shape derived from the analemma.

This results in a one-day discrepancy for this type of mechanism that must be corrected every 2 years and 7 months. Watches with a precision moon-phase display have a wheel with 135 teeth. With this system, the deviation from the lunar cycle is reduced to one day every 122 years. Another astral representation is the rotating sky chart, of which the visible part corresponding to the skyline is delimited by an ellipse, and which generally makes one revolution in one day in order to offer a vision of the sky in real time.

This rotation is calculated according to sidereal time, which is 3 minutes and 56 seconds shorter than the average day. Technically, the simplest solution consists of integrating two kinetic chains in the movement, from the barrel to the regulating organ, the first beating at the mean solar time rate of one revolution in 24 hours and the second at the slightly faster sidereal time rate of one revolution in 23 hours, 56 minutes and 4 seconds.

Astronomical paternity

The appearance of megalithism around 5000 BC owes nothing to chance. These thousands of precisely oriented stone monuments – of which one of the best-known is the circle of menhirs at Stonehenge – are regarded as the first astronomical observatories. It was however not until around 4200 BC that these first observations took on a more scientific nature, when the birth of writing played a decisive role by making it possible to record events, perform calculations, establish chronologies and make forecasts. Writing appeared in Mesopotamia, and gradually became established in Egypt in the following century – and then some 2,000 years later in China and the Mayan Empire. Each great civilisation then set about developing its own calendar based on the visible movement of the Sun or the Moon, or both.

It was the Mesopotamians, around 2400 BC, who invented a common unit of measurement for calculating distances and time, which is still the basis of our sexagesimal system of degrees of angle and minutes today. This spatialisation of time was decisive when it came to sequencing it according to the course of the stars. The development of mechanical engineering, which already emerged at the time of Aristotle, was thus able to give shape to the counting of time and its astronomical dimension. As soon as the first clocks appeared in the 13th and 14th centuries, mechanical horologists set out to reproduce on dials the movements of the solar system’s main planets. The pocket watches of the Renaissance were direct heirs to these large astronomical clocks. Well before the invention of the minutes hand, these watches already indicated the time, the date, the days of the week, the months and their duration, the moon phases and the signs of the zodiac. These astronomical watches, which were very popular in the 17th century, are still considered to be models of their kind today.

From that time onwards, ingenious watchmakers redoubled their efforts to make their mechanisms more accurate – resulting in the appearance of minutes and then seconds hands – and more compact. This miniaturisation naturally made it difficult to depict certain astronomical functions, except for the date and its most sophisticated perpetual calendar interpretation, accompanied by a moon-phase display. As of the 19th century, any Grand Complication watch had to incorporate a mechanism capable of following the irregularities of the Gregorian calendar. At that time, some exceptional pocket watches also reproduced celestial mechanics by displaying the equation of time, sunrise and sunset times or sidereal time. These functions can be found in the highly complicated timepieces of the first half of the 20th century. The advent of the wristwatch, however, put a stop to these technical masterpieces – while nonetheless not provoking their complete disappearance. Since the revival of the mechanical watch at the end of the 1980s, the astronomical watch has enjoyed a clear resurgence in interest and currently represents a supreme demonstration of expertise.

 

Vacheron Constantin and calendar watches

The first mention of a pocket watch in Vacheron Constantin’s records dates back to a period prior to 1773, i.e. the early years of the workshop founded by Jean-Marc Vacheron in 1755. A decade later, the range of complications developed under the leadership of Jean-Marc’s son Abraham Vacheron, notably exemplified by the first complete calendar dating from 1785 and appearing on a brass dial with a floral motif. The archives of the Maison accurately retrace this progressive mastery of astronomical complications, beginning in 1829 with the first recorded order for a watch featuring a simple calendar and moon phases, and again in 1884 for a perpetual calendar integrated into a double-sided yellow gold pocket watch now belonging to Vacheron Constantin’s private collection. This achievement marked the beginning of an epic mechanical saga that was to take on greater significance at the turn of the century.

As early as 1900, the company set up a workshop exclusively dedicated to the assembly of watches with complications, and orders poured in for complicated and even very complicated watches. The perpetual calendar was thus combined with other technical feats, as in this 1901 pink gold pocket watch incorporating a minute repeater, chronograph and perpetual calendar with phases and age of the moon. This masterpiece of mechanical artistry typifying Grand Complication watches prefigures the historic golden age of complicated watches at Vacheron Constantin. An era that culminated in the 1920s and 1930s, notably with the astronomical pocket watch made in 1929 for King Fouad I of Egypt. This masterful timepiece combines a split-seconds chronograph, a perpetual calendar, a minute repeater and a Grande and Petite Sonnerie mechanism.

The heyday of the perpetual calendar

Throughout most of the 20th century, Vacheron Constantin remained faithful to its classic and elegant approach to horological complications, including the perpetual calendar in pocket watches until the 1960s. These decades were thus punctuated by a number of exceptional creations, including this gold pocket watch from 1946 with minute repeater, chronograph and perpetual calendar displaying the phases and age of the moon. Elegance was notably expressed by models featuring impressive slimness made possible by their thin movements. In 1955, Vacheron Constantin had already presented its manual-winding Calibre 1003, which was barely 1.64 mm thick, a real feat. Some 12 years later, the company achieved a new feat – this time in the field of self-winding movements – with its Calibre 1120 measuring 2.45 mm thick. It was this specific movement, skeletonised for the occasion, that served as the basis for the first perpetual calendar (Calibre 1120 QP) housed in an ultra-thin wristwatch introduced by Vacheron Constantin in 1983.

While complete calendars, triple calendars with moon phases and retrograde calendar indications are part of the grand traditions of the Maison, the perpetual calendar remains one of its preferred complications, currently interpreted in the Patrimony, Traditionnelle and Overseas collections. This inclination has notably been reflected in a major new model presented in 2019 with the Traditionnelle Twin Beat perpetual calendar . With its two going trains operating at different rhythms, the watch can be slowed down to a “resting position” ensuring at least 65 days of power reserve. In its “classic” version, the perpetual calendar also remains a basic function of grand complication mechanisms, an unchanging tradition at Vacheron Constantin. In recent years, the Manufacture has distinguished itself with timepieces whose complexity has become an art in itself, such as the Tour de l’île with its 16 watchmaking and astronomical complications, produced in 2005 for the 250th anniversary of the Maison. Ten years later, for its 260th anniversary, Vacheron Constantin presented another timepiece destined to make watchmaking history, the Reference 57260 and its 57 complications, making this one-of-a-kind model the most complicated watch in the world.

Astronomy at its peak

At Vacheron Constantin, mastery of astronomical functions is by no means confined to calendar functions. In the world of pocket watches, the Manufacture responded at an early stage to specific requests from customers and collectors who were particularly sensitive to this dimension of watchmaking. In 1890, for example, at the request of a Parisian client, the Manufacture created a watch indicating sidereal time. Some 20 years later, the company archives mention a movement blank designed to power a display of true solar time, associated with a simple calendar as well as sunrise and sunset indications. The year 1919 was also marked by the delivery of a perpetual calendar movement with moon phases, sunrise and sunset and retrograde equation of time, a true mechanical rarity. This tradition of astronomical indications based on the course of the stars – which been put on hold for a time due to the miniaturisation requirements of the wristwatch – has made a major comeback in the Maison’s collections since the powerful late 20th century craze for mechanical watches and has been further strengthened since the creation of the Les Cabinotiers department.

Responsible for special orders and exceptional creations for the Maison in the form of one-of-a-kind timepieces, this department has produced veritable masterpieces in the field of astronomical watches with highly sophisticated complications. Among these is the Celestia Astronomical grand complication 3600 (2017) and its 23 functions inspired by astronomy, including a reading of civil, solar and sidereal time. This same reading is found on the Astronomical striking grand complication – Ode to music (2020) and its 19 essentially astronomical functions coupled with a minute repeater. The theme chosen for the Les Cabinotiers watches introduced in 2021 was Le Temps Céleste (celestial time), masterfully expressed through three exceptional timepieces. Among them are the Armillary perpetual calendar – Planetaria watch, featuring a jumping retrograde perpetual calendar regulated by a double-axis tourbillon and complemented by a 3D depiction of the two hemispheres for the 24-hour and day/night indications. Expressed at this level, astronomical complications are undoubtedly both science and art.

A beautiful tribute

In the 19th century, Vacheron Constantin’s reputation was well established, particularly in the world of accuracy, which earned the company numerous prizes for excellence in chronometry (precision timekeeping) awarded by the Geneva Observatory, among others. The Manufacture’s customers therefore increasingly placed orders for timepieces meeting their needs, which were strictly formulated when it comes to astronomical observations. A letter addressed to Vacheron Constantin on February 24th 1853 by Count Hyppolite Salino, secretary of the Sardinian Legation in Paris, features a request for a thermometer and date watch: “(…) as I intend to use this watch for astronomical observations, I would like it to be a true chronometer, crafted with the perfection that the works emerging from your workshops come so close to attaining”. A glowing tribute to the watchmaking excellence of Vacheron Constantin.

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Watch selection

Double-sided yellow gold pocket watch with 48-month perpetual calendar and moon phases –1884

This is the first recorded Vacheron Constantin pocket watch to incorporate a perpetual calendar and features a double-sided display. The display of time including small seconds appears on the front enamel dial with Roman numerals and external minute-track, while the perpetual calendar is displayed on four counters visible through the transparent caseback. The vertical axis features the date and the day of the week, while the age and phases of the moon appear on the horizontal axis opposite the month display. This subdial divided into four quarters is staggered over 48 months with the leap year indicated by the same hand. This timepiece is all the more remarkable in that it won a First Prize for chronometry at the Geneva Observatory competition.

Grand Complication yellow gold pocket watch with tourbillon, perpetual calendar, moon phases and split-seconds chronograph – 1931

This extremely complicated watch is a collector’s item. A very rare model for its time, it displays a perpetual calendar with the age and phases of the moon, together with a split-seconds chronograph as well as a 32-hour power reserve indication. Regulated by a tourbillon, which can be seen by lifting the cover protecting the caseback, this watch won First Prize in the 1934 Geneva Observatory competition. Produced in 1931, it is a perfect example of the golden age that Vacheron Constantin experienced at that time in the production of pocket watches with multiple complications, perfect readability and infallible chronometry.

King Farouk yellow gold Grand Complication pocket watch – 1934

One of the most complicated watches of its time. This imposing model – measuring 80 millimetres in diameter and which took more than five years to complete – is equipped with 13 hands. Its calibre incorporates 820 components that drive 14 complications. This double going-train watch in 18K yellow gold was presented to King Farouk of Egypt in 1946 and remained in his collection until 1954. It includes a chiming minute repeater and Grande and Petite Sonnerie equipped with three gongs and three hammers, a split-seconds chronograph with a 30-minute counter, a perpetual calendar, an indication of the phases and age of the moon, an alarm clock and two power-reserve indicators.

“Cioccolatone” yellow gold square curved wristwatch with triple calendar and moon phases – 1954

In the 1950s, post-war exuberance led to new forms of design that were both functional and unrestrained. Vacheron Constantin’s response to this new trend took the form of this large, organically square wristwatch with rounded lugs and bezel, as well as a slightly curved case. Nicknamed “Cioccolatone”, this watch has become an iconic symbol of the design typical of that period. Introduced at the beginning of the decade, it has been interpreted through several variations, including this most emblematic Reference 4764 with triple calendar and moon phases.

Ultra-thin platinum wristwatch with perpetual calendar and moon phases – 1988

At the height of the hegemony of quartz watches in the 1980s, Vacheron Constantin took a gamble on the mechanical watch by producing this complication watch, the first perpetual calendar with moon phases on a wristwatch from the Maison, which was also offered in an ultra-thin version. This model played an important role in the renewed interest in high-end watchmaking and its complicated mechanical watches. Presented in 1983, this reference –interpreted through several iterations including a skeleton version – remained in production until 2006. The watch is particularly elegant thanks to its movement measuring barely 4.05 mm thick: the ultra-thin Calibre 1120 QP complete with date module.

Les Cabinotiers Celestia Astronomical Grand Complication 3600 – 2017

The unique double-sided Celestia Astronomical Grand Complication 3600 combines astronomy and the art of watchmaking in a “celestial” white gold composition. The watch incorporates 23 mainly astronomical horological complications appearing on both sides of the case, offering a reading of the time in three different modes – civil, solar and sidereal – each driven by its own gear train. Its new fully integrated calibre has nearly 514 components housed in a thickness of barely 8.7 mm, while six barrels guarantee it a three-week autonomy.

Les Cabinotiers Tourbillon armillary perpetual calendar – Planetaria – 2021

Equipped with the new manual-winding Calibre 1991, the result of four years of development, this one-of-a-kind timepiece features a perpetual calendar with a retrograde display of the date, day and month. It also features a rare 3D depiction representing the Earth’s Northern and Southern hemispheres. The two titanium globes perform a complete rotation in 24 hours complete with a day/night indication. The movement is regulated by a dual-axis tourbillon whose interlocking cages move at a speed of 60 seconds per rotation.

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Watches and Wonders Geneva 2022

Watches and Wonders Geneva 2022

 Cerca de 40 casas de relojería para exponer en el Salón físico

Después de dos ediciones completamente digitales, se confirma que el evento clave de la industria relojera tendrá lugar en Ginebra, tanto en formato físico, en los pasillos de Palexpo, como digitalmente, a través de la plataforma watchandwonders.com. Casi 40 marcas de relojería y joyería se reunirán en esta cumbre de la relojería por primera vez durante 7 días, del 30 de marzo al 5 de abril de 2022.

La próxima Watches and Wonders Geneva, que se espera con impaciencia después de dos años de estar completamente online, ya se perfila para 2022. Más que una feria, esta cumbre relojera reunirá a los principales actores de la industria, con la llegada de nuevas marcas como como Hublot, TAG Heuer y Zenith del Grupo LVMH, Grand
Seiko, Oris y el joyero Van Cleef & Arpels que regresa al Salón.

Marcas de renombre como Chanel, Chopard, Patek Philippe, Rolex y Tudor también expondrán por primera vez en Ginebra. Por no hablar de otras importantes maisons, como Cartier, Hermès, IWC Schaffhausen, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Piaget, Ulysse Nardin y Vacheron Constantin, habituales desde hace muchos años.

Todos estos jugadores vibrarán al ritmo de una emocionante semana de la industria relojera y se presentarán en un solo escenario en Palexpo. El Carré des Horlogers acogerá a quince diseñadores-artesanos independientes en el centro de la exposición.

Un concepto híbrido y flexible.

Después de demostrar su agilidad en los dos últimos eventos, Watches and Wonders Geneva se está moviendo hacia un formato híbrido para que los visitantes puedan sobre todo tener una experiencia presencial pero también participar en línea, dependiendo del contexto cambiante de la pandemia.

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Todo se ha pensado y organizado para garantizar que las presentaciones de productos, los lanzamientos de nuevos productos, las conferencias magistrales, las mesas redondas y las conferencias puedan ser seguidas en Ginebra por los visitantes in situ, pero también por aquellos que no pueden viajar, de forma remota, a través de www.watchesandwonders.com. Todo el contenido estará disponible en línea, en vivo o en repetición.

Pero nada puede reemplazar la experiencia en persona. Los actores de la industria han manifestado claramente su deseo de reunirse en torno a los productos. Quieren que sus invitados puedan ver y tocar las piezas excepcionales, discutir, debatir e interactuar en el sitio.

Relojes y maravillas Ginebra 2022 promete una vez más ser un gran éxito pero también un maravilloso reencuentro. ¡Ya sea en Ginebra o en cualquier otro lugar del mundo, programe una fecha para esta cumbre de la relojería líder, del 30 de marzo al 5 de abril de 2022!

EXHIBITING BRANDS | A. LANGE & SÖHNE | BAUME & MERCIER |

CARTIER | CHANEL | CHOPARD | GRAND SEIKO | HERMÈS | HUBLOT | IWC SCHAFFHAUSEN | JAEGER-LECOULTRE | MONTBLANC | ORIS | PANERAI | PARMIGIANI FLEURIER | PATEK PHILIPPE | PIAGET | ROGER DUBUIS | ROLEX | TAG HEUER | TUDOR | ULYSSE NARDIN | VACHERON CONSTANTIN | VAN CLEEF & ARPELS | ZENITH CARRÉ DES HORLOGERS | ANGELUS | ARMIN STROM | ARNOLD & SON | CYRUS | CZAPEK | FERDINAND BERTHOUD | GRÖNEFELD | MOSER & CIE. | LAURENT FERRIER | LOUIS MOINET REBELLION TIMEPIECES | RESSENCE | RUDIS SYLVA | SPEAKE-MARIN | TRILOBE

More information at watchesandwonders.com

After two entirely digital editions, the key watchmaking industry event is confirmed to take place in Geneva both in a physical format – in the halls of Palexpo – and digitally, via the watchandwonders.com platform. Nearly 40 watch and jewellery brands will gather at this watchmaking summit for the first time over 7 days – from 30 March to 5 April 2022.

The next Watches and Wonders Geneva, which is eagerly awaited after two years of being entirely online, is already shaping up for 2022. More than a trade show, this watchmaking summit will bring together the main industry players, with the arrival of new brands such as Hublot, TAG Heuer and Zenith from the LVMH Group, Grand Seiko, Oris and the jeweller Van Cleef & Arpels who is making its return to the Salon.

Reputed brands such as Chanel, Chopard, Patek Philippe, Rolex and Tudor will also be exhibiting for the first time in Geneva. Not to mention other major Maisons, such as Cartier, Hermès, IWC Schaffhausen, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Piaget, Ulysse Nardin and Vacheron Constantin, who have been regulars for many years.

All these players will vibrate to the rhythm of a thrilling watch-industry week and will be showcased in one single setting at Palexpo. The Carré des Horlogers will welcome fifteen independent designer-craftsmen and women at the centre of the exhibition.

A hybrid, flexible concept.

After proving its agility over the last two events, Watches and Wonders Geneva is moving to a hybrid format so that visitors can above all have a face-to-face experience but also participate on line, depending on the changing context of the pandemic.

Everything has been thought through and organised to ensure that the product presentations, new product launches, keynotes, panel discussions and conferences be followed in Geneva by visitors onsite, but also, for those who are unable to travel, remotely, via the www.watchesandwonders.com platform. All the content will be available online, live or in replay.

But nothing can ever replace in-person experience. Industry players have clearly stated their desire to get together around the products. They want their guests to be able to see and touch the exceptional pieces, to discuss, debate and interact on site.

Watches and Wonders Geneva 2022 promises once again to be a great success but also a wonderful reunion. Whether in Geneva or elsewhere in the world, make a date for this leading watchmaking summit, from 30 March to 5 April 2022!

EXHIBITING BRANDS | A. LANGE & SÖHNE | BAUME & MERCIER |

CARTIER | CHANEL | CHOPARD | GRAND SEIKO | HERMÈS | HUBLOT | IWC SCHAFFHAUSEN | JAEGER-LECOULTRE | MONTBLANC | ORIS | PANERAI | PARMIGIANI FLEURIER | PATEK PHILIPPE | PIAGET | ROGER DUBUIS | ROLEX | TAG HEUER | TUDOR | ULYSSE NARDIN | VACHERON CONSTANTIN | VAN CLEEF & ARPELS | ZENITH CARRÉ DES HORLOGERS | ANGELUS | ARMIN STROM | ARNOLD & SON | CYRUS | CZAPEK | FERDINAND BERTHOUD | GRÖNEFELD | MOSER & CIE. | LAURENT FERRIER | LOUIS MOINET | REBELLION TIMEPIECES | RESSENCE | RUDIS SYLVA | SPEAKE-MARIN | TRILOBE

More information at watchesandwonders.com

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Red Carpet Collection – A jewellery ‘Paradise’

CHOPARD

Red Carpet Collection

A jewellery ‘Paradise’

It is a uniquely magical moment, the most glamorous event of the year. For the Cannes Festival, which Chopard has been officially partnering since 1998, the Maison’s workshops annually rise to a new pinnacle of creativity by reinventing the miracle of the Red Carpet Collection.

A stunning demonstration of jewellery-making prowess lighting up a lifelong passion for the cinema and paying tribute to the actresses who embody its radiant energy during the legendary ascent of the staircase. With the opening of the Cannes Festival on 6 July 2021, Chopard’s Co-President and Artistic Director, Caroline Scheufele, is unveiling all 74 creations composing this collection, themed around a fabulous haven of fantasy. Paradise expresses all the dreamy richness of which Caroline Scheufele is capable, flinging wide open the doors to the palaces of the imagination.

Theatre of dreams

Each piece of jewellery stems from an emotion, each culminating from an idea in a creation. Then comes the sketch, the mosaic of precious stones, colours like destinations, and a wild desire to share. For the opening of the Cannes Festival  (6 to 17 July) , Caroline Scheufele is unveiling the traditional Red Carpet Collection.. A creative universe whose texture and density unfold in the dazzling landscape of her imagination. Like a director, this keen film-lover orchestrates each of her collections around a real narrative, a master canvas within which her creations come to life and give substance to her vision.

Paradise, a haven of marvels

The Paradise-themed Red Carpet Collection 2021 takes us into a universe dear to the Maison: that of unspoilt, generous and sublime nature. A dreamlike and fertile place, permanently accessible to everyone, free to imagine its contours and to go there to recharge their batteries as they please. A ‘Paradise’ to be found within oneself, according to one’s imagination and desires. A realm of all possibilities.

When instilling a baroque, fanciful spirit into the Collection, Caroline Scheufele drew inspiration from the lush nature of the mythological or real places populating her fantasy repertoire. A bountiful Garden of Eden, where precious stones are picked like berries, where plants and an

imals offer their songs and spectacular colours; a secret landmark, like the island of Pantelleria, where the telluric depth of the volcanic rocks is reflected in the crystalline transparency of the waters where Caroline Scheufele loves to immerse her gaze; or a supernatural, vision of nature resembling that of the fantasy film Avatar, a metaphorical space in which to find refuge, to escape the hostility of reality and to find a new lease on life.

Among the countless references enlivening Caroline Scheufele’s majestic world, the Artistic Director has brilliantly enlisted a whole range of creative resources. She explained: “The Red Carpet Collection always gives me the opportunity to give free rein to my creativity and this year I was inspired by the idea of Paradise: I wanted our creations to invite women on a journey towards a comforting haven, an imaginary world brimming with dreams and optimism.” She continued: “There are various ways of envisaging one’s personal Paradise and I have tried to give life to these multiple worlds within the Red Carpet Collection through creations honouring fauna, flora and the finest gemstones, as well as by designing jewellery that is part of the fantasy of movies.”

“The Red Carpet Collection is a jewellery masterpiece made possible by the skill of all the artisans who pool their talents in our Haute Joaillerie ateliers. Each of these creations is a work of art in itself.

Chopard, sculptor of wonders

Among the Chopard Haute Joaillerie collections, Red Carpet is the one that embodies the ultimate dazzlement, nourished by Caroline Scheufele’s curious and lively view of the world. This collection also highlights the extraordinary work of the Artisans who exercise their skills in Chopard’s Haute Joaillerie’s Geneva workshops, the largest in Switzerland. From design to volume, from goldsmithing to gemsetting craftsmanship, these Artisans combine their talents in giving life to this collection of 74 creations corresponding to the number of years since the Cannes Festival first began.

Each year, the challenge of creating a collection of this magnitude in the same workshop is taken up by the Artisans, who apply their own genius and expertise to each creation. In this respect, the Red Carpet Collection symbolises the quintessence of classic jewellery-making expertise and carefully preserved tradition, nurtured by a fresh eye and a genuine avant-garde spirit. It is in this commitment of heart and mind, expressed through the nobility of hand craftsmanship, that the emotion of this new collection unfolds, impelled by the fertile spirit of fabulous odysseys.

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Vacheron Constantin – New Flagship in New York City

Vacheron Constantin – New Flagship in New York City

  • Vacheron Constantin opens North American Flagship in New York City
  • The new two-story Boutique celebrates the long-standing relationship between the Maison and America since 1831
  • Client-first experiences include in-house watchmaker, strap customization, interactive digital archives, rotating exhibition space, and the first ever permanent “Les Collectionneurs” vintage offer.

New York, June 2021 – Vacheron Constantin, the luxury Swiss watchmaking Maison with over two hundred and sixty-five years of expertise, is delighted to announce the opening of its North American Flagship in the heart of New York City, at 28 East 57th Street. The boutique pays tribute to the Maison’s deep roots in the United States and commitment to outstanding client service.

The new Vacheron Constantin Flagship in North America celebrates the relationship between our Maison and America that has existed since 1831. Engaging with the creative spirit of America and its many diverse cultures, Vacheron Constantin is ready to make 28 E 57th Street its new North American home. This Flagship exemplifies Vacheron Constantin’s dedication to excellence and our motto, Do Better if Possible, and That is Always Possible.” – Louis Ferla, Chief Executive Officer, Vacheron Constantin

A 190 year love story with New York

The selection of New York for the location of Vacheron Constantin’s North American Flagship carries powerful symbolism for the Maison. In 1831, Jacques Barthélémi Vacheron wrote a letter stating his intent to expand business to the United States, and in 1832 the company established its first agent in New York. By the twentieth century, Vacheron Constantin timepieces could be found on the wrists of eminent Americans from members of the Rockefeller family, Henry and William James, automobile manufacture James Ward Packard, and actors Marlon Brando and Elizabeth Taylor to name a few. Of the many innovative and historically important Vacheron Constantin timepieces, special references inspired by American clients include one of the first large wristwatches for aviators, a series of pocket watches for the U.S. Corps of Engineers during WWI, and just a few years later, the cushion-shaped “American 1921”, a classic yet daring tilted-dial design created for the American market. This iconic timepiece celebrates its 100th Anniversary in 2021 and is the focus of the New York Flagship opening exhibition.

Immersive experience

Located between Madison and Park Avenue, the new Vacheron Constantin Flagship spans over 4,500 square feet and covers two floors. A distinctive glass façade opens directly onto 57th Street and features a sleek brass-toned design in the shape of the Maison’s emblem, the Maltese Cross. The transparent glass invites collectors and visitors into a discovery of the Maison’s creativity and fine craftsmanship in a harmonious old-meets-new environment fitting the spirit of Vacheron Constantin’s contemporary watchmaking.

Upon entering, visitors are greeted by an atrium filled with natural light and a double floor height. A striking blue straw marquetry wall with Maltese cross motif creates a focal point that conveys Vacheron Constantin’s dedication to high watchmaking artistry. To the left, an open discovery table welcomes watch collectors and visitors alike to discover beautiful crafts and techniques amongst an assortment of Métiers d’art timepieces.

American 1921 Unique Piece Historique Restoration Restauration Calibre 1921 Making-of 100th anniversary

A large eye-catching screen offers an immersive tour through the history of Vacheron Constantin in the United States via an exclusive interactive experience: the “Chronogram”. Developed in partnership with the Swiss Federal Institute of Technology in Lausanne (EPFL), Chronogram is an innovative tool that uses emerging technologies to digitize Vacheron Constantin’s exceptional body of archives accumulated since 1755, shared with the public for live exploration of the Maison’s heritage.

In-house watchmaker, rotating exhibitions and family-friendly accommodations

A dedicated area within the first floor displays the restoration capabilities of the Maison and rotating exhibitions of historic timepieces from the Vacheron Constantin private heritage collection in Geneva. In a striking design, visitors are met with a sweeping staircase animated with bronze vertical columns inspired by 19th century architecture. As a demonstration of the Maison’s commitment to client-centered service, the second floor opens to an expansive watchmaking bench intended to encourage interaction with an in-house watchmaker as well as a custom strap station presenting both engraving and embossing customization options. A VIP Lounge encourages lingering and a family-friendly bar upstairs is equipped with games and refreshments that truly embody Vacheron Constantin’s dedication to clients.

A window into Vacheron Constantin’s collections

The new Flagship houses the complete Vacheron Constantin timepiece collection from simple to high complications, as well as boutique exclusive models, the first permanent “Les Collectionneurs” vintage watch offering, and a rotating Les Cabinotiers assortment. The newly unveiled American 1921 Pièce Unique re-creation timepiece will also be presented for the occasion of the Flagship opening.

“Les Collectionneurs”

Chosen with patience and talent by the Maison’s heritage department specialists, “Les Collectionneurs” curated collection of vintage Vacheron Constantin watches from the 20th century have been restored and are offered with the same warranty given to contemporary collections. Previously only available at dedicated annual events in Vacheron Constantin boutiques around the world, a rare assortment will be featured in the North American Flagship as the world’s first “Les Collectionneurs” permanent boutique offering.

Les Cabinotiers

Les Cabinotiers, Vacheron Constantin’s approach to single-piece editions, showcases the Maison’s amazing wealth of creative and engineering talent. The department of Les Cabinotiers combines excellence and dedication with a group of master watchmaking professionals who use their wide-ranging scientific knowledge in the latest technical breakthroughs and 18th century watchmaking crafts to perpetuate Vacheron Constantin’s tradition of innovation. Creating both bespoke timepieces on demand from clients as well as timepieces conceived by Vacheron Constantin master watchmakers, Les Cabinotiers translate dreams into reality in mechanical and artistic terms and consistently push the boundaries of what is possible in watchmaking today.

A One of a Kind American 1921

To mark the 100th anniversary of the American 1921 watch, Vacheron Constantin has delved into its archives and its horological expertise to offer a faithful reproduction of the American 1921 original timepiece, emblematic of an era. Stemming from an impressive technical feat and epic human saga pushing the limits of fine craftsmanship, the creation of the American 1921 Pièce Unique watch mobilizes the remarkable expertise of the Maison’s Restoration workshop and Heritage department for an entire year. This approach might be a first in the watch industry, reflecting Vacheron Constantin’s commitment to the conservation, transmission and continuous enrichment of its heritage and skills.

Inspiration from American Art

In homage to great American art, display windows on 57th Street and the boutique’s first floor exhibition area will be fully encompassed during the opening by a dream-like bronze city including a car and track installation inspired by the masterpiece, Metropolis II (2010), by American artist Chris Burden (1946-2015). From his action-based works in the 1970s that focused on his own body and the relationship of the viewer to it, to the technical feats of his later sculptures that intervened in spaces, artist Chris Burden consistently challenged limitations. By doing so, he reflected on the surreal realities of contemporary life and invited the viewer to join in these contemplations. Vacheron Constantin and Chris Burden’s work share a commitment to craft, and an exploration of the beauty found in scientific exploration. The installation on view pays tribute to a cosmopolitan love of movement and “the idea of a city”. This is the Chris Burden Estate’s historic first ever brand collaboration.

Boutique Address:
Vacheron Constantin
28 East 57th Street
New York, NY 10022

Hours:
Monday – Saturday: 10am to 6pm
Sunday: 12 to 6pm

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Vacheron Constantin – Les Cabinotiers Armillary tourbillon perpetual calendar – Planetaria

Vacheron Constantin – Les Cabinotiers Armillary tourbillon perpetual calendar – Planetaria

  • A single-piece edition Les Cabinotiers timepiece with a retrograde jumping perpetual calendar regulated by a double-axis tourbillon and complemented by a three-dimensional representation of the two hemispheres designed to provide 24-hour and day/night indications.
  • A new Grand Complication movement, Calibre 1991, which took four years to develop

Geneva, April 7th 2021 – A highly technical single-piece edition, the Armillary tourbillon perpetual calendar – Planetaria watch stages sophisticated complications in a manner bearing a unique aesthetic signature. Equipped with a new Calibre 1991 in-house movement, this timepiece celebrates the astronomical function par excellence: the perpetual calendar with precision moon phases. With its retrograde date appearing along a right-hand arc on the dial, as well as its circular retrograde month and day indications framing depictions of the Earth’s two hemispheres providing day/night indications, this timepiece is also regulated by a double-axis tourbillon. This new model, presented at Watches & Wonders 2021, is part of the theme of the Maison for 2021 : entitled Classic with a Twist, it highlights Vacheron Constantin’s creative energy, guided by an identity that celebrates a heritage and dares to deliver the unexpected.

Les Cabinotiers
Armillary tourbillon perpetual calendar – Planetaria
9820C/000R-B707

Calibre 1991, a new Grand Complication movement
Extraordinarily complex with its 745 components, mechanical manual-winding Calibre 1991 is the result of a four-year development process. It powers two rotating globes representing the Earth’s hemispheres, regulated by a double-axis armillary tourbillon. It corresponds to an innovative interpretation of the perpetual calendar, the astronomical complication par excellence which “reads off” the specificities of the calendar without requiring any adjustments before 2100. Another distinctive feature lies in the retrograde displays of the perpetual calendar’s days, dates and months. Mounted on ball bearings to ensure smooth, linear operation, the date display follows a circular arc to the right of the hours and minutes dial. In keeping with the watch’s astronomical vocation, the centre of the timekeeping dial bearing hour-markers is dedicated to the moon phases. These appear according to their respective evolution in the two hemispheres, in perfect symmetry with the two rotating globes, and with a degree of precision requiring a mere one-day correction every 122 years.

The perpetual calendar functions continue with the leap year appearing through a 5 o’clock aperture, along with circular day and month indications at 12 o’clock and 6 o’clock based on a jumping retrograde pallet-type display system. In the centre of the two counters, the two globes representing the Northern and Southern hemispheres perform complete rotations in opposite directions on a graduated 24-hour scale around the rim. The shaded areas of the domed sapphire crystal used for the day/night indication have been positioned in such a way that the armillary tourbillon resembles a sun darting its rays across the surface of the Earth.

Making the super-thin (0.35 mm) sapphire crystal featuring the domes and extending over the retrograde date display required a great deal of ingenuity. A crown-integrated pusher enables simultaneous adjustment of the world-time function of the two globes.

In an additional challenge for the movement’s designers, who are consistently concerned with achieving optimal balance and aesthetic appeal, they had to imagine and design a retrograde system for the day and month indications leaving sufficiently ample space to admire the beating of the bi-axial armillary tourbillon with its spherical balance-spring.

Les Cabinotiers
Armillary tourbillon perpetual calendar – Planetaria
9820C/000R-B707

Nods to historical master-watchmakers
The complex mechanics of Calibre 1991 are perfectly epitomised in its armillary tourbillon, a technical challenge as well as a spectacular sight in itself. This movement regulating device endowed with a 60-hour power reserve benefited from the research conducted on the world’s most complicated timepiece, Reference 57260. This construction is positioned on the left side of the piece, beneath the sapphire crystal ‘bubble’. Forming a sphere in perpetual motion, the tourbillon was named “armillary” in reference to French watchmaker Antide Janvier, who towards the end of the 18th century invented a moving planetary sphere known as an armillary, and regarded as one of his most accomplished masterpieces.

Another technical feature of the mechanism of this piece is the cylindrical balance-spring coupled with the balance. Invented by Jacques-Frédéric Houriet in 1814, this variant devoid of terminal curves gives the tourbillon a perfectly concentric beat, thereby ensuring enhanced isochronism. In order to transmit to this balance-spring the impulses corresponding to a frequency of 18,000 vibrations per hour (2.5 Hz), Vacheron Constantin has developed an escapement consisting of a silicon escape-wheel and a lever with diamond pallets, materials reducing friction without any need for lubrication and thus increasing the precision of the mechanism.

Les Cabinotiers
Armillary tourbillon perpetual calendar – Planetaria
9820C/000R-B707

Haute Horlogerie finishes
Every single detail of the finishes gracing this single-piece edition highlights this ingenious astronomical orchestration of time. Two galvanically treated titanium globes weighing barely 0.12 grams rotate gently on the finely grained dial. The 24-hour counters surrounding them are circular satin-finished with transfers, while the day, month and date indications are printed beneath the sapphire crystal. The timekeeping dial features Roman numerals in the form of polished gold appliques. These Haute Horlogerie finishes are beautifully framed by an 18K 5N pink gold case measuring 46 mm in diameter and fitted with an alligator leather strap.

Les Cabinotiers
Armillary tourbillon perpetual calendar – Planetaria
9820C/000R-B707

“Le Temps Céleste”
Each year, the Les Cabinotiers department unveils a range of single-piece editions relating to a theme cherished by Vacheron Constantin. The year 2021 is dedicated to “Le Temps Céleste” (which means Celestial Time), with timepieces referring to the astronomical origins of time measurement.

From the dawn of civilisations, the cycle of days and seasons, the evolution of constellations in the night sky, the phases of the moon and eclipses have exerted an almost mystical fascination. Eager to unravel the mysteries of the universe, the first human beings found in mythological tales a cosmogony blending legends with poetry. At a very early stage, the first scientific minds attempted to decipher the rhythms of Nature and to organise them according to predictable patterns.

It was from these calculations, and with the appearance of writing, that the first calendars were born, before the Babylonian sexagesimal system gave meaning to the physical division of time into units of angle. Traditional watchmaking is a direct heir to this rigorous and scientific approach, expressed today on watches with depictions of the calendar, the sky chart, moon phases, tides and seasons, and even civil, solar and sidereal time with their differentials. Vacheron Constantin has nevertheless sought to endow these genuine observation instruments with all the charm of the founding myths through the subtlety of its craftsmanship, through its work in guilloché engraving and the engraving of symbolic motifs, or in the “stellar” glittering of gemset stones. This new Les Cabinotiers range is the expression of exceptional expertise in astronomical watches, dedicated to the poetry of time.

Vacheron Constantin and astronomical watches
Astronomical watches enjoy a rich and longstanding tradition within the Maison. The Vacheron Constantin archives reveal a first perpetual calendar in 1884, integrated into a double-sided yellow gold pocket watch, now part of the Maison’s private collection. This was the beginning of a mechanical “epic” that would singularly take shape at the turn of the century. In 1900, the Maison set up a workshop exclusively dedicated to the assembly of watches with complications, often incorporating astronomical functions. Orders flooded in for complicated and even very complicated watches. The perpetual calendar was then combined with other technical feats such as those enriching a 1905 pocket watch comprising a minute repeater, split-seconds chronograph and perpetual calendar with phases and age of the moon.

Delivered in 1929, the pocket watch made for King Fouad I of Egypt with chronograph, perpetual calendar, Grande and Petite Sonnerie and minute repeater functions is characteristic of this golden age. This exceptional watchmaking expertise, later applied to wristwatches, would be powerfully expressed in the Tour de l’Île with its 16 horological and astronomical complications, produced in 2005 to mark the 250th anniversary of the Maison. It features a a sky chart, a complication that has become a speciality of Vacheron Constantin. Reference 57260, which has 57 complications, also features a sky chart, notably accompanied by sidereal time and a secular Hebrew calendar. In 2017, Vacheron Constantin once again innovated with Calibre 3600, powering displays of civil, solar and sidereal time, the latter synchronised with a mobile representation of constellations.

Les Cabinotiers: single-piece editions
In the Vacheron Constantin universe, Les Cabinotiers represents a department in its own right dedicated to the personalisation of Grand Complication models and single-piece editions. This tradition dates back to the 18th century, an age when master-watchmakers were called cabinotiers and worked in ateliers bathed in natural light, known as cabinets and located on the top floors of Geneva’s buildings. In the hands of these learned artisans, open to the new ideas of the Enlightenment, exceptional timepieces were born, inspired by astronomy, mechanical engineering and the arts. This expertise, which constitutes the great Geneva watchmaking tradition, has been flowing through Vacheron Constantin’s veins since 1755.

Classic with a Twist
Vacheron Constantin’s creativity has always remained closely attuned to its time while evoking its memories. This byword for elegance, adopted by each watchmaker, artisan and designer throughout the years and centuries, celebrates heritage and dares to explore the unexpected. Poised at the intersection between technical virtuosity and aesthetic refinement, the enduring allure of Vacheron Constantin timepieces makes its way unscathed through passing eras. Because timelessness cannot be achieved merely by complying with the canons of traditional watchmaking, each creation is tinged with a touch of boldness revealed in the smallest details. Special displays, offset indications, specific chamfering of all components, hand-crafted finishing and the complexity of a mechanism are just a few examples of this expertise. The result is a very personal field of expression where technique and style converge in a subtle harmony between the conventional and the atypical.

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Sum-up

The Les Cabinotiers Tourbillon armillary perpetual calendar – Planetaria watch demonstrates technical mastery of watches featuring extreme astronomic and aesthetic complexity, with the integration on the dial of rotating globes. Equipped with the new manual-winding Calibre 1991 stemming from four years of development, this single-piece edition features a completely original perpetual calendar with a retrograde display of dates, days and months. This timepiece also offers a rare three-dimensional representation of the Earth’s Northern and Southern hemispheres. The two titanium globes perform a full rotation in 24 hours, complete with a day/night indication. The regulation of the movement is based on the same concern for technicality expressed by a double-axis armillary tourbillon whose nested aluminium carriages move at a speed of 60 seconds per rotation. This timepiece is presented in an 18K 5N pink gold case measuring 46 mm in diameter, fitted with a dark brown alligator leather strap.


TECHNICAL DATA

Les Cabinotiers Armillary tourbillon perpetual calendar – Planetaria

Reference
9820C/000R-B707

Calibre
1991
Developed and manufactured by Vacheron Constantin
Mechanical manual winding
35 mm diameter, 11.20 mm thick
Movement power reserve: approximately 60h
2.5 Hz (18,000 vibrations/hour)
745 components
94 jewels
Hallmark of Geneva certified timepiece

Indications
Hours and minutes
Double-axis armillary tourbillon
Perpetual calendar
Retrograde date, day and month
Moon phases in Northern and Southern hemispheres
Northern and Southern day/night and 24h indication

Case
18K 5N pink gold
46 mm diameter, 20.20 mm thick

Dials (front & back)
18K gold, opaline silvered dial
18k 5N pink gold hands

Strap
Dark brown Mississippiensis alligator leather with alligator leather inner shell, hand-stitched, saddle-finish, large square scales

Clasp
18K 5N pink gold folding clasp

Presentation box
Les Cabinotiers model

Unique piece
 “Les Cabinotiers”, “Pièce unique”, “AC” hallmark engraved on caseback