Patek Philippe 5750P Advanced Research Fortissimo: the sound
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Patek Philippe 5750P Advanced Research Fortissimo: the sound

Patek Philippe 5750P Advanced Research Fortissimo: the sound

Patek Philippe ”Advanced Research”

La manufactura presenta una innovación destacada en uno de sus ámbitos de excelencia, los relojes de sonería

Los ingenieros de Patek Philippe «Advanced Research» han abierto nuevos horizontes para los relojes de sonería desarrollando un sistema inédito de amplificación del sonido totalmente mecánico. Compuesto de una palanca de pivote flexible y de una placa vibrante de zafiro transparente, este módulo fortissimo «ff» permite obtener un volumen sonoro notablemente superior al de una repetición de minutos tradicional, independientemente del material de la caja y con una gran calidad acústica. Este avance técnico, coronado con cuatro patentes, ha sido implementado en el modelo Repetición de Minutos referencia 5750 Patek Philippe «Advanced Research», una edición limitada de 15 ejemplares con caja de platino y esfera de un diseño original.
Patek Philippe 5750P Advanced Research Fortissimo: the sound

Patek Philippe 5750P Advanced Research Fortissimo: the sound

El espíritu de innovación ha estado en el ADN de Patek Philippe desde que se fundó la empresa. Fiel a esta tradición ininterrumpida, la manufactura no ha escatimado esfuerzos para ampliar aún más los límites del arte relojero y moverse a la vanguardia del desarrollo técnico. Pero Patek Philippe considera que las innovaciones tienen sentido solo si ofrecen al usuario un valor añadido genuino en términos de calidad, precisión y fiabilidad a largo plazo. Fundado en 2005, el departamento de “Investigación avanzada” de Patek Philippe se ha integrado mientras tanto en el Departamento de Investigación. & Development y encomendada con la tarea de llevar a cabo investigaciones de alto nivel en los campos de nuevos materiales, tecnologías y fundamentos conceptuales destinados a abrir perspectivas totalmente nuevas en el dominio de la relojería.

La innovación es uno de los valores fundadores de Patek Philippe. Fiel a su tradición de dinamismo, la manufactura se ha esforzado siempre por ampliar al máximo los límites del arte relojero situándose a la vanguardia de la técnica. Para Patek Philippe sin embargo, la innovación únicamente tiene sentido si ésta otorga al usuario un auténtico valor añadido en materia de calidad, precisión y fiabilidad a largo plazo.

Patek Philippe 5750P Advanced Research Fortissimo: the sound

Patek Philippe 5750P Advanced Research Fortissimo: the sound

Creado en 2005 y vinculado en la actualidad a la división Investigación y Desarrollo, el departamento Patek Philippe «Advanced Research» (Programa de Investigación Avanzada) tiene como misión llevar a cabo investigaciones punteras en el ámbito de nuevos materiales, tecnologías y principios de concepción que permitan abrir perspectivas inéditas en el campo de la relojería.

Para ello, la manufactura ha desarrollado unas extraordinarias capacidades reuniendo en sus talleres a los mejores especialistas y dotándose del equipamiento más moderno, principalmente en materia de herramientas de simulación numérica. Los ingenieros de Patek Philippe «Advanced Research» colaboran igualmente con laboratorios de investigación independientes, tales como el Centro Suizo de Electrónica y Microtécnica de Neuchâtel (CSEM), así como la Escuela Politécnica Federal de Lausana (EPFL).

Desde 2005, Patek Philippe «Advanced Research» se ha distinguido en primer lugar como pionero en la tecnología novedosa del Silinvar®, un derivado del silicio que presenta unas características revolucionarias en relojería (insensibilidad a las variaciones de temperatura, ligereza, ausencia de lubricación, antimagnetismo, etc.). La manufactura ha podido presentar de este modo la primera rueda de escape en Silinvar® (2005), seguida del espiral Spiromax® (2006), el escape Pulsomax® (2008), el órgano regulador Oscillomax® (2011) y una versión optimizada del espiral Spiromax® (2017). Cada uno de estos avances ha estado marcado por el lanzamiento de una edición limitada a la que se le ha dotado en primicia de los nuevos componentes. El espiral Spiromax® en Silinvar® ha sido igualmente incorporado en gran parte de los movimientos que integran la colección permanente de Patek Philippe.

En 2017, Patek Philippe «Advanced Research» decidió explorar otra vía desarrollando un sistema de guía flexible fabricado en acero relojero corriente y utilizado para el comando del segundo huso horario en los relojes de doble huso. Un avance introducido en la misma serie limitada que el espiral Spiromax® optimizado.

Patek Philippe 5750P Advanced Research Fortissimo: the sound

Patek Philippe 5750P Advanced Research Fortissimo: the sound

Un sistema de amplificación del sonido con placa vibrante de zafiro

El departamento Patek Philippe «Advanced Research» marca ahora un nuevo hito en un ámbito que constituye uno de los bastiones de la manufactura: los relojes de sonería, y más precisamente las repeticiones de minutos –unos modelos Gran Complicación de los que Patek Philippe ofrece una amplia gama en su colección permanente.

Tomando como punto de partida el célebre calibre automático R 27, el movimiento con el que Patek Philippe marcó el gran retorno de las repeticiones de minutos en 1989, los ingenieros y constructores de Patek Philippe «Advanced Research» han buscado una manera de amplificar el volumen de la sonería de forma puramente mecánica –conservando una excelente calidad acústica y con un tamaño lo más pequeño posible. Tras múltiples exploraciones técnicas, han optado por mantener la construcción del movimiento de base pero añadiéndole por el lado de los puentes (es decir por el lado de la muñeca) un módulo que hace las veces de «altavoz mecánico». Pero a diferencia de los altavoces normales, la amplificación del sonido no se realiza mediante una membrana flexible, que como la piel de un tambor, se adhiere a lo largo de su contorno. En el sistema que ha sido objeto de tres registros de patentes, Patek Philippe ha sustituido esta membrana por una placa vibrante de zafiro sintético de 0,2 mm de grosor. Gracias a sus desplazamientos angulares, este disco rígido y libre garantiza una propagación del sonido claramente mejor dentro del limitado volumen de la caja de un reloj de pulsera. La transparencia del zafiro permite igualmente conservar, por el lado de la tapa de fondo, una vista perfecta del movimiento. Este sistema miniaturizado ha planteado importantes retos en lo que a la creación y fabricación se refiere.

Una palanca de pivote flexible

Para hacer la conexión entre los timbres de la repetición de minutos y la placa vibrante, los ingenieros han creado un sistema de palanca de acero en cuyo centro va sujeta la placa de zafiro. Esta palanca, cuya forma evoca un diapasón, va montada en una «suspensión» consistente en un pivote flexible de 0,08 mm de grosor. Cuando los martillos golpean los timbres, las vibraciones de estos últimos son transmitidas a la palanca, que las amplifica y las transmite a su vez a la placa vibrante rígida que las amplificará aún más. Los desplazamientos angulares de la placa hacen entonces vibrar las capas de aire situadas encima y debajo del zafiro, lo que tiene como efecto la obtención de un sonido claramente más fuerte.

Un nuevo modo de difusión del sonido

La incorporación del módulo de amplificación fortissimo «ff» ha ido acompañada del desarrollo de un novedoso sistema de difusión del sonido. En una repetición de minutos clásica, los golpes de los martillos en los timbres hacen vibrar al conjunto del reloj. El sonido se transmite así a la palanca, y después a la placa vibrante, y se difunde únicamente a través de cuatro aberturas perforadas en un anillo de titanio, situadas a las 12h, 3h, 6h y 9h. La onda sonora se   dispersa a continuación a través de una hendidura entre el fondo y el canto, provista de un filtro anti-polvo que protege el movimiento sin alterar el sonido. De este modo, el material utilizado para la caja no tiene ningún impacto en las modalidades de difusión del sonido siendo este último idéntico, ya se trate de un reloj de oro rosa, amarillo o blanco, o bien de platino.

Patek Philippe 5750P Advanced Research Fortissimo: the sound

Patek Philippe 5750P Advanced Research Fortissimo: the sound

Un sonido notablemente más fuerte, en total armonía

El módulo fortissimo que va fijado en el fondo de la caja permite escuchar el sonido de la sonería a una distancia seis veces superior. Así pues, una repetición de minutos clásica escuchada en la muñeca a 10 metros y una repetición de minutos amplificada escuchada a 60 metros ofrecerán el mismo nivel sonoro. Asimismo, la manufactura ha puesto en práctica su rico saber hacer en el ámbito de los relojes de sonería ofreciendo una sonoridad potente y agradable al oído, lo que exige una gran habilidad y un perfecto oído musical. Aunque ligeramente diferente al de otras repeticiones de minutos, el sonido amplificado por el módulo fortissimo presenta el mismo grado de armonía y la misma plenitud acústica que ha dado fama a los relojes de sonería Patek Philippe, con una buena longitud de sonido respecto del «ataque» (dureza). Además, la duración máxima de la sonería (32 golpes a las 12h59), que generalmente es de 17 a 18 segundos, se ha ampliado a 20-21 segundos para que los timbres puedan sonar durante más tiempo.

Componentes de platino

Además de incorporar el módulo adicional fortissimo, con sus cuatro micro aberturas en el canto, el calibre R 27 PS se ha beneficiado de varios ajustes técnicos en lo que respecta a los materiales y la construcción. Los martillos de la repetición de minutos de acero han sido sustituidos por unos martillos de platino –una solución patentada que ofrece en este caso preciso un golpe de mejor calidad según los criterios Patek Philippe, con un sonido más suave pero que conserva toda su potencia. El mini- rotor descentrado de oro de 22K ha sido reemplazado por un mini-rotor de platino –un metal con mayor densidad que permite reducir el grosor de la masa oscilante ‒aunque con la misma potencia de carga‒ y compensar así en parte el grosor adicional ocasionado por el módulo fortissimo.

Una serie limitada de 15 ejemplares

Para dar a conocer este sistema inédito de amplificación y difusión del sonido, Patek Philippe lanza un reloj de serie limitada, como fue el caso en otras innovaciones precedentes «Advanced Research». Esta repetición de minutos referencia 5750 Patek Philippe «Advanced Research» va dotada de una caja de diseño depurado, con bisel abombado, que se inspira en el de la repetición de minutos con timbres «catedral» referencia 5178, aunque ligeramente más grueso (11,1 mm, es decir un incremento de 0,57 mm), y con el mismo   diámetro de 40 mm. Para demostrar la eficacia del sistema  fortissimo, la manufactura ha optado por el metal más difícil que existe desde el punto de vista acústico, el platino.

La esfera, de un diseño refinado y construida en cinco piezas, destaca por su motivo central calado inspirado en las llantas de los automóviles antiguos, un motivo decorativo que resalta sobre un fondo negro con grabado «azulado», adornado con finas líneas en espiral. El pequeño segundero a las 6h lleva un disco giratorio que presenta el mismo motivo calado sobre fondo negro «azulado» y un índice que hace las veces de aguja, un elemento móvil que aporta un toque muy original y dinámico. El tiempo lo marcan unas agujas tipo «dauphine» planas de oro blanco, con índices aplicados tipo

El fondo de cristal de zafiro permite admirar los martillos y los timbres clásicos de la repetición de minutos, así como la palanca en forma de diapasón a la que va fijada la placa vibrante transparente del sistema de amplificación fortissimo. Una cruz de Calatrava calada recubre el sistema de volante de inercia ofreciendo una cadencia perfectamente regular de la sonería. El gran espectáculo del movimiento rinde así honor al volante Gyromax®, el espiral Spiromax® en Silinvar® lanzado por Patek Philippe «Advanced Research» en 2006 y un gran puente adornado con Côtes de Genève y aristas cuidadosamente achaflanadas y pulidas. El mini-rotor de platino va decorado con un motivo radial similar al de la esfera, obtenido gracias a una técnica de texturizado superficial por láser capaz de absorber la luz, lo que permite que ciertas partes aparezcan en negro. Esta serie limitada va acompañada de una correa de piel de aligátor color naranja brillante, con costuras contrastadas negras y cierre desplegable de platino.

Con su sistema inédito de amplificación y difusión del sonido fortissimo, Patek Philippe «Advanced Research» presenta una innovación que hará las delicias de todos los apasionados de repeticiones de minutos y de logros técnicos, y abre nuevos horizontes para los relojes de sonería.

Patentes

Altavoz con placa libre:

PCT/EP2021/066501 – PIEZA DE RELOJERÍA PROVISTA DE UN DISPOSITIVO AMPLIFICADOR DE VIBRACIONES

Mecanismo de amplificación del sonido

EP3812844 A1 PIEZA DE RELOJERÍA PROVISTA DE UN DISPOSITIVO AMPLIFICADOR DE VIBRACIONES

Martillos de platino

CH00153/21 MECANISMO DE SONERÍA PROVISTO DE UN MARTILLO DE SONERÍA Y UN TIMBRE DE SONERÍA, LOS MENCIONADOS MARTILLO DE SONERÍA Y TIMBRE DE SONERÍA

Timbres helecöidales de encaje coplanar que garantizan un mismo nivel de amplificación para las horas y los minutos

EP21203307.0 CONJUNTO RESALTE-TIMBRES PARA UN MECANISMO DE SONERÍA DE UNA PIEZA DE RELOJERÍA

 

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TAG HEUER – El reloj Aquaracer Professional 200

TAG HEUER PRESENTA

EL NUEVO

AQUARACER PROFESSIONAL 200

La Chaux-de-Fonds,.– TAG Heuer recupera la colección Aquaracer Professional con el modelo Aquaracer Professional 200, un reloj herramienta de lujo con un diseño muy personal y elegante; un auténtico todoterreno que prosigue con el rico legado de la histórica marca suiza de relojes deportivos de alto rendimiento, iniciado hace ya cuatro décadas.

El reloj Aquaracer Professional 200

estará disponible con una caja de acero inoxidable de 30 o 40 mm. Cada modelo contará con un bisel giratorio unidireccional con doce facetas, ofrecerá una estanqueidad hasta 200 m y estará equipado con un movimiento mecánico automático o de cuarzo. El Aquaracer Professional 200 es un reloj herramienta robusto y sofisticado a la vez, con el que el usuario podrá hacer frente a los numerosos desafíos de la vida.

«El reloj Aquaracer es un modelo TAG Heuer tan auténtico como un Carrera o un Monaco. Los códigos y la filosofía que subyace a este reloj se definieron hace décadas y continúan siendo hoy en día tan pertinentes y apasionantes como siempre, sobre todo en esta época de nuevos comienzos y proyectos. El modelo Aquaracer Professional 200 es un compañero ideal para una vida frenética y memorable, llena de aventuras y logros, una vida superando los límites». Frédéric Arnault, CEO de TAG Heuer.

UN NUEVO CAPÍTULO EN LA HISTORIA DE TAG HEUER

La historia de la colección Aquaracer Professional continúa

El año pasado, TAG Heuer dotó de una nueva vida a la colección Aquaracer con el lanzamiento del Aquaracer Professional 300, el reloj de lujo definitivo de la marca para buceadores.

La historia comenzó en 1978, cuando Jack Heuer presentó la Referencia 844 de Heuer. Diseñado para hombres y mujeres amantes de los deportes al aire libre y de las aventuras en la naturaleza —tanto en tierra como en el agua—, aquel reloj definió una nueva categoría de relojes de pulsera, versátiles y de alto rendimiento, en los que se podía confiar incluso en condiciones extremas.

La denominación «Aquaracer» se introdujo en 2004 y mantuvo el legado de los seis códigos de diseño de la colección: un bisel giratorio unidireccional, una corona a rosca, la resistencia al agua hasta una profundidad mínima de 200 metros, índices luminosos, un cristal de zafiro y un doble cierre de seguridad.

Justo después del modelo Aquaracer Professional 300 llega su hermano, el reloj Aquaracer Professional 200, diseñado para ser tan cómodo durante un vuelo a gran velocidad como al practicar esquí o caminar por la calle a paso firme. Al igual que el Aquaracer Professional 300, su hermano mayor de 43 mm, este modelo también respeta los seis códigos de diseño establecidos hace más de cuarenta años.

Cada nueva versión de estos relojes se caracteriza por su refinamiento. El mayor de los dos que se presentan hoy tiene un diámetro de 40 mm y un grosor de 11 mm, que le proporcionan una silueta más estilizada y un perfil más esbelto que el modelo al que sustituye, de 41 mm de diámetro y 12 de grosor. Los equipos de ingeniería y diseño de TAG Heuer han desarrollado un reloj acorde con los principios fundamentales del reloj Aquaracer, pero que aporta mayor sofisticación y una durabilidad aún más amplia.

«Si uno contempla el modelo Aquaracer Professional 200, puede apreciar nuestra intención de crear un reloj para uso diario que, sin embargo, conserva el aspecto de reloj herramienta que los amantes de TAG Heuer esperaban de los iconos del pasado, como la Referencia 844 y los modelos de las colecciones 1000 y 2000. Representa una evolución de toda su historia». Guy Bove, Director Creativo de TAG Heuer.

TRAZANDO LAS LÍNEAS

Una comparación entre los modelos Aquaracer Professional 200 y 300

Resulta fácil definir la relación entre los modelos Aquaracer Professional 200 y 300. Ambos cuentan con el famoso y ahora mejorado bisel con 12 facetas introducido por primera vez en 1995; ambos lucen una esfera decorada con un patrón repetitivo y refinado de líneas horizontales; ambos cuentan con asas más cortas, esculpidas y biseladas, con acabados cepillados y pulidos; ambos están equipados con una correa con tres puntos de sujeción, y están dotados de una corona de rosca con doce facetas y protección.

Una inspección más detallada pone de relieve una serie de diferencias sutiles, pero claras, todas las cuales confieren al reloj Aquaracer Professional 200 un carácter y una versatilidad únicos. Por ejemplo, el modelo Aquaracer Professional 200 es considerablemente más compacto gracias a su diámetro de 40 mm (frente a 43 mm); además, existe una versión con una caja más reducida de 30 mm. El bisel sigue incorporando una escala de buceo, solo que ahora está grabada en una inserción de acero, en lugar de cerámica. El punto central de sujeción de la correa está pulido, no cepillado, lo que proporciona al reloj Aquaracer Professional 200 un aspecto más formal con el objetivo de aumentar su versatilidad para poder utilizarlo en el mar o la montaña, en la oficina o en una escapada de fin de semana.

«El ojo humano puede interpretar las formas bastante bien cuando tienen un acabado mate. El contraste que hemos creado entre los acabados verticales cepillados y los acabados pulidos de la caja hace que escapen en buena medida a la visión, lo que genera la impresión de un perfil más fino». Guy Bove, Director Creativo de TAG Heuer.

Las diferencias continúan cuando llegamos a la geometría. Allí donde el modelo Aquaracer Professional 300 exhibe marcadores horarios octogonales, una aguja de las horas de gran tamaño y detalles amarillos, el reloj Aquaracer Professional 200 adopta los códigos más clásicos de un reloj deportivo, con marcadores horarios trapezoidales de bordes rectos, agujas más pulcras en forma de espada y detalles de un blanco resplandeciente. Para mejorar la legibilidad de la esfera, los marcadores horarios y las agujas también están revestida de Super-LumiNova, si bien no se ha aplicado material luminiscente al bisel para crear un look más artesanal.

SABIDURÍA INTERIOR

Diferentes opciones de movimiento, diamantes y un nuevo diseño para el reverso de la caja

El nuevo modelo Aquaracer Professional 200 ofrece diversos tipos de movimientos. En la colección de 40 mm hay dos referencias automáticas y otras dos de cuarzo, mientras que en la de 30 mm hay dos opciones automáticas y cinco de cuarzo. Esto supone otra diferencia con respecto al modelo Aquaracer Professional 300, que solamente está disponible con un movimiento mecánico automático.

La elección del movimiento conlleva cambios en el diseño y la funcionalidad del reloj. Los modelos automáticos se distinguen por sus esferas con gradiente fumé (ahumado), ventanillas de fecha (pero sin cristal de aumento, con el fin de mantener el perfil estilizado del reloj), grandes segunderos revestidos con Super-Luminova y escalas de minutos más detalladas. Los modelos de cuarzo carecen de fecha y presentan, en cambio, un aspecto más reducido, aunque por lo demás conservan la misma estética e idénticas características técnicas.

  

«Tanto en las versiones automáticas como en las de cuarzo, hemos interpretado el tema de la elegancia, dotando al reloj de un bisel más estrecho, índices más largos y marcadores más destacados a las 3, las 6, las 9 y las 12. Se trata de un reloj más urbano en el sentido de que es más elegante y refinado, un modelo que se puede combinar a la perfección con un traje. Ese es el motivo por el que apostamos por una esfera fumé para las versiones automáticas, por ejemplo». Guy Bove, Director Creativo de TAG Heuer.

En la gama de 30 mm encontramos opciones más elegantes y divertidas. Hay tres modelos de cuarzo con esferas de color plateado claro, azul claro o negro con efecto «rayos de sol»; un modelo de cuarzo con una esfera de nácar blanco y diminutos diamantes; otro modelo de cuarzo que incorpora un bisel engastado con diamantes a la esfera de nácar blanco con diamantes diminutos; y, finalmente, dos relojes automáticos con esfera ahumada de color azul o negro y también dotada de minúsculos diamantes. Una vez más, los modelos automáticos cuentan con ventanilla de fecha.

Uno de los atributos que comparten todas las referencias del nuevo modelo Aquaracer Professional 200 es el diseño del reverso de la caja. Dado que estos relojes están diseñados para captar el espíritu indomable de la exploración, su reverso está grabado con una brújula, en lugar de la escafandra de buceo que caracterizaba el reverso de la caja de la colección Aquaracer (y sus predecesores) desde 2002. En segundo plano, estos modelos conservan el patrón hexagonal grabado que ya lucía el reloj Aquaracer Professional 300.

UNO MÁS EN LA FAMILIA

Una colección caracterizada por innovaciones de ingeniería compartidas

El nuevo modelo Aquaracer Professional 200 está equipado con algunas mejoras de ingeniería adicionales que se introdujeron por ver primera en el reloj Aquaracer Professional 300, aunque no resultan evidentes de forma inmediata. Por ejemplo, las mejoras en el bisel que se detallaron en el Aquaracer Professional 300 también están presentes en el nuevo reloj. El mecanismo giratorio del bisel es altamente uido, aunque todavía podremos escuchar ese tranquilizador «clic» que indica su fiabilidad bajo presión y nos garantiza que estamos ante un reloj con una ingeniería exquisita.

Además, los dos modelos de la colección Aquaracer Professional han sido inteligentemente diseñados, de forma que su ondulación desde las facetas del bisel facilita la sujeción y el ajuste. Se han eliminado los riders que lucían los biseles de la generación anterior de Aquaracer, con lo que se consigue crear el perfil continuo del Aquaracer Professional 200.

Como resultado de ello, ambos modelos de la colección Aquaracer Professional ofrecen una apariencia y una estética igualmente refinadas, brindando así una experiencia intensamente gratificante al usuario. Se trata de relojes herramienta que, sin embargo, reconocen el imperativo que subyace a un artículo de lujo: el de proporcionar una experiencia sensorial y humana cada vez que se utilizan. El desarrollo de este ejemplar es el resultado de décadas de experiencia y de una nueva temporada de investigación sobre diseño.

«La supresión de los riders ha ayudado a proporcionar una identidad muy clara a la nueva generación de relojes Aquaracer Professional». Guy Bove, Director Creativo de TAG Heuer.

PRÓXIMAMENTE EN SUS PANTALLAS FAVORITAS

Una campaña especial para el Aquaracer Professional 200

Con el fin de presentar al mundo la historia del modelo Aquaracer Professional 200, TAG Heuer ha colaborado una vez más con el legendario director de cine Thierry Donard, realizador de la célebre serie sobre deportes extremos Nuit de la Glisse.

Los anuncios se centran en los deportes del vuelo a alta velocidad, el esquí sobre hielo y la escalada en hielo; en ellos se puede ver a atletas que utilizan el reloj Aquaracer Professional 200 en sus proezas en algunos de los espacios naturales más salvajes y asombrosos del planeta.

ESPÍRITU AVENTURERO

Aquaracer Professional 200, un reloj hecho para exploradores

El nuevo modelo Aquaracer Professional 200 representa el siguiente paso en la reformulación de la emblemática colección de relojes herramienta de TAG Heuer. Pese a que a que ocupará su lugar en la colección Aquaracer Professional como el hermano pequeño del reloj Aquaracer Professional 300, se trata de un diseño exclusivo por derecho propio, con una extensa lista de adaptaciones estéticas cuidadosamente estudiadas que le confieren su personalidad deportiva y versátil. Su aspecto sofisticado, equilibrado e imponente es fruto de varios años de investigación y desarrollo por parte de los equipos de diseño e ingeniería de TAG Heuer.

En conjunto, el lanzamiento del nuevo modelo consta de once referencias, todas ellas en acero inoxidable. Con independencia del tamaño de la caja o de los detalles de cada versión, todos ellos son relojes atrevidos y dinámicos, ideales para la escalada en hielo o el vuelo a gran velocidad, pero también para la vida característica de las ciudades más cosmopolitas del mundo. Cada uno de ellos ha sido sometido a las pruebas más rigurosas en la manufactura de TAG Heuer en La Chaux-de-Fonds para comprobar su precisión, su estanqueidad y su resistencia a la abrasión, así como para garantizar que la correa soporte tensiones accidentales. La principal garantía de la colección Aquaracer Professional es su rendimiento bajo presión.

El modelo Aquaracer Professional 200 inaugura un nuevo capitulo en la historia de los relojes TAG Heuer, diseñados y concebidos para las mayores aventuras de la vida.

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VUELTA A LOS ORÍGENES DEL ORO AMARILLO: HUBLOT SE RECONECTA CON SU ESPÍRITU FUNDADOR

VUELTA A LOS ORÍGENES DEL ORO AMARILLO: HUBLOT SE RECONECTA CON SU ESPÍRITU FUNDADOR

Las nuevas piezas de https://www.hublot.com/presentadas en exclusiva en la LVMH Watch Week recuperan la esencia original de la manufactura: la fusión del oro y el caucho en una estética sport chic, en una época en la que, hace más de 40 años, el concepto de reloj sport chic no incluso existir.

Cada una de estas seis piezas representa un pedacito de la historia de la manufactura y de la forma en que avanza. Una línea clara entre lo que fue, es y será Hublot. Recorriendo 40 años de historia, saber hacer, creatividad, total dominio técnico y los cimientos de una leyenda que, hace 40 años, tenía un solo modelo: la Classic Original de 1980.

Hoy, cada pieza marca un capítulo en la gran aventura de Hublot: el nacimiento del Big Bang, Classic Fusion, the Spirit of Big Bang, el arte del engaste, el esqueleto y la creación de los primeros movimientos de manufactura, entre otros. A su manera individual, estas seis piezas fusionan los elementos estéticos y técnicos de la firma de https://www.hublot.com/. Eso sí, siempre con un denominador común: oro amarillo y negro.

Encuentra su expresión más esencial en el Classic Fusion Chronograph. Es la primera vez que se produce en oro amarillo en un diámetro de 42 mm. Un bicompax limpio, sobrio, elegante y automático: el primero, original y único.

Le sigue de cerca el Big Bang Integral, realizado íntegramente en oro amarillo (caja, bisel y brazalete). Esta versión, diseñada a partir de un solo bloque de oro macizo, también está disponible completamente engastada con diamantes, junto con la última versión de Alta Joyería.

Este trío icónico se completa con la última generación de colecciones contemporáneas de Hublot: el único e inigualable Big Bang Unico y el escultural Spirit of Big Bang. El Big Bang es el primero en presentar una caja de 42 mm íntegramente en oro amarillo con correa de caucho y movimiento Unico. Es la encarnación definitiva del espíritu de fabricación 100 % de Hublot y cuenta con un calibre con una reserva de marcha de 3 días y un exterior que fusiona el oro amarillo, el negro profundo, el trabajo esquelético, el rendimiento y la potencia.

Y finalmente, el Espíritu del Big Bang. Aquí el énfasis está en el diseño, que adopta la forma de un exquisito tonel con líneas rectas y curvas alternas, con superficies pulidas y satinadas de oro amarillo brillante que crean una espectacular danza de luces. En una versión de 42 mm con movimiento esqueletizado, comparte su sistema de correa intercambiable One Click con el Big Bang y aún funciona con el calibre HUB4700, uno de los movimientos más precisos disponibles con una frecuencia de 5 Hz (36 000 vib/h).

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Vacheron Constantin – Les Cabinotiers Grande Complication Bacchus

Vacheron Constantin – Les Cabinotiers Grande Complication Bacchus

  • This single-piece edition referring to astronomy and mythology combines engraving and gem-setting on the outside of the case.
  • Remarkable mastery of the art of craftsmanship, along with watchmaking expertise: 16 complications on a double-sided wristwatch, beating to the rhythm of in-house calibre 2755 GCC16.
  • Inspired by mythology, the decoration gracing the pink gold case takes the form of a bas-relief sculpture featuring vine leaves and clusters of grapes set with rubies in a nod to Bacchus.

Geneva, January 2022 – The single-piece edition Les Cabinotiers Grande Complication Bacchus combines Vacheron Constantin’s expertise in grand complication watches with its mastery of artistic crafts. This double-sided wristwatch comprises 16 complications, essentially astronomical and calendar-related, powered by Calibre 2755 GC16 with minute repeater and tourbillon. A technical feat housed in an 18K 5N gold case whose middle is sculpted in bas-relief. In tribute to the god of vines and wine, this “Bacchus” watch finds another source of inspiration in Johannes Kepler, resulting in a captivating association between mythology and astronomy.

The single-piece edition Les Cabinotiers Grand Complication Bacchus offers proof that the tradition of combining artistic crafts with watchmaking expertise remains alive and well within the Maison. Vacheron Constantin’s master engravers and gem-setters have worked together to make this watch an applied arts masterpiece powered by in-house Calibre 2755 GC16, whose complexity is expressed through its 16 complications. This double-sided creation dedicated to Bacchus, the Roman god of vines and wine is adorned with ruby grapes set in gold foliage hand-carved. In addition to these mythological references, the tourbillon and minute repeater movement displays virtually every astronomical and calendar-type complication a timepiece can muster. This association between the study of the stars and the divine world, between Bacchus and Johannes Kepler, makes this timepiece doubly remarkable.

Artistic crafts perform a duet

The 18K 5N pink gold case of this Les Cabinotiers timepiece features a decoration composed of vine leaves interspersed with bunches of ruby grapes. The engraver’s work is complemented by that of the gem-setter on the outside of the case in giving life to figurative motifs, making this watch a piece of fine craftsmanship. The two master artisans working on this model took turns, with the gem-setter first taking the case from the engraver’s hands and then returning it for the last finishing touches, a progressive duet-style operation that required more than 300 hours of combined dexterity.

Before embarking on such a project, an initial gem-setting test had to be performed on part of the case middle that had been prepared beforehand, so as to ensure the feasibility of the project and the various phases of its development. After putting the decoration in place using a scribing tool, the engraver began to prepare the model using the bas-relief technique that consists of creating cells or troughs by delicately “gouging” the material with a burin to make the foliage motif stand out. This preparation included the 113 recessed spaces for the five different sized rubies that form the grapes along with enough surrounding material to hold them in place. The gem-setter then took over, in successive phases, in order to set the cabochon-cut rubies using a technique combining prong and bezel setting, involving a minimum of three points of attachment.

Once the bunches of grapes had been formed, the engraver took over the model to perform the finishing, while facing the added difficulty of having to work around the gem-set parts without touching them. The vine leaves were thus delicately modelled using the intaglio engraving technique that involve hollowing out the material and then polished. And because every detail is important, the engraver took the trouble to dig slightly below the outline of each leaf so as to accentuate the 3D visual effect. This foliage thus emerges clearly against the case middle, especially as the base has been delicately chased. To achieve this sandblasted effect, the engraver hammers the surface point by point so as to enhance the contrast with the raised polished elements.

The case decoration continues on the bezel and case-back with a hand engraving depicting vine leaves. The difficulty implied by this intaglio engraving lies in the absence of a border or contour line. Hollowed out across the entire width of the bezel, the garland thus stands alone thanks to the metronomic regularity of the motif. This latter aspect is picked up on the two fastening options – folding clasp and pin buckle – accompanying the watch and which required a full week’s work in themselves.

Calibre 2755 GC16

To create the movement of this highly complicated watch, Vacheron Constantin’s watchmakers took the Tour de l’Île as a reference, a timepiece presented in 2005 as a tribute to 250 years of watchmaking expertise cultivated by the Geneva-based Manufacture. In the same spirit, the Les Cabinotiers – Bacchus timepiece combines 16 complications, making it one of the most complex watches produced by the Maison. For the sake of precision timekeeping, its manual winding Calibre 2755 GC16 is equipped with a tourbillon regulator to compensate for the effects of the earth’s gravity on the mechanism. Featuring a cage shaped like Vacheron Constantin’s signature Maltese cross emblem, the tourbillon completes one full rotation per minute, thus serving as a small seconds indicator. This watch also incorporates a minute repeater chiming the hours, quarters and minutes on demand. To avoid unnecessary noise as well as wear and tear on the mechanism, the striking of the gongs is equipped with an ingenious centripetal flying strike regulator. This perfectly silent device regulates the duration of the musical sequences so as to obtain clear, distinct and regular sounds.

The calendar and astronomical functions play a starring role on both sides of the watch. On the front, where the mechanical ballet of the tourbillon can be admired at 6 o’clock, the perpetual calendar indications are displayed on three counters. Positioned in the upper part of the dial, they respectively show the date, day and month. Designed to keep track of the Gregorian calendar’s vagaries without any need for adjustment until 2100, this horological complication is further enhanced by the indication of the leap-year cycle. The latter appears in a small aperture next to the hand indicating the torque of the minute repeater mechanism between 1 and 2 o’clock. This striking mechanism power reserve is matched by an indication of the movement power reserve, which can be read by means of a serpentine pointer coaxial with the day of the week hand.

The complex mechanics of this piece also provide an astronomical reading of time representing a tribute to Johannes Kepler (1571-1630), regarded as one of the founders of modern astronomy for having discovered the laws of planetary motion, in perfect agreement with Copernicus’ heliocentric hypotheses. The first astronomical functions thus appear on this same opaline champagne-coloured dial, starting with the equation of time positioned between 10 and 11 o’clock. As the Earth’s path around the Sun is not circular but elliptical, and since the Earth’s axis is inclined at 24° to the plane of its orbit, the time between two zenith passages of the Sun is not the same throughout the year. This difference between the (true) solar day and the (average) 24-hour civil day ranges from -16 to +14 minutes depending on the time of year and coincides only four times a year. Called the equation of time, or time correction in astronomical language, this differential is displayed by a dedicated pointer, while sunrise and sunset times – adjusted according to a reference city – appear at the bottom of the dial.

An astronomical watch as conceived by the watchmakers at Vacheron Constantin would not be complete without a sidereal time indication. This display finds its place the back of the watch in the shape of a rotating disc depicting the celestial vault with its constellations observable from the Northern hemisphere. Taking a fixed star in the sky as a reference point, the time required for the Earth to complete a full 360° rotation, or sidereal day, is exactly 23 hours, 56 minutes and 4 seconds. Since the Earth is both spinning on its axis and revolving around the Sun, it takes about four minutes less than a calendar day to return to its point of origin relative to a given star. On this model, the “celestial” disc thus performs a complete rotation according to sidereal time with the time displayed on the periphery, opposite the date appearing on the periphery of the mobile disc. This same date is read off by a large central hand moving over the fixed outer flange bearing a scale graduated in five-day increments. This hand also indicates the sign of the zodiac, the season and the four dates corresponding to the solstices and equinoxes. Finally, the small central hand indicates the age of the moon, i.e. the number of days that have elapsed since the last full moon.

Comprising 839 parts and measuring a total 33.90 mm in diameter and 12.15 mm thick, this movement endowed with a 58-hour power reserve represents a technical feat that is all the rarer in that it displays all its functions in a perfectly legible manner on both sides. Equipped with a balance oscillating at a rate of 18,000 vibrations per hour (2.5 Hz), it is housed in a 47 mm-diameter 18K 5N pink gold case, of which the characteristics been specifically designed to provide the best possible sound quality for the minute repeater.

“Le Temps Céleste”

 Each year, the Les Cabinotiers department unveils a range of single-piece editions relating to a theme cherished by Vacheron Constantin. The year 2021 is dedicated to “Le Temps Céleste” (which means Celestial Time), with timepieces referring to the astronomical origins of time measurement.

From the dawn of civilisations, the cycle of days and seasons, the evolution of constellations in the night sky, the phases of the moon and eclipses have exerted an almost mystical fascination. Eager to unravel the mysteries of the universe, the first human beings found in mythological tales a cosmogony blending legends with poetry. At a very early stage, the first scientific minds attempted to decipher the rhythms of Nature and to organise them according to predictable patterns.

It was from these calculations, and with the appearance of writing, that the first calendars were born, before the Babylonian sexagesimal system gave meaning to the physical division of time into units of angle. Traditional watchmaking is a direct heir to this rigorous and scientific approach, expressed today on watches with depictions of the calendar, the sky chart, moon phases, tides and seasons, and even civil, solar and sidereal time with their differentials. Vacheron Constantin has nevertheless sought to endow these genuine observation instruments with all the charm of the founding myths through the subtlety of its craftsmanship, through its work in guilloché engraving and the engraving of symbolic motifs, or in the “stellar” glittering of gem-set stones. This new Les Cabinotiers range is the expression of exceptional expertise in astronomical watches, dedicated to the poetry of time.

Vacheron Constantin and astronomical watches

Astronomical watches enjoy a rich and longstanding tradition within the Maison. The Vacheron Constantin archives reveal a first perpetual calendar in 1884, integrated into a double-sided yellow gold pocket watch, now part of the Maison’s private collection. This was the beginning of a mechanical “epic” that would singularly take shape at the turn of the century. In 1900, the Maison set up a workshop exclusively dedicated to the assembly of watches with complications, often incorporating astronomical functions. Orders flooded in for complicated and even very complicated watches. The perpetual calendar was then combined with other technical feats such as those enriching a 1905 pocket watch comprising a minute repeater, split-seconds chronograph and perpetual calendar with phases and age of the moon.

Delivered in 1929, the pocket watch made for King Fouad I of Egypt with chronograph, perpetual calendar, Grande and Petite Sonnerie and minute repeater functions is characteristic of this golden age. This exceptional watchmaking expertise, later applied to wristwatches, would be powerfully expressed in the Tour de l’Île with its 16 horological and astronomical complications, produced in 2005 to mark the 250th anniversary of the Maison. It features a sky chart, a complication that has become a speciality of Vacheron Constantin. Reference 57260, which has 57 complications, also features a sky chart, notably accompanied by sidereal time and a secular Hebrew calendar. In 2017, Vacheron Constantin once again innovated with Calibre 3600, powering displays of civil, solar and sidereal time, the latter synchronised with a mobile representation of constellations.

Les Cabinotiers: single-piece editions

In the Vacheron Constantin universe, Les Cabinotiers represents a department in its own right dedicated to the personalisation of Grand Complication models and single-piece editions. This tradition dates back to the 18th century, an age when master-watchmakers were called cabinotiers and worked in ateliers bathed in natural light, known as cabinets and located on the top floors of Geneva’s buildings. In the hands of these learned artisans, open to the new ideas of the Enlightenment, exceptional timepieces were born, inspired by astronomy, mechanical engineering and the arts. This expertise, which constitutes the great Geneva watchmaking tradition, has been flowing through Vacheron Constantin’s veins since 1755.

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Sum-up

Astronomy and mythology meet and mingle in the Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers Grand Complication Bacchus watch. This union of science and art finds an original field of expression in this highly sophisticated Grand Complication timepiece. The mythological references to Bacchus, the god of vines and wine, are symbolised by the ornamentation of the case with a vineyard motif. The Maison’s master engravers and gem-setters have worked together to create a bas-relief vine foliage on the case middle of the watch, embellished with ruby-set bunches of grapes. A masterpiece of applied arts, this model is doubly remarkable for its Calibre 2755 GC16 movement powering 16 complications and representing one of the most complex ever made by the Manufacture. A tourbillon and striking watch with a minute repeater mechanism, Les Cabinotiers Grand Complication Bacchus brings together on its double-sided display the essential calendar and astronomical functions in tribute to Johannes Kepler, one of the founders of modern astronomy. The perpetual calendar offers an equation of time indication as well as sunrise and sunset times on the front, complemented on the back by a display of sidereal time with a rotating sky chart of the constellations, the age of the moon along with indications of the date, seasons and signs of the zodiac. Through this timepiece, Vacheron Constantin perpetuates the grand watchmaking tradition of pocket watches that are both mechanically complex and richly decorated.

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TECHNICAL DATA

Reference 9700C/000R-B755

Caliber 2755 GC16
Developed and manufactured by Vacheron Constantin
Mechanical, manual-winding
33.90 mm diameter, 12.15 mm thick
Approximately 58 hours of power reserve
2.5Hz (18,000 vibrations/hour)
839 components
42 jewels
Hallmark of Geneva certified timepiece

Indications
Front side: Hours, minutes, small second at 6 o’clock on tourbillon carriage – Minute repeater – Tourbillon – Perpetual calendar (date, day of the week, month, leap year) – Power reserve indication – Equation of time – Sunrise time – Sunset time – Alarm torque indication
Back side: Sky chart – Age and phases of the moon – Sidereal hours and minutes – Seasons, zodiac signs

Setting
Hours and minutes adjustment: winding crown (2 positions)
Moon phase adjustment: correction push-piece on the case
Perpetual calendar adjustment: two correction push-pieces on the case
Sky chart adjustment: with crown and screwed-down push-piece

Case
18K 5N pink gold with bezel and back side hand-engraved with “vine leaves” and case band hand-engraved with “vine leaves” and gem-set with 113 rubies for a total weight of approximately 1.84 cts representing bunch of grapes
47 mm diameter, 19.10 mm thick

Dials (face & back side)
Champagne opaline dials
18K 5N pink gold applied hour-markers
18K 5N pink gold hands

Strap
Dark brown Mississippiensis alligator leather, hand-stitched, saddle-finish, large square scales

Buckle
18K 5N pink gold folding clasp and buckle hand-engraved with a “vine leaves” pattern
Half Maltese cross-shaped

Box
Les Cabinotiers Prestige box

Accessories
Delivered with a corrector pen and a magnifying glass
A winder box

Single-piece edition
« Les Cabinotiers », « Pièce unique », « AC » hallmark engraved on caseback

OYSTER PERPETUAL LADY-DATEJUST THE AUDACITY OF EXCELLENCE
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ROLEX Oyster Perpetual Lady Date-just the audacity of excellence

ROLEX Oyster Perpetual Lady Date-just the audacity of excellence

“A classic designed for a lady”. So might some describe the Oyster Perpetual Lady-Datejust. Maybe they’re right. If “classic” means perpetuating tradition with a blend of elegance and precision, grace and resistance, beauty and technical performance. If being “a lady” means constantly pursuing a higher standard with unyielding determination. Then indeed the Lady-Datejust is a classic designed for a lady.

OYSTER PERPETUAL LADY-DATEJUST THE AUDACITY OF EXCELLENCE

OYSTER PERPETUAL LADY-DATEJUST THE AUDACITY OF EXCELLENCE

1957. THE BIRTH OF AN ICON.
Audrey Hepburn was captivating Hollywood, Sylvia Earle obtained her Master of Science, Françoise Sagan was shaking up the literary landscape, Pat Smythe reigned supreme in equestrian sport, and fashion designer Adèle Simpson had New-York clamouring for her latest creations. Women were changing.

No less ladylike than their mothers, they were enjoying new, active lifestyles. Hans Wilsdorf, the founder of Rolex, understood this: the modern woman wanted to manage her time to control her destiny. She needed as much precision as men. And so was born, in 1957, Rolex’s classic women’s watch: the Lady-Datejust. A watch of smaller proportions built on unwavering standards of excellence. A watch for women that was every bit as reliable as a man’s. With this innovation, the brand had broken new technical ground in terms of the case size, while also obtaining COSC chronometric certification for this small model.

The Lady-Datejust was inspired by audacity. It addressed not only a technical challenge but a cultural one, too: this watch would serve to further women’s independence. An uncompromising creation, combining elegance and accuracy on the wrist of a modern, graceful and accomplished woman. A symbol of assertiveness expressed in exquisitely feminine form.

Incorporating several decades of watchmaking innovations, the Lady-Datejust has established itself as the ultimate classic women’s watch: a piece of technical prowess
made for women who believe in themselves.

OYSTER PERPETUAL LADY-DATEJUST THE AUDACITY OF EXCELLENCE

OYSTER PERPETUAL LADY-DATEJUST THE AUDACITY OF EXCELLENCE

AN AUTHENTICALLY MODERN CLASSIC

Adopted by women whose steadfast determination has led them to remarkable achievements, the Lady-Datejust graces the wrist of the marine biologist Sylvia Earle, the golf champion Annika Sörenstam, and the singer Dame Kiri Te Kanawa. As pioneers in each of their fields, they portray a new image of femininity: engaged, modern and in permanent pursuit of excellence.

Inspired by their legacy, the next generation is bringing renewed vigour to disciplines across the spectrum. Whether it be the prodigious pianist Yuja Wang, the tennis champion Garbiñe Muguruza, the biologist Emma Camp working to protect coral reefs, or the sitar virtuoso Anoushka Shankar, these women are the new faces of
contemporary femininity.

FEATURES OF THE LADY-DATEJUST
• Classic timeless elegance
• Instantaneous date with Cyclops lens
• Many variants (large selection of dials, bezels and bracelets)
• Superlative Chronometer certification, specific to Rolex
• International five-year guarantee
• Self-winding mechanical movement, COSC certified
• Power reserve of 55 hours
• Syloxi hairspring in silicon
• High-performance Paraflex shock absorbers
• 28 mm Oyster case, waterproof to a depth of 100 metres (330 feet)

WATCHMAKING KNOW-HOW AND TECHNOLOGY CONCENTRATED IN A SMALL WATCH 28 MM OYSTER CASE A SMALL CASE FOR A GREAT WATCHMAKING ACHIEVEMENT

OYSTER PERPETUAL LADY-DATEJUST THE AUDACITY OF EXCELLENCE

OYSTER PERPETUAL LADY-DATEJUST THE AUDACITY OF EXCELLENCE

The Lady-Datejust’s Oyster case, 28 mm in diameter and guaranteed waterproof to a depth of 100 metres (330 feet), is a paragon of robustness and elegance. The middle case is crafted from a solid block of Oystersteel, a particularly corrosion-resistant alloy, or from 18 ct gold. The case back, edged with fine fluting, is hermetically screwed down with a special tool that allows only certified Rolex watchmakers to access the movement.

The Twinlock winding crown, fitted with a double waterproofness system, screws down securely against the case. The crystal, with a Cyclops lens at 3 o’clock for easy reading of
the date, is made of virtually scratchproof sapphire. The waterproof Oyster case provides optimum protection for the Lady-Datejust’s movement.

OYSTER PERPETUAL LADY-DATEJUST THE AUDACITY OF EXCELLENCE

OYSTER PERPETUAL LADY-DATEJUST THE AUDACITY OF EXCELLENCE

PERPETUAL CALIBRE 2236 A MOVEMENT AT THE FOREFRONT OF WATCHMAKING TECHNOLOGY

The Lady-Datejust is equipped with calibre 2236, a self-winding mechanical movement entirely developed and manufactured by Rolex. A consummate demonstration of technology, this movement carries a number of patents. It offers outstanding performance in terms of precision, power reserve, resistance to shocks and magnetic fields, convenience and reliability. The oscillator of calibre 2236 has a balance wheel with variable inertia regulated extremely precisely via gold Microstella nuts. It is held firmly in place by a height-adjustable traversing bridge enabling very stable positioning to increase shock resistance. The oscillator is also fitted on high-performance Paraflex shock absorbers, designed and patented by Rolex.

Calibre 2236 is fitted with a self-winding module via a Perpetual rotor, which ensures continuous winding of the mainspring by harnessing the movements of the wrist to provide constant energy. It offers a power reserve of approximately 55 hours.

The movement of the Lady-Datejust will be seen only by certified Rolex watchmakers, yet it is beautifully finished and decorated in keeping with the brand’s uncompromising
quality standards.

SYLOXI HAIRSPRING AN EXCLUSIVE HAIRSPRING FOR OPTIMUM STABILITY

Calibre 2236 incorporates a Syloxi hairspring in silicon, which is patented and manufactured by Rolex. Insensitive to magnetic fields, the Syloxi hairspring provides great stability in the face of temperature variations and remains up to 10 times more precise than a traditional hairspring in case of shocks.

The Syloxi hairspring found in calibre 2236 has a geometry that guarantees the regularity of the movement in any position. It also includes a paramagnetic nickel-phosphorus
escape wheel.

A SINGULAR WATCH IN EVERY WAY

The quintessentially classic watch, known for its timeless and inimitable style, the Lady-Datejust has, over time, unveiled a variety of bezels and dials that reflect as much the personality of its wearer as the model’s ability to renew its own elegance in fine detail. It beckons its owner to shape its own future.

DIALS, BEZELS AND CASES

Multiple dial variations are possible on the Lady-Datejust. They are available in a wealth of materials, colours, motifs and markers – indices, Roman or Arab numerals – with numerous gem-setting options for the hour markers or the dial itself. Among the iconic champagne-colour, silver, white, pink and diamond-set dials, the dial in mother-of-pearl
stands out for its singularity. Domed, fluted or gem-set, the bezel of the Lady-Datejust is available in three different designs, each conferring its own distinctive aesthetic.

MOTHER-OF-PEARL DIAL NATURAL ELEGANCE

Mother-of-pearl is by its nature full of mystery and surprises. Depending on its origin, it can be pink, white, black or yellow. It differs in colour, intensity and structure according to the part of the shell from which it is extracted. At Rolex, mother-of-pearl is never artificially coloured. Instead, particular know-how and skill are devoted to simply highlighting its natural beauty and preserving the original hues. As all mother-of-pearl dials are unique pieces, an identical dial will never be found on another wrist.

GOLD AND OYSTERSTEEL

The Lady-Datejust is available in several metal alloys: Oystersteel, 18 ct yellow, white or Everose gold, and in a Rolesor version (combining Oystersteel and yellow, white or
Everose gold).

GOLDS BY ROLEX

Whether yellow, white or Everose, the 18 ct gold of the Lady-Datejust shines with a special radiance. Rolex has its own foundry and develops its gold alloys from the purest
raw materials. From casting to the shaping and polishing of the gold, everything is carried out in the Rolex workshops with meticulous care to ensure impeccable quality. Everose gold, an exclusive 18 ct pink gold alloy developed and patented by Rolex, owes its unique hue to its exclusive composition.

THE GEM-SET LADY-DATEJUST

In 2021, Rolex introduced a new sparkling version of its Oyster Perpetual Lady-Datejust. This entirely gem-set version in 18 ct yellow gold is draped in glittering diamonds. The case is entirely set with 158 brilliant-cut diamonds on the case sides and lugs, while the bezel features 44 brilliant-cut diamonds. This new Lady-Datejust is fitted on a President bracelet set with 596 brilliant-cut diamonds. Its dial is paved with 291 brilliant-cut diamonds.

Baume & Mercier celebrates haute horlogerie design is expressed in all its forms
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Baume & Mercier celebrates haute horlogerie design is expressed in all its forms

Baume & Mercier celebrates haute horlogerie design is expressed in all its forms

GIVE YOUR X-MAS A NEW SHAPE

GIVE YOUR X-MAS A NEW SHAPE

From the Hampton to the Riviera, from Clifton to Baume or Classima, it is a rhythmic tableau of curves and angles that form and intertwine to no end… No limits, ever.

Baume & Mercier has played with shapes and materials, unveiling a diverse selection for the holiday season. Christmas is alive, the night sparkles. The creativity and technical prowess of the infinitely small are celebrated while bright baubles, decorated trees, and shining stars infiltrate our homes in perfect elegance. A ballet of light and shadow begins in this subtle blend of tradition and modernity. And last but not least, respect for conventions!

Baume et Mercier celebrates watchmaking with character, collectively, even collaboratively. An invitation to celebrate Christmas in a new way, as you like. There’s nothing better for the occasion than to satisfy absolutely every desire: discover a radiant tribute to all the collections, each with its own distinctive design. Dive into a graphic, artistic, and luminous Christmas with the lightheartedness we all need at the end of 2021.

Baume & Mercier wishes you all a happy holiday season!

Riviera: You don’t need a passport to see the Riviera.

2021 saw the grand return of the Riviera watch with its famous dodecagonal case… 12 corners like the 12 months that are coming to a close, bringing us ever closer to what Baume & Mercier now wants to embody through its timepieces: creative, elegant watchmaking with character… Here, without softening the edges!

The Riviera is an assertive and uncompromising collection. Dive into the shades of the Mediterranean, appreciate the sharp edges and the comfort of sporty materials around your wrist. Chic and sophisticated, it is back with its distinctive design and sparkling colors. For Christmas, there is no shortage of options: a watch in polished/satin-finished or black microblasted ADLC steel, interchangeable straps – either steel or integrated grained satin-finished rubber, a lacquered dial decorated with waves or a smoky black sapphire dial, a 36, 42, or 43 mm case, a quartz or automatic movement, a host of functions including small seconds, chronograph, day and date apertures… To each his own Riviera! The Riviera is yours, in all its forms.

Seize the one that suits you.

Riviera 10616, Riviera 10625, Riviera 10618, Riviera 10683

Clifton: Built to last a lifetime and designed to turn heads for just as long.

Clifton is the ultimate Baume & Mercier watch collection. A genuine tribute to the expert craftsmanship that the Brand has preserved for nearly two centuries. Behind the soft, elegant curves of these watches is all the expertise and finesse that fascinates fine watchmaking aficionados, with no compromise on style. Its classic lines allow it to stand the test of time, while the innovation and performance of the Baumatic movement at its heart continue to surprise and captivate. That is the secret of its timelessness. Baume & Mercier expresses itself here with round and voluptuous shapes, giving the Clifton collection masterful balance.

The Clifton watch is the perfect intergenerational Christmas gift combining modernity, functionality, and precision engineering. Classic, colorful, more watchmaking artistry, always very powerful. There are so many combinations that you won’t know which one to choose: a smoky gray, intense red, or forest green lacquered dial, an 18K rose gold or polished/satin-finished steel case, a black or blue alligator strap with square scales, a certified chronometer function (COSC) or day, date, and moon phase apertures… The Clifton collection will shine in all its facets under your illuminated Christmas tree for Christmas as it should be!

Clifton 10467, Clifton 10592, Clifton 10591, Clifton 10548

Classima: The ultimate elegance is discretion. Classima, simply self-evident.

Classima is the round, classic watch with perfect proportions, always pleasant to wear: timeless, ageless, never insolent. The watch that Baume & Mercier never ceases to reinterpret with modernity and style, making light of the materials, from the most traditional to the most innovative. Dive into a palette of unique colors, allow yourself to be carried away by small creative touches. Everyone wants their own Classima. This collection embodies the art of simplicity.

For the holiday season, Classima unveils its panoply of sizes, materials, and colors to suit every desire, every look, and every budget. 31, 34, 39, or 42 mm, a quartz or automatic movement, a polished/satin-finished steel or 18K rose gold case, a slate sun satin-finished or white mother-of-pearl dial, rhodium-plated or diamond-set indexes… Anything is possible! Interchangeable straps also offer multiple combinations for every occasion: canvas, alligator with overstitching, or five rows of polished stainless steel – indulge yourself… Of course, all the watches can be personalized with the engraving of your choice, the ultimate final touch for an unforgettable gift. Classic yet contemporary, elegant yet sometimes surprising, its perfect round shape will be sweeping people off their feet for years to come. And Christmas is the right time to treat yourself!

Classima 10608, Classima 10607, Classima 10633, Clifton 10598  

Hampton: For when it feels like everybody else is going around in circles.

Between creativity and elegance, the Hampton collection made its great comeback two years ago. With its rectangular case, which was considered unconventional and avant-garde when launched, it continues to symbolize renewal and hope in tribute to the Art Deco movement. Baume & Mercier has reinterpreted its silhouettes in step with the times: a colorful fashion show that combines creativity and finesse for these jewelry watches, whose interchangeable straps offer multiple variations to satisfy each of your desires.

For both men and women, in 18K rose gold, polished/satin-finished steel, or even set with diamonds, this collection has its own unique characteristics: “glaive” hands or a cabochon-shaped crown, the well-marked minute track that emphasizes the perimeter of the dial and enhances the geometric Art Deco effect… Hampton watches are worth discovering or rediscovering, and we can’t get enough of them! They leave the classic codes behind by playing with shapes, embracing the world, and daring. Hampton is the collection that elegantly stands out from the crowd. The ideal gift for a Christmas free of conventions, to be celebrated however you wish!

Hampton 10528, Hampton 10472, Hampton 10630, Hampton 10628  

Baume: A different take on the concept of time. By Baume.

The latest Baume collection embodies renewal and creativity in the context of sustainable development, the circular economy, and protecting the environment. Swiss made, it reinvents time in motion. This collection has a strong design signature with its crown centered at noon, its articulated lugs at noon and 6 o’clock, its interchangeable bracelet with buttons, and its filigree hands.

Amidst the natural, offbeat materials are attributes such as a handcrafted decoration or small functions to evoke Baume & Mercier’s watchmaking roots. Here, it is not a question of dwelling on traditions but rather of making things happen and moving with the times in a different way. We don’t abide by the rules, we make them our own! A committed approach and a collection to embody it.

Baume watches are invited to the holiday season in an explosion of creativity adorned with their cotton or linen straps. With a 35 or 41 mm case, equipped here with a quartz movement, with a blue satin or white opaline dial coated with PVD steel, there is something for everyone. We like the black date at 6 o’clock and the small seconds hand with its gilt flange. Baume reinvents the watchmaking codes with style, finesse, and the nonconformity that was missing to arouse certain curiosities. For the more poetic, one of the models reveals a moon phase at its center encircled by a hypnotic minute track: a modern and daring interpretation of this complication with two moons against a starry background with a very graphic look. Baume & Mercier lights Christmas up from another angle and offers a form of collective, collaborative, and responsible watchmaking with its Baume collection.

Baume 10600, Baume 10637, Baume 10639, Baume 10638

MBandFXBulgari_FlyingT_Allegra
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MB&F x BULGARI LEGACY MACHINE FLYING T ALLEGRA

MB&F x BULGARI

LEGACY MACHINE FLYING T ALLEGRA

The story of the collaboration between Bulgari and MB&F is first and foremost that of an encounter – initially motivated by mutual professional respect and subsequently evolving into a strong friendship – between Bulgari’s Product Creation Executive Director, Fabrizio Buonamassa Stigliani; and MB&F’s Founder and Creative Director, Maximilian Büsser. The outcome is FlyingT Allegra, a joint and unexpected feminine creation merging various skills, but above all two mindsets.

MBandFXBulgari_Wristsh

MBandFXBulgari_Wristsh

This story is also that of an unlikely connection, of two paradoxes combining to form a single, homogeneous and sophisticated whole. It is also the story of an encounter between two unusual and unconventional creative approaches. When MB&F and Bulgari decide to join forces, the result can only be extraordinary, in the truest sense of the word.

Both Bulgari and MB&F display strong character in their respective fields yet are also very different. The Rome-based Maison is known for its love of cabochon-cut coloured gems in jewellery watch creations, expressing Mediterranean warmth and exuberance – diametrically opposed to the currently prevailing classicism. Born in 2005, MB&F took the decision to design radical timepieces exploring previously uncharted conceptual territory within a watch industry environment characterised by stubborn conventionalism.

The two brands were thus bound to converge on a shared platform: that of their jewellery-making and mechanical audacity. MB&F works on volumes and complexity, while Bulgari creates two-dimensional models with a radically graphic aesthetic. The choice to revisit MB&F’s Legacy Machine FlyingT was thus both natural and logical, since FlyingT Allegra incorporates both sensibilities.

Radical in terms of its architecture and construction, while exquisitely precious in terms of its opulent ornamentation, this creation was intended as a tribute to femininity. In its name FlyingT, the T stands for the initial of Max Büsser’s wife, Tiffany, as well as for flying Tourbillon. In an ultimate refined touch embodying this sophisticated approach, the movement is designed in such a way that only its owner can read the time.

While this may seem simple, the reality is quite different. The movement is vertically built along a central axis orchestrating the overall architecture of the entirely visible mechanism. In this respect, the watch deliberately goes against tradition, since everything that is usually hidden is highlighted here in a three-dimensional construction.

The upper end of the axis carries the diamond-set flying tourbillon and the balance, a vibrant technical organ against which the hours and minutes dial is set at a 50-degree angle, precisely defined so that the owner of the FlyingT Allegra is the only one who can read the time. The case-back reveals the sun-shaped oscillating weight: its gold sandblasted rays rotate on the ruthenium disc positioned above a platinum counterweight.

Between the regulating organ and the rotor, the barrel ensures an extremely generous 100-hour power reserve made possible by the reduction in the number of gears. A sapphire crystal dome tops this three-dimensional assembly, beneath which one can admire the organic life of the movement.

This unusual construction with its feminine-themed design could not have been more appropriate for Bulgari. The volumes of the watch – featuring a case entirely redesigned by Bulgari to give it a futuristic and opulent profile – are matched by those of the coloured stones. These gems serve to counterbalance the cold precision and micromechanical complexity of this model by instilling the Roman jeweller’s warm and exuberant signature touch. For each of the 20 timepieces composing the two pink or white limited editions, jewellers have carefully selected tourmaline, tsavorite, diamonds, rubellite, amethyst, tanzanite and topaz, in an exceptional composition forming a full circle around the movement. The dial entirely paved with snow-set diamonds provides a dazzling backdrop.

In contrast to conventional high jewellery codes, Bulgari has always favoured the use of coloured stones rather than diamonds alone. Coloured gems enable the Rome-based Maison to create authentic compositions through a gradual process aimed at achieving harmony and chromatic power adapted to the design of the model. Cut is very important, and Bulgari favours the cabochon which ensures extreme clarity of the stone while emphasising the opulence of the creation. The cabochon cut perfectly matches the FlyingT Allegra’s round and voluminous case.

This exceptional partnership goes far beyond the realm of the complicated feminine jewellery watch. It highlights two visions of the world, two interpretations of creativity that are radically different in form, yet which merge in substance within an integrated and harmonious co-creation vividly demonstrating the power of two.

ABOUT THE FLYING T ENGINE

In a departure from most modern watch movements, which take a radial and co-planar approach to movement construction, the LM FlyingT engine utilises a vertical and co-axial approach. The cinematic flying tourbillon, which boldly projects beyond the dial-plate of LM FlyingT, is a visually stunning example of the rotating escapement and stands in stark contrast to other flying tourbillons, which usually do not venture past the confines of their surrounding watch dials.

Flying tourbillons, as their name suggests, are anchored only at their base, with no stabilising bridge to restrict lateral motion at the top. This increased need for overall rigidity is what causes the conservative placement of most flying tourbillons within their movements. Legacy Machine FlyingT breaks free of this limiting need for movement security and confidently displays its flying tourbillon in all its glory.

In order to display the time as precisely as possible on the 50° inclined dial, conical gears were employed to optimally transmit torque from one plane to another. The 280-component engine of Legacy Machine FlyingT has a power reserve of four days (100 hours), which is among the highest within MB&F.

MB&F x BULGARI – LM FLYING T ALLEGRA

TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS

20 pieces in 18K white gold and 20 pieces in 18K red gold diamond-set cases, with fully diamond-set dial plates, adorned with fine gemstones.

Engine

MB&F FlyingT movement featuring three-dimensional vertical architecture, automatic winding, conceived and developed in-house.

Central flying 60-second tourbillon.

Power reserve: 100 hours.

Balance frequency: 18,000bph / 2.5Hz.

Three-dimensional sun winding rotor in 18K 5N+ red gold, titanium and platinum.

Number of components: 280.

Number of jewels: 30.

Functions/indications

Hours and minutes displayed on a 50° vertically tilted dial with two serpentine hands.

Two crowns: winding on left and time-setting on right.

Case

Material: 18K white or red gold, set with diamonds.

High domed sapphire crystal on top with anti-reflective coating on both sides, sapphire crystal on back.

Dimensions: 39 x 20mm.

Number of components: 17.

Water resistance: 3ATM / 30m / 90’.

Stones

For the white gold version:

  • Brilliant-cut diamonds on the dial and crowns: ~ 0.24ct
  • Brilliant-cut diamonds on the case and buckle: ~ 2.80cts
  • 3 tsavorites square, pear and round: ~ 1.33cts
  • 1 oval topaz: ~ 0.71ct
  • 1 oval amethyst: ~ 0.4ct
  • 1 round tanzanite: ~ 0.43ct
  • 1 round tourmaline: ~ 0.06ct

For the rose gold version:

  • Brilliant-cut diamonds on the dial and crowns: ~ 0.24ct
  • Brilliant-cut diamonds on the case and buckle: ~ 2.80cts
  • 2 tsavorite square and round: ~ 0.38ct
  • 2 tourmaline oval and round: ~ 0.64ct
  • 1 oval tanzanite: ~ 0.47ct
  • 1 pear amethyst: ~ 0.70ct
  • 1 round rubellite: ~ 0.39ct

Strap & buckle

Alligator leather strap with white or rose gold pin buckle matching the case.

ABOUT BULGARI

Part of the LVMH Group, Bulgari was founded in Rome in 1884 as a jewellery shop. Known as the magnificent Roman jeweller and master of coloured gems, Bulgari has established a worldwide reputation for Italian excellence and enjoys renowned for its exquisite craftsmanship. The company’s international success has evolved into a global and diversified luxury purveyor of products and services, ranging from fine jewels and high end watches to accessories and perfumes, and featuring an unrivalled network of boutiques and hotels in the world’s most exclusive shopping areas.

Demonstrated through its numerous philanthropic partnerships, Bulgari deeply believes in innovating the present for a sustainable future through its commitment to Corporate Social Responsibility and giving back – to nature and to the community

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Ulysse Nardin – Blast Hourstriker

Ulysse Nardin – Blast Hourstriker

Before we wore time, we heard it. Clocks chimed in the heart of every medieval city. Clocks made by brilliant craftsmen who would, through miniaturisation , create domestic clocks, and then hand held timepieces, capable, despite their small size, to strike the passing hours. Inspired by watchmaking’s past and the possibility of moving musical timekeeping into the future, Ulysse Nardin wants you to hear time again, not read it.

It has been several years in the making but Ulysse Nardin has found a new way to make sound Introducing the Blast Hourstriker an innovative new striking watch that breaks barriers in sound technology This art of marking the time with music has always been a part of Ulysse Nardin’s technical arsenal It was revived in the 1980 s, under the impetus of Rolf Schnyder and given a new lease of life in 2019 when the Swiss Manufacture collaborated with French audio technology company Devialet on the next level of watchmaking acoustics, which was launched in the Classico Hourstriker Phantom This year Patrick Pruniaux Ulysse Nardin’s CEO, has again made the choice to make sound central to the brand’s drive for more futuristic ways to reinterpret traditional
watchmaking crafts.

Ordinarily, to generate the sound needed to mark the passing hours, the hammer strikes a wire gong wrapped around the movement to which it is attached The acoustic wave spreads into the middle of the mechanism and is partly absorbed by it In these conditions, the sound heard lacks power and its harmonics are partially muffled by the material of the timepiece
For the Blast Hourstriker Ulysse Nardin’s team of engineers decided to set themselves two challenges


• Make the chiming mechanism visible on the dial side
• Further improve the quality/power output ratio A challenge that was already started with the Classico Hourstriker Phantom watch To achieve these goals, Ulysse Nardin’s engineers and watchmakers developed the UN 621 caliber In order to guarantee optimal precision of Ulysse Nardin’s first in house automatic striking manufacture movement, it is powered by a flying tourbillon one that is equipped with a variable inertia balance wheel, a silicon hairspring, anchor and escape wheel Its contemporary lines have also been made sleeker and stamped with the now iconic X associated with the brand’s latest generation of timepieces The most complex phase of the Blast Hourstriker’s development involved redesigning the entire kinematics of this 330 component striking caliber to allow this highly sophisticated mechanism, which is usually hidden from view, to be seen dial side When the striker is on, the mechanical ballet that makes the watch’s sound is visible on the hour and half hour, but even its occasional activation is just as beautiful By pressing the button located at 10 o’clock, the mechanism, driven by a specially dedicated barrel, is triggered The hour rack and the inertia regulator start to turn the hammers, visible in an opening made at 12 o’clock, hit the gong whose shape has been subtly worked to bypass the cage of the flying tourbillon

An exceptional mechanism requires an exceptional case So Ulysse Nardin decided to encase a movement inspired by the power of nature in a design inspired by a powerful man made machine the stealth airplane To truly allow the sound of the Blast Hourstriker to resonate, the distinctive 45 mm Blast case was given a black DLC titanium middle, capped with 5 N 18 kt rose gold, for improved acoustics To silence this imposing timepiece with the button located at 8 o’clock on the middle must be pressed and then the ‘ or ‘ position at the tip of the function selector hand located at 8 o’clock checked The three straps that come with the Blast Hourstriker allow its different personalities to be explored The black high tech, waterproof velvet option emphasizes its aerodynamism, while the alligator brings its more sophisticated side to the fore In addition, a rubber strap is also available for this model Whatever you choose, remember the Blast Hourstriker is made to be heard not seen.

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Vacheron Constantin – High Watchmaking: Astronomical watches

Vacheron Constantin

High Watchmaking: Astronomical watches

  • Horology stems from the observation and study of the stars dating right back to the earliest ancient civilisations
  • Twenty years after its foundation in 1755, the first watches with astronomical indications appeared at Vacheron Constantin.
  • The Manufacture has developed a rare breed of expertise in Grand Complication watches dedicated to the movement and influence of the moon, stars and planets.

Geneva, November 17th 2021 – Horology, the science of time measurement, was born from the observations of heavenly bodies and natural cycles. The mechanical instruments developed by horologists stem from these observations, reflecting an art that has continued to progress since the late Middle Ages. Founded in 1755, Vacheron Constantin developed a perfect mastery of astronomical indications at a very early stage, progressively enriching it over the two and a half centuries of the Manufacture’s existence. Today, the Maison produces watchmaking masterpieces of great astronomical complexity.

Astronomical watches remind us of the origins of watchmaking. Born of the observation of the great physical laws of Nature, the measurement of time is in fact a material extrapolation of the movement of the stars and cycles. This mechanically translated interpretation has given rise across the ages to timepieces capable of offering a wide variety of functions, and of varying degrees of complexity, linked to the singularities of the Gregorian calendar, to the various temporalities governing our universe, or to the motion of heavenly bodies and their impact on the Earth. Although many of these functions are not of practical use, they nonetheless testify to expertise that is all the rarer in that it lends a cosmological dimension to these watches forming a link between humankind and the universe. From its earliest days, Vacheron Constantin has shown great interest in watches with astronomical functions, including various types of calendar displays and indications of the phases and age of the Moon, often combined with other horological complications. Since the 2000s, this technical mastery has been illustrated in particular through its Les Cabinotiers department, whose astronomical watches are masterpieces of their kind.

Astronomical functions

The astronomical functions of a wristwatch include indications related to the particularities of the Gregorian calendar, as well as a wide variety of displays related to the movement of the stars. In addition to the main functions listed below, the most complex of them may offer a system for predicting lunar and solar eclipses, the position of the stars as seen from the Earth, displays of the ephemerides (solstices, equinoxes, seasons), the signs of the zodiac, a tideograph, sunrise and sunset, the duration of day and night, the annual deviation or angular movement of the Moon, etc. All this bearing in mind that a good number of these functions are valid exclusively for a given location. The most “common” astronomical watches include one or more of the following indications.

  • Calendars

A simple calendar watch is a watch that, in addition to the time, provides calendar information – usually the date – but whose mechanism does not automatically keep step with the irregularity of successive months. When such a calendar also provides indications including the day of the week, phases of the moon and even the year, it is called a complete calendar. This type of complication requires five adjustments per year. Unlike a simple calendar, an annual calendar automatically takes into account the irregularity of 30- or 31-day months, except for February, meaning that manual adjustment is required on March 1st each year. A perpetual calendar, on the other hand, indicates calendar functions such as the date, month and day of the week, taking into account months with 28, 30 or 31 days, as well as leap years.

  • Moon phases

The moon-phase indication is frequently associated with the perpetual calendar. It serves to reproduce the cycle of Earth’s satellite (new Moon, first quarter, full Moon, last quarter) on the watch dial. The phases of the Moon should not be confused with the age of the Moon which indicates the time (in days) elapsed since the last new Moon.

  • Equation of time

The equation of time is defined by the difference between solar time – or true time – and civil time – or mean time. The former is the time as shown on a sundial, while the latter is the time displayed on a watch. The difference between the two ranges from -16 minutes to +14 minutes and occurs during the course of the year, due to the Earth’s elliptical orbit and the tilt of its axis.

  • Sidereal time

The time it takes for the Earth to complete one full spin on its axis (360°) is 23 hours, 56 minutes, 4 seconds, and is called the sidereal day. Because of the Earth’s revolution around the Sun and its rotation on its own axis, the solar day – the time difference between two passages of the Sun through the zenith point (meridian) – lasts a few extra minutes. Using a fixed star in the sky instead of the Sun as a reference point, this sidereal time is used as a basis for astronomical observations.

  • Sky map

The sky chart is a planispherical representation on a disc or dial of the sky at a given location on the globe. This surface is rotated at a rate of one revolution per year – thereby offering a ‘snapshot’ of the sky at a given time – or of one revolution per sidereal day, which provides a view of the sky in real time.

Advanced mechanics

The perpetual calendar is often considered one of horology’s finest gems for its ability to display the exact date for an all but infinite duration (with the exception of secular years not divisible by 400), taking into account the variable length of the months and the leap-year cycle. To accomplish this mechanical feat, the movement must have a “memory” of 1,461 days, equivalent to four years. The essential component of these mechanisms is the month cam on which the different monthly durations are programmed. Equation of time mechanisms are also governed by a cam – which is in this case asymmetrical, performs one revolution in a year and features a shape derived from the analemma.

This results in a one-day discrepancy for this type of mechanism that must be corrected every 2 years and 7 months. Watches with a precision moon-phase display have a wheel with 135 teeth. With this system, the deviation from the lunar cycle is reduced to one day every 122 years. Another astral representation is the rotating sky chart, of which the visible part corresponding to the skyline is delimited by an ellipse, and which generally makes one revolution in one day in order to offer a vision of the sky in real time.

This rotation is calculated according to sidereal time, which is 3 minutes and 56 seconds shorter than the average day. Technically, the simplest solution consists of integrating two kinetic chains in the movement, from the barrel to the regulating organ, the first beating at the mean solar time rate of one revolution in 24 hours and the second at the slightly faster sidereal time rate of one revolution in 23 hours, 56 minutes and 4 seconds.

Astronomical paternity

The appearance of megalithism around 5000 BC owes nothing to chance. These thousands of precisely oriented stone monuments – of which one of the best-known is the circle of menhirs at Stonehenge – are regarded as the first astronomical observatories. It was however not until around 4200 BC that these first observations took on a more scientific nature, when the birth of writing played a decisive role by making it possible to record events, perform calculations, establish chronologies and make forecasts. Writing appeared in Mesopotamia, and gradually became established in Egypt in the following century – and then some 2,000 years later in China and the Mayan Empire. Each great civilisation then set about developing its own calendar based on the visible movement of the Sun or the Moon, or both.

It was the Mesopotamians, around 2400 BC, who invented a common unit of measurement for calculating distances and time, which is still the basis of our sexagesimal system of degrees of angle and minutes today. This spatialisation of time was decisive when it came to sequencing it according to the course of the stars. The development of mechanical engineering, which already emerged at the time of Aristotle, was thus able to give shape to the counting of time and its astronomical dimension. As soon as the first clocks appeared in the 13th and 14th centuries, mechanical horologists set out to reproduce on dials the movements of the solar system’s main planets. The pocket watches of the Renaissance were direct heirs to these large astronomical clocks. Well before the invention of the minutes hand, these watches already indicated the time, the date, the days of the week, the months and their duration, the moon phases and the signs of the zodiac. These astronomical watches, which were very popular in the 17th century, are still considered to be models of their kind today.

From that time onwards, ingenious watchmakers redoubled their efforts to make their mechanisms more accurate – resulting in the appearance of minutes and then seconds hands – and more compact. This miniaturisation naturally made it difficult to depict certain astronomical functions, except for the date and its most sophisticated perpetual calendar interpretation, accompanied by a moon-phase display. As of the 19th century, any Grand Complication watch had to incorporate a mechanism capable of following the irregularities of the Gregorian calendar. At that time, some exceptional pocket watches also reproduced celestial mechanics by displaying the equation of time, sunrise and sunset times or sidereal time. These functions can be found in the highly complicated timepieces of the first half of the 20th century. The advent of the wristwatch, however, put a stop to these technical masterpieces – while nonetheless not provoking their complete disappearance. Since the revival of the mechanical watch at the end of the 1980s, the astronomical watch has enjoyed a clear resurgence in interest and currently represents a supreme demonstration of expertise.

 

Vacheron Constantin and calendar watches

The first mention of a pocket watch in Vacheron Constantin’s records dates back to a period prior to 1773, i.e. the early years of the workshop founded by Jean-Marc Vacheron in 1755. A decade later, the range of complications developed under the leadership of Jean-Marc’s son Abraham Vacheron, notably exemplified by the first complete calendar dating from 1785 and appearing on a brass dial with a floral motif. The archives of the Maison accurately retrace this progressive mastery of astronomical complications, beginning in 1829 with the first recorded order for a watch featuring a simple calendar and moon phases, and again in 1884 for a perpetual calendar integrated into a double-sided yellow gold pocket watch now belonging to Vacheron Constantin’s private collection. This achievement marked the beginning of an epic mechanical saga that was to take on greater significance at the turn of the century.

As early as 1900, the company set up a workshop exclusively dedicated to the assembly of watches with complications, and orders poured in for complicated and even very complicated watches. The perpetual calendar was thus combined with other technical feats, as in this 1901 pink gold pocket watch incorporating a minute repeater, chronograph and perpetual calendar with phases and age of the moon. This masterpiece of mechanical artistry typifying Grand Complication watches prefigures the historic golden age of complicated watches at Vacheron Constantin. An era that culminated in the 1920s and 1930s, notably with the astronomical pocket watch made in 1929 for King Fouad I of Egypt. This masterful timepiece combines a split-seconds chronograph, a perpetual calendar, a minute repeater and a Grande and Petite Sonnerie mechanism.

The heyday of the perpetual calendar

Throughout most of the 20th century, Vacheron Constantin remained faithful to its classic and elegant approach to horological complications, including the perpetual calendar in pocket watches until the 1960s. These decades were thus punctuated by a number of exceptional creations, including this gold pocket watch from 1946 with minute repeater, chronograph and perpetual calendar displaying the phases and age of the moon. Elegance was notably expressed by models featuring impressive slimness made possible by their thin movements. In 1955, Vacheron Constantin had already presented its manual-winding Calibre 1003, which was barely 1.64 mm thick, a real feat. Some 12 years later, the company achieved a new feat – this time in the field of self-winding movements – with its Calibre 1120 measuring 2.45 mm thick. It was this specific movement, skeletonised for the occasion, that served as the basis for the first perpetual calendar (Calibre 1120 QP) housed in an ultra-thin wristwatch introduced by Vacheron Constantin in 1983.

While complete calendars, triple calendars with moon phases and retrograde calendar indications are part of the grand traditions of the Maison, the perpetual calendar remains one of its preferred complications, currently interpreted in the Patrimony, Traditionnelle and Overseas collections. This inclination has notably been reflected in a major new model presented in 2019 with the Traditionnelle Twin Beat perpetual calendar . With its two going trains operating at different rhythms, the watch can be slowed down to a “resting position” ensuring at least 65 days of power reserve. In its “classic” version, the perpetual calendar also remains a basic function of grand complication mechanisms, an unchanging tradition at Vacheron Constantin. In recent years, the Manufacture has distinguished itself with timepieces whose complexity has become an art in itself, such as the Tour de l’île with its 16 watchmaking and astronomical complications, produced in 2005 for the 250th anniversary of the Maison. Ten years later, for its 260th anniversary, Vacheron Constantin presented another timepiece destined to make watchmaking history, the Reference 57260 and its 57 complications, making this one-of-a-kind model the most complicated watch in the world.

Astronomy at its peak

At Vacheron Constantin, mastery of astronomical functions is by no means confined to calendar functions. In the world of pocket watches, the Manufacture responded at an early stage to specific requests from customers and collectors who were particularly sensitive to this dimension of watchmaking. In 1890, for example, at the request of a Parisian client, the Manufacture created a watch indicating sidereal time. Some 20 years later, the company archives mention a movement blank designed to power a display of true solar time, associated with a simple calendar as well as sunrise and sunset indications. The year 1919 was also marked by the delivery of a perpetual calendar movement with moon phases, sunrise and sunset and retrograde equation of time, a true mechanical rarity. This tradition of astronomical indications based on the course of the stars – which been put on hold for a time due to the miniaturisation requirements of the wristwatch – has made a major comeback in the Maison’s collections since the powerful late 20th century craze for mechanical watches and has been further strengthened since the creation of the Les Cabinotiers department.

Responsible for special orders and exceptional creations for the Maison in the form of one-of-a-kind timepieces, this department has produced veritable masterpieces in the field of astronomical watches with highly sophisticated complications. Among these is the Celestia Astronomical grand complication 3600 (2017) and its 23 functions inspired by astronomy, including a reading of civil, solar and sidereal time. This same reading is found on the Astronomical striking grand complication – Ode to music (2020) and its 19 essentially astronomical functions coupled with a minute repeater. The theme chosen for the Les Cabinotiers watches introduced in 2021 was Le Temps Céleste (celestial time), masterfully expressed through three exceptional timepieces. Among them are the Armillary perpetual calendar – Planetaria watch, featuring a jumping retrograde perpetual calendar regulated by a double-axis tourbillon and complemented by a 3D depiction of the two hemispheres for the 24-hour and day/night indications. Expressed at this level, astronomical complications are undoubtedly both science and art.

A beautiful tribute

In the 19th century, Vacheron Constantin’s reputation was well established, particularly in the world of accuracy, which earned the company numerous prizes for excellence in chronometry (precision timekeeping) awarded by the Geneva Observatory, among others. The Manufacture’s customers therefore increasingly placed orders for timepieces meeting their needs, which were strictly formulated when it comes to astronomical observations. A letter addressed to Vacheron Constantin on February 24th 1853 by Count Hyppolite Salino, secretary of the Sardinian Legation in Paris, features a request for a thermometer and date watch: “(…) as I intend to use this watch for astronomical observations, I would like it to be a true chronometer, crafted with the perfection that the works emerging from your workshops come so close to attaining”. A glowing tribute to the watchmaking excellence of Vacheron Constantin.

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Watch selection

Double-sided yellow gold pocket watch with 48-month perpetual calendar and moon phases –1884

This is the first recorded Vacheron Constantin pocket watch to incorporate a perpetual calendar and features a double-sided display. The display of time including small seconds appears on the front enamel dial with Roman numerals and external minute-track, while the perpetual calendar is displayed on four counters visible through the transparent caseback. The vertical axis features the date and the day of the week, while the age and phases of the moon appear on the horizontal axis opposite the month display. This subdial divided into four quarters is staggered over 48 months with the leap year indicated by the same hand. This timepiece is all the more remarkable in that it won a First Prize for chronometry at the Geneva Observatory competition.

Grand Complication yellow gold pocket watch with tourbillon, perpetual calendar, moon phases and split-seconds chronograph – 1931

This extremely complicated watch is a collector’s item. A very rare model for its time, it displays a perpetual calendar with the age and phases of the moon, together with a split-seconds chronograph as well as a 32-hour power reserve indication. Regulated by a tourbillon, which can be seen by lifting the cover protecting the caseback, this watch won First Prize in the 1934 Geneva Observatory competition. Produced in 1931, it is a perfect example of the golden age that Vacheron Constantin experienced at that time in the production of pocket watches with multiple complications, perfect readability and infallible chronometry.

King Farouk yellow gold Grand Complication pocket watch – 1934

One of the most complicated watches of its time. This imposing model – measuring 80 millimetres in diameter and which took more than five years to complete – is equipped with 13 hands. Its calibre incorporates 820 components that drive 14 complications. This double going-train watch in 18K yellow gold was presented to King Farouk of Egypt in 1946 and remained in his collection until 1954. It includes a chiming minute repeater and Grande and Petite Sonnerie equipped with three gongs and three hammers, a split-seconds chronograph with a 30-minute counter, a perpetual calendar, an indication of the phases and age of the moon, an alarm clock and two power-reserve indicators.

“Cioccolatone” yellow gold square curved wristwatch with triple calendar and moon phases – 1954

In the 1950s, post-war exuberance led to new forms of design that were both functional and unrestrained. Vacheron Constantin’s response to this new trend took the form of this large, organically square wristwatch with rounded lugs and bezel, as well as a slightly curved case. Nicknamed “Cioccolatone”, this watch has become an iconic symbol of the design typical of that period. Introduced at the beginning of the decade, it has been interpreted through several variations, including this most emblematic Reference 4764 with triple calendar and moon phases.

Ultra-thin platinum wristwatch with perpetual calendar and moon phases – 1988

At the height of the hegemony of quartz watches in the 1980s, Vacheron Constantin took a gamble on the mechanical watch by producing this complication watch, the first perpetual calendar with moon phases on a wristwatch from the Maison, which was also offered in an ultra-thin version. This model played an important role in the renewed interest in high-end watchmaking and its complicated mechanical watches. Presented in 1983, this reference –interpreted through several iterations including a skeleton version – remained in production until 2006. The watch is particularly elegant thanks to its movement measuring barely 4.05 mm thick: the ultra-thin Calibre 1120 QP complete with date module.

Les Cabinotiers Celestia Astronomical Grand Complication 3600 – 2017

The unique double-sided Celestia Astronomical Grand Complication 3600 combines astronomy and the art of watchmaking in a “celestial” white gold composition. The watch incorporates 23 mainly astronomical horological complications appearing on both sides of the case, offering a reading of the time in three different modes – civil, solar and sidereal – each driven by its own gear train. Its new fully integrated calibre has nearly 514 components housed in a thickness of barely 8.7 mm, while six barrels guarantee it a three-week autonomy.

Les Cabinotiers Tourbillon armillary perpetual calendar – Planetaria – 2021

Equipped with the new manual-winding Calibre 1991, the result of four years of development, this one-of-a-kind timepiece features a perpetual calendar with a retrograde display of the date, day and month. It also features a rare 3D depiction representing the Earth’s Northern and Southern hemispheres. The two titanium globes perform a complete rotation in 24 hours complete with a day/night indication. The movement is regulated by a dual-axis tourbillon whose interlocking cages move at a speed of 60 seconds per rotation.

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Patek Philippe – 5905/1A FLYBACK CHRONOGRAPH

Patek Philippe 

5905/1A
FLYBACK CHRONOGRAPH. ANNUAL CALENDAR.

Una versión decididamente deportiva en acero con brazalete integrado y esfera verde sunburst Lanzado como modelo platino en 2015, luego en oro rosa en 2019,
La referencia 5905 combina dos complicaciones prácticas y fáciles de usar: un cronógrafo flyback de cuerda automática y un calendario anual patentado. La Manufactura está reinterpretando el estilo de este modelo tan codiciado al presentar una primera versión en acero, un metal raro en las colecciones de Patek Philippe, con un brazalete integrado de tres eslabones. Este diseño atrevido y casual renueva la forma en que se usa un reloj de complicación Patek Philippe a diario.

La esfera extremadamente rítmica presenta un nuevo y elegante color verde oliva resplandor solar. Garantiza una excelente legibilidad para las funciones adicionales, con una aguja de cronógrafo central, una gran subesfera de 60 minutos a las 6 en punto y tres aperturas de día / fecha / mes dispuestas en un arco para la lectura instantánea de las indicaciones del calendario anual. También hay un indicador discreto de día / noche a las 6 en punto que es útil para garantizar un ajuste de fecha preciso. Visible a través del fondo de caja de zafiro transparente, el calibre CH 28-520 QA 24H permanece fiel a la rueda de pilares tradicional para la transmisión de los comandos del cronógrafo. Sin embargo, en lugar de un embrague horizontal de rueda dentada, tiene un embrague de disco vertical. Esta moderna solución técnica casi no causa desgaste, y el segundero central del cronógrafo también se puede utilizar como una pantalla de segundos permanente (en funcionamiento).

El Calendario Anual patentado toma en cuenta automáticamente los meses de 30 y 31 días, requiriendo solo una corrección por año, el 1 de marzo.

Está equipado con un cierre plegable patentado Patek Philippe asegurado por cuatro cierres independientes. La nueva referencia 5905 / 1A-001 se une a las referencias existentes 5905P-001 en platino con esfera azul y 5905R-001 en oro rosa con esfera marrón.

5905 / 1A-001
Disponible por primera vez en acero, el cronógrafo flyback de cuerda automática Reference 5905 con calendario anual irradia un aspecto decididamente deportivo. La esfera rítmica presenta un elegante e informal color verde oliva “sunburst”. La pulsera integrada se ve reforzada por el contraste de acabados pulidos y satinados. Gracias al embrague de disco vertical, el segundero central del cronógrafo se puede utilizar como una pantalla de segundos permanente (en marcha).