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UNA NUEVA BOUTIQUE, UNA PIEZA EXCLUSIVA: HUBLOT HACE UN DOBLE HOMENAJE A MÉXICO

UNA NUEVA BOUTIQUE, UNA PIEZA EXCLUSIVA: HUBLOT HACE UN DOBLE HOMENAJE A MÉXICO

Desde la Ciudad de México hasta el país en su conjunto, México ha sido desde hace mucho tiempo una de las estrellas más brillantes de la galaxia Hublot, con un cariño y entusiasmo que no han mostrado signos de decaer durante los 40 años de existencia de la marca.

Para conmemorar esta unión tan preciada, Hublot decidió lanzar dos iniciativas simultáneas en honor a México. La primera es una celebración más profunda de sus lazos: la manufactura ha anunciado la apertura de su primera boutique oficial en Cancún. Se une a la red existente de tres boutiques del país, con la última incorporación ubicada en un lugar verdaderamente icónico en el extremo oriental de México. Esta ciudad cosmopolita es un pedazo de paraíso, su ubicación geográfica refleja su espíritu de mirar hacia el exterior, situada a pocas millas náuticas de La Habana, Miami y las Islas Caimán, donde las aguas turquesas del Golfo de México se encuentran con el Mar Caribe.

Para celebrar estos lazos, Hublot revelará una creación completamente nueva que transmitirá la relación muy especial entre Hublot y México: el Hublot Classic Fusion “Maya”, una pieza numerada exclusiva especialmente diseñada para la ocasión y lanzada como una serie de solo 25 piezas.

Un tributo vibrante a la cultura maya, el centro de la pieza representa sus ciclos tradicionales de calendario. Este sistema extremadamente sofisticado demuestra el avance de una civilización cuyas raíces se remontan a tiempos prehistóricos y que logró un progreso significativo en beneficio de la humanidad en su conjunto en los campos de la escritura, el arte, la arquitectura, la agricultura, las matemáticas y la astronomía.

Lo mismo ocurre con el calendario Haab. Al dividir el año en ciclos, ayudó a respaldar el desarrollo de las matemáticas y la astronomía. El círculo de glifos en el medio de la esfera comprende los 19 meses del Haab. Los primeros 18 meses tienen 20 días cada uno y son seguidos por un período final corto de solo 5 días para dar un total de 365 días.

En el centro, la carga transportada representa el último de estos 20 días, ajaw, que significa “señor” o “regla”. Es uno de los principales glifos utilizados en el arte maya clásico. En este contexto, el “día” transportado representa el comienzo de todo el año calendario, lo que convierte al portador de la carga en un “portador del año”.

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Richard Mille RM 40-01 – Tourbillon automático McLaren Speedtail

Richard Mille RM 40-01 – Tourbillon automático McLaren Speedtail

Inspirado en la forma de una gota —la forma aerodinámicamente más eficiente de la naturaleza—, el Speedtail, la gran apoteosis del hipercoche aerodinámico, es un gran turismo de tres plazas y el tercer coche integrante de la gama Ultimate de McLaren.

Equipado con un motor híbrido de 1070 caballos de potencia, el Speedtail es capaz de recorrer 112 metros por segundo circulando a una velocidad punta de 402 km/h (250 mph), lo que lo convierte en el coche de carretera McLaren más rápido de la historia. La incesante búsqueda de la eficiencia aerodinámica por parte de McLaren fue el punto de partida del diseño del RM 40-01 Tourbillon Automático McLaren Speedtail.

«Existen muchas similitudes en la forma en la que Richard Mille y McLaren abordan los retos comunes de diseño e ingeniería, como reducir el peso, disminuir el impacto vibratorio y minimizar la resistencia», afirma Rob Melville, director de Diseño de McLaren Automotive, que asegura que el RM 40-01 es la prueba de que las dos marcas son estupendas colaboradoras. «En lo que respecta al RM 40-01, hemos aportado bastantes ideas compartiendo las características más destacadas del coche y la filosofía detrás del mismo. Con el Speedtail nos propusimos crear un coche en el que la calidad artística quedara patente. Indudablemente, este planteamiento se transfirió al reloj, que toma prestados del Speedtail numerosos detalles de acabado, materiales y su diseño estudiado», añade.

RM 40-01 Tourbillon automático McLaren Speedtail

UN MOVIMIENTO A MEDIDA SIN PRECEDENTES

A pesar de la extraordinaria anatomía de la caja, Salvador Arbona, director técnico de Movimientos de Richard Mille, logró crear un «motor» relojero que llena a la perfección todo el espacio disponible y añade un nivel extraordinario de sofisticación mecánica que convierte al RM 40-01 en un compañero oportunamente a la altura del Speedtail.

En los componentes esenciales, como los puentes, los tornillos de los puentes, la platina y el núcleo del rotor, se ha empleado titanio grado 5. El calibre CRMT4 que impulsa el RM 40-01 presenta la primera indicación de reserva de marcha del mecanismo realizada en interno, así como las complicaciones de selector de funciones y fecha de gran tamaño. Todas ellas son primicias en un tourbillon interno de Richard Mille.

La arquitectura totalmente inédita del movimiento exigió una considerable labor de desarrollo de 8600 horas, en las que la mayor parte del tiempo se destinó a concretar el altísimo nivel de detalle. La complejidad de los componentes, la infinidad de detalles y, sobre todo, la atención prestada a los acabados han valido al RM 40-01 un puesto indiscutible en el sumun de la relojería suiza.

CALIBRE CRMT4

Movimiento tourbillon automático con horas, minutos, rotor de geometría variable, fecha de gran tamaño, indicador de reserva de marcha y selector de funciones.

Edición limitada de 106 unidades.

RESERVA DE MARCHA

Aproximadamente 50 horas (± 10%), indicador situado a las 9 h accionado por un diferencial planetario.

PLATINA Y PUENTES DE TITANIO GRADO 5

El titanio grado 5 microgranallado con tratamiento de electroplasma confiere gran solidez a la platina y los puentes y un acabado perfectamente plano a las superficies, cualidades esenciales para el perfecto funcionamiento del tren de engranajes.

La platina esqueletizada y los puentes han sido sometidos a largas y exigentes pruebas para comprobar su perfecta capacidad de resistencia.

Hublot and Takashi Murakami
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FUSIÓN CLASSIC TAKASHI MURAKAMI SAPPHIRE RAINBOW

FUSION CLASSIC TAKASHI MURAKAMI SAPPHIRE RAINBOW

Hublot y Takashi Murakami presentan el segundo reloj de su colaboración: el Classic Fusion Takashi Murakami Sapphire Rainbow. Este nuevo reloj toma la flor sonriente, el tema icónico de la obra del artista japonés, y la transforma en un torbellino de transparencia y color. ¡Hublot ama el arte!

Después de lanzar el primer reloj a principios de año, un reloj All Black, que se convirtió instantáneamente en un artículo de colección, Hublot y Takashi Murakami continúan transponiendo el mundo Kawaii del artista japonés a la relojería, al presentar el reloj Classic Fusion Takashi Murakami Sapphire Rainbow. . Esta nueva pieza, todavía basada en la flor sonriente, el tema icónico de la obra de Murakami, ha pasado del negro al color con efectos transparentes.

Los técnicos de los talleres de Hublot han creado un escenario único con esta nueva obra de arte, un fondo transparente a través del cual podemos contemplar tanto la obra del artista como la intrincada mecánica de los relojeros de Nyon. Reutilizando los rasgos característicos del modelo Classic Fusion, esta caja de 45 mm de diámetro está tallada en cristal de zafiro, una hazaña tecnológica iniciada por Hublot.

La flor sonriente presenta una sonrisa traviesa en una cara tridimensional que literalmente emerge de la esfera del reloj y se extiende más allá del cristal de zafiro. 12 pétalos de colores giran alrededor de esta cara, y su efecto policromático se logra mediante el montaje de 487 piedras que representan los colores del arco iris: rubíes, zafiros rosas, amatistas, zafiros azules, tsavoritas, zafiros amarillos y naranjas. Gracias a un ingenioso sistema de cojinetes de bolas especialmente desarrollado por los ingenieros de Hublot, los pétalos comienzan a girar bajo el cristal del reloj y dan vida a la flor sonriente de Takashi Murakami.

En el corazón palpitante del reloj, los relojeros de Nyon han colocado aquí el calibre HUB1214 de la compañía, sin la función de cronómetro. Este movimiento tiene una reserva de marcha de 72 horas.

Dirigido a los conocedores del arte contemporáneo, el reloj Classic Fusion Takashi Murakami Sapphire Rainbow está disponible en una edición limitada de 100 piezas numeradas.

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CHOPARD Alpine Eagle Frozen – Un reloj de alta relojería surgido de los glaciares

CHOPARD Alpine Eagle Frozen

Un reloj de alta relojería surgido de los glaciares

Inspirada por la gracia del águila y los Alpes, la colección sport-chic de Chopard acoge dos nuevas versiones del Alpine Eagle Frozen. Realizados en oro ético de 18 quilates blanco o rosa, su caja de 41mm de diámetro, su bisel y su correa integrada están completamente engastados con diamantes. Sin renunciar en absoluto al saber hacer técnico, estas versiones joyeras del reloj de las «águilas contemporáneas» están equipadas con el movimiento automático Chopard 01.03-C con 60 horas de reserva de la marcha. Gracias a la riqueza de sus diamantes, que recuerdan a los delicados copos de escarcha que cubren los glaciares de los Alpes, brillan con un aura ética y responsable.

El dominio interno del arte del engaste 

Dos relojes Alpine Eagle Frozen se incorporan a la colección sport-chic de Chopard expresando su majestuosidad a través de la riqueza de sus diamantes sublimados por el arte del engaste. Un saber hacer que mantienen los Artesanos de la Casa, que con enorme paciencia han engastado íntegramente en oro ético de 18 quilates un pavé formado por 872 diamantes (un total de 12,27 quilates) en la caja, el bisel, la esfera y, por último, en cada uno de los eslabones de la correa. Un reto que requiere un mínimo de 20 horas de un minucioso trabajo para cada uno de los ejemplares.

Así, estos dos nuevos modelos engastados, de un diámetro de 41mm (el formato Large) completan la oferta de la colección Alpine Eagle que se presentó en 2019 y que ya cuenta con numerosas versiones en tamaño Small (36mm), Large (41mm) y Extra-Large con  movimiento cronógrafo (44mm), de Lucent Steel A223 y oro ético o bien de oro ético, así como un modelo exclusivo de titanio equipado con un movimiento de alta frecuencia. Hasta ahora la versión Alpine Eagle Frozen estaba únicamente formada por una referencia de oro ético blanco engastado y de tamaño Small.

Chopard reafirma a través del brillo de las piedras preciosas la profundidad de la inspiración que la colección ha encontrado en la naturaleza, a la que se rinde homenaje como el mayor de los arquitectos. Aquí, los glaciares y las nieves eternas de las cumbres alpinas, luminosos e inmaculados, son los que han guiado el diseño: «Alpine Eagle Frozen está directamente inspirado en los glaciares alpinos y en los rayos de sol que en ellos se reflejan con todo su resplandor. Cada uno de los diamantes utilizados en este reloj brilla como si fuera un copo de nieve posado en la cima de las montañas», explica Karl-Friedrich Scheufele, copresidente de Chopard y también el creador de la colección junto a su hijo y su padre.

En el Alpine Eagle Frozen se encuentran todos los elementos emblemáticos del diseño puro y personal de la colección: los ocho tornillos indexados que permiten fijar el bisel sobre una caja redonda de flancos estilizados, la correa integrada y, además, la rosa de los vientos – que desde la Antigüedad indica el camino a los aventureros – grabada sobre la corona de oro. En la esfera la legibilidad de las horas y los minutos también está garantizada, tanto de día como de noche, por unas agujas facetadas y unos números romanos rodiados y cubiertos de SuperLuminova® Grade X1.

La garantía de fiabilidad

Tanto en la ciudad como en la montaña, los relojes Alpine Eagle Frozen pueden contar con la fiabilidad de un movimiento automático visible al dorso del reloj a través de un cristal de zafiro. El Chopard 01.03-C está minuciosamente realizado por los Artesanos de la Casa a partir de 182 componentes. Es objeto de un cuaderno de cargas estricto que garantiza una reserva de la marcha de 60 horas y una gran fiabilidad.

La unión entre la ética y la estética

En Chopard el compromiso con la ética es una realidad que necesariamente se transmite a través de las creaciones que se llevan a cabo en sus talleres. Como todos los relojes y las joyas de oro que llevan el emblema de la Casa desde julio de 2018, los relojes Alpine Eagle Frozen están completamente realizados a partir de oro ético. Por su parte, los diamantes que se han empleado en su adorno proceden de proveedores certificados por el Consejo de Joyería Responsable (RJC). Como prueba de que siempre es posible orquestar el encuentro entre la ética y la estética, la familia Scheufele, que dirige Chopard de generación en generación, se esfuerza con convicción en crear unos objetos que sean tan bellos por dentro como por fuera.

Detalles Técnicos

Alpine Eagle Frozen

De oro ético blanco o rosa de 18 quilates completamente engastado con diamantes  

Caja:

Oro ético blanco o rosa de 18 quilates engastado con 108 diamantes (2,02 quilates)

Diámetro total                                                                      41 mm

Grosor                                                                                  9,7 mm

Sumergible a                                                                       100 metros

Corona de oro ético blanco o rosa de 18 quilates

con rosa de los vientos                                                     7 mm

Carrura engastada

Bisel de oro ético blanco o rosa de 18 quilates engastado con 36 diamantes talla trapecio (2,85 quilates) con ocho tornillos de fijación indexados

Cristal de zafiro anti reflectante

Fondo abierto

Movimiento:

Movimiento mecánico de carga automática                  Chopard 01.03-C

Número de componentes                                                 182

Diámetro                                                                              28,80 mm

Grosor                                                                                   4,95 mm

Número de piedras                                                            31

Frecuencia                                                                          28 800 A/h (4 Hz)

Reserva de la marcha                                                       60 horas

Esfera y agujas:

Esfera de oro ético blanco o rosa de 18 quilates engastada con 236 diamantes (1,79 quilates)

Índices y números en aplicación, rodiados o dorados, cubiertos de Super-LumiNova® Grade X1

Agujas dauphines fusées para las horas y los minutos, rodiadas o doradas, cubiertas de Super-LumiNova® Grade X1

Funciones:

Horas, minutos

Correa y hebilla:

Correa de oro ético blanco o rosa de 18 quilates, en disminución, engastada con 492 diamantes (5,61 quilates)

Hebilla desplegable triple de oro ético blanco o rosa de 18 quilates

 

Ref. 295363-1001 – de oro ético blanco de 18 quilates engastado con diamantes

Ref. 295363-5005 – de oro ético rosa de 18 quilates engastado con diamantes

Excalibur Gully Monotourbillon
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Roger Dubuis’ DNA – EXCALIBUR GULLY MONOTOURBILLON

Roger Dubuis’ DNA – EXCALIBUR GULLY MONOTOURBILLON

Buscar inspiración en los lugares más inesperados está en el ADN de Roger Dubuis. Esto incluye unirse con artistas de la cultura urbana de fama mundial que comparten sus valores comunes para romper las reglas, mostrar una experiencia radical y obsesionarse diariamente con el diseño del futuro. Continuando con un viaje para crear obras maestras que rompen fronteras en el mundo de la hiperhorología, Roger Dubuis se enorgullece de presentar el segundo de sus relojes URBAN ART TRIBE con el Excalibur Gully Monotourbillon.

Gully, el grafiti francés convertido en estudio, sigue el camino iniciado por Dr. Woo después de que se le concediera acceso a la sala más importante de Roger Dubuis: la propia manufactura. Asumiendo el mismo desafío creativo para reinterpretar la firma astral del icónico Excalibur Monotourbillon, presenta su visión de la estrella uniéndola con su colorido mundo de graffiti.

UNIENDO DOS MUNDOS

Extravagante, decidido y perturbador, Gully es tan atrevido y brillante en sus ideas como Roger Dubuis. Después de haberse hecho un nombre pintando por toda Francia en los años noventa y noventa, dejó las calles para mantener su anonimato. Ahora trabaja en un estudio y exhibe su trabajo en galerías respetadas. Maestro de las apropiaciones, el arte de Gully combina todos los movimientos, desde el hiperrealismo al pop art, pasando por el surrealismo y el cubismo, para crear obras maestras graciosas y narrativas que viajan por la historia del arte como si fueran vistas a través de los ojos de un niño. Hablando de su oficio, Gully dice: “Unir mundos diferentes es mi marca registrada. Este proyecto tiene ese espíritu en su esencia, lo que lo convierte en una colaboración obvia para ambos”.

Roger Dubuis, que nunca se alejó de un desafío, tomó la decisión de remodelar y remodelar su propia obra de arte, el Excalibur Monotourbillon, a principios de este año. Gracias a la habilidad y el ingenio excepcionales de sus relojeros, se crearon las condiciones perfectas para la colaboración de URBAN ART TRIBE. El uso de líneas de corte limpias tanto en la caja como en el movimiento, así como los materiales modernos y técnicos, no solo eleva el reloj a un estándar aún más alto, sino que también lo convierte en un lienzo emocionante para la creatividad. Al proporcionar este espacio puro y versátil, se convierte en el patio de recreo en el que Gully se expresa.

UNA OBRA MAESTRA REMASTERIZADA

Gully une dos mundos en una nueva obra maestra singular al combinar la alta experiencia en relojería de la Maison con su divertido estilo artístico. Apropiando conscientemente la firma astral y fusionándola con su graffiti, la estrella se eleva a nuevas alturas por su estilo. Como un guiño a sus primeras obras callejeras, la etiqueta con letras de Gully utiliza la famosa técnica de una sola línea. Comenzando desde el centro del reloj, su mano se mueve directamente hacia las 11 en punto, dibujando el borrador preliminar de una G. La línea luego se dirige hacia las 3 en punto, pero cambia de dirección a la mitad para diseñar parcialmente una Y. Finalmente, la línea llega a las 9, luego a las 12, 6 y 3, antes de moverse hacia el centro del tourbillon y cruzar a las 4 en punto. Volviendo la línea al centro, queda claro que se han dibujado dos L. Termina la carrera dibujando una U parcialmente alrededor del tourbillon. Observe con atención las letras que nacen de este movimiento continuo, ya que el artista no solo reinterpreta la estrella de Roger Dubuis, sino que también firma la esfera. Mire más de cerca y se verá que se han creado dos nuevas estrellas, levitando en armonía paralela en la parte superior izquierda e inferior derecha de la esfera. De una sola línea a una obra maestra singular.

Inspirándose en la pintura en aerosol utilizada en el arte urbano, los relojeros de la Maison llenaron las letras con laca de colores luminiscentes, mientras que los marcadores de hora y las manecillas se llenaron de Super-Luminova ™ *. Los tonos modernos y brillantes recuerdan el universo del artista, al tiempo que crean una armonía estética y un Acabado único. Imbuido con una proeza técnica adicional, el Excalibur Gully Monotourbillon brilla bajo la luz ultravioleta mientras la obsesión de la Maison por la luminiscencia se refleja.

Gully agrega: “Colaborar con artesanos expertos en industrias con las que no estoy familiarizado me ayuda a crecer en mi comprensión del mundo y del arte en sí. Juntos hemos creado algo singular, completamente nuevo e inimitable “.

El talento técnico de los relojeros es aún más evidente en el calibre RD512SQ en sí. Al reducir el peso del tourbillon, la reserva de marcha se optimiza radicalmente a 72 horas, lo que brinda la opción de dejar el reloj sin usar durante los fines de semana. Además, para sellar con una firma muy exigente en alta relojería, el Poinçon de Genève, se requiere la decoración manual de todos los componentes, así como decoraciones inesperadas y antinómicas, como superficies superiores pulidas con chorro de arena y ángulos pulidos. Subrayado por la rareza y limitado a solo ocho piezas, el Excalibur Gully Monotourbillon está alojado en una caja de titanio DLC gris oscuro de 42 mm y montado en una correa de piel de becerro negra, intercambiable con un sistema de liberación rápida para máxima comodidad y flexibilidad.

Junto a sus amigos, la Maison muestra lo que sucede cuando se rechazan las reglas y se desata la creatividad. Al reunir a un artista visionario con relojeros increíbles, Roger Dubuis demuestra una vez más que es sin duda la forma más emocionante de experimentar la hiperhorología.

SIN REGLAS. NUESTRO JUEGO.

* Roger Dubuis no es propietario de la marca comercial Super Luminova ™

PATEK PHILIPPE X TIFFANY & CO. NAUTILUS WATCH
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Phillips is honored to be offering the only publicly available watch from Patek Philippe & Tiffany Blue® Nautilus watch

PATEK PHILIPPE X TIFFANY & CO. NAUTILUS WATCH

Patek Philippe Ref. 5711/1A-018

An historic, highly important, and brand-new stainless steel wristwatch with “Tiffany Blue” lacquer dial, date and bracelet, with certificate of origin and presentation box, with proceeds benefitting The Nature Conservancy.

PATEK PHILIPPE X TIFFANY & CO. NAUTILUS WATCH

PATEK PHILIPPE X TIFFANY & CO. NAUTILUS WATCH

2021 40mm Diameter Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed

Estimate In Excess of $50,000

  • Manufacturer: Patek Philippe
    Year: 2021
    Reference No: 5711/1A-018
    Movement No: 7’441’868
    Case No: 6’497’092
    Model Name: Nautilus
    Material: Stainless steel
    Calibre: Automatic, cal. 26-330 S C, 30 jewels
    Bracelet/Strap: Stainless steel Patek Philippe bracelet, max overall length 190mm
    Clasp/Buckle: Stainless steel Patek Philippe deployant clasp
    Dimensions: 40mm Diameter
    Signed: Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed
    Accessories: Accompanied by a dated (December 11) Patek Philippe Certificate of Origin from Tiffany & Co. in New York, fitted presentation box, leather envelope, and product literature.

Catalogue Essay

Phillips is extremely honored and thrilled to present the very first Patek Philippe Nautilus ref. 5711/1A-018 with a stunning, Tiffany Blue® lacquer dial. It is, without a doubt, amongst the most exciting, exclusive, and coveted examples of a Nautilus ever offered.

Announced to the public just days ago, this limited series Nautilus celebrates the 170-year alliance between Patek Philippe and Tiffany & Co. that remains one of the longest and most enduring relationships in all of watchmaking. A total of 170 timepieces will be produced and available exclusively through Tiffany locations in New York, Beverly Hills, and San Francisco – with the exception of this very watch. The present lot is therefore the first timepiece to be sold, and will be available for immediate delivery to the winning bidder.

The Nautilus reference 5711 is the modern iteration of the first luxury sports wristwatch by Patek Philippe, first launched in 1976 as the reference 3700. Premiering in 2006, the reference 5711 updated the Nautilus for modern times with new innovations, such as an exhibition caseback, and an in-house, self-winding movement with center seconds.

Selected by Tiffany’s founder, Charles Lewis Tiffany for the cover of its annual Blue Book published beginning in 1845, the dial’s “Tiffany Blue” color is immediately recognizable for its distinctive shade and vibrancy. Tiffany Blue is now registered as a color trademark by Tiffany & Co., standardized as a private custom color by Pantone as “1837 Blue” – with the number marking the year of Tiffany’s founding. Not only featuring a Tiffany Blue-colored dial for the first time ever, the dial is also double stamped with the exclusive “Tiffany & Co.” signature at 6 o’clock paired with the Patek Philippe logo at 12 o’clock – both in black print. The luminous, baton hour markers and hands are in blackened 18K white gold, perfectly matching the printing, while providing outstanding legibility against the dial’s light blue lacquered surface.

PATEK PHILIPPE X TIFFANY & CO. NAUTILUS WATCH

PATEK PHILIPPE X TIFFANY & CO. NAUTILUS WATCH

Soon to be retired in 2022, this last version of the reference 5711 is fitted with the self-winding caliber 26-330 S C. Featuring a stop-seconds mechanism permitting time to be set with one-second accuracy, this state-of-the-art movement is visible through a sapphire-crystal caseback, inscribed “170th Anniversary 1851-2021 Tiffany & Co. – Patek Philippe”.

Accordingly, the watch pays tribute to the historic, 170-year shared vision and relationship that links Patek Philippe with the United States. Soon after Patek Philippe (1839) and Tiffany & Co. (1837) were founded, in 1851, the two companies forged an agreement that made Tiffany & Co. the first official partner for Patek Philippe timepieces in the U.S. In 1876, the two companies signed a new agreement appointing Tiffany & Co. as the general representative for the U.S. “who safeguards the interests of Patek Philippe & Cie. as if they
were its own interests”. At the same time, Patek Phillipe pledged to safeguard Tiffany & Co.’s interests as evidenced by a large sign “Agents for Tiffany & Co., New York” at Patek Philippe’s historic headquarters in Geneva. On the premises of the same Patek Philippe Salons in Geneva, there is further proof of this enduring relationship: a large steel vault formerly owned by Tiffany & Co. and decorated by an American eagle sporting two flags.

During the early 1900s, Tiffany & Co. supported key relationships between Patek Philippe and major American collectors, including Henry Graves Junior, for whom the manufacture crafted an extensive range of complicated watches. In the 21st century, Patek Philippe created several limited editions for Tiffany & Co., many of which commemorate important dates and featuring double-stamped dials for both brands, including the ref. 5150 Annual Calendar launched in 2001, the ref. 4987 Gondolo launched in 2009, and the ref. 5396G-012 in 2012. This last reference commemorated the fifth anniversary of the Patek Philippe Boutique at Tiffany & Co, which opened in 2008 and was the manufacture’s first boutique in the U.S.

Today, Tiffany & Co. remains the world’s only retailer whose name appears on a Patek Philippe dial, making any Tiffany-signed timepiece extremely sought after. Throughout the 19th, 20th, and 21st centuries, much has changed, but the relationship between Tiffany & Co. and Patek Philippe has only grown. The present lot, offered in factory new condition, is a rare and stunning limited series Nautilus exemplifying the strength of their long-lasting partnership, and is certain to delight any watch enthusiast.

One hundred percent of proceeds from the sale of this watch will benefit The Nature Conservancy (TNC). Founded in the U.S. in 1951, TNC is a global environmental nonprofit working to create a world where people and nature can thrive. Its mission is to conserve the lands and waters on which all life depends and shape a brighter future for people and our planet. To date, TNC has protected more than 119 million acres of land and 5000 river miles worldwide, with the past support of Tiffany & Co. and The Tiffany & Co. Foundation. With conservation programs in more than 70 countries around the world, their programs are dedicated to food and water sustainability, protecting land and water, deploying solutions for climate change, and building healthy cities.

Artist Biography

Patek Philippe

Since its founding in 1839, this famous Geneva-based firm has been surprising its clientele with superbly crafted timepieces fitted with watchmaking’s most prestigious complications. Traditional and conservative designs are found across Patek Philippe’s watches made throughout their history — the utmost in understated elegance.

Well-known for the Graves Supercomplication — a highly complicated pocket watch that was the world’s most complicated watch for 50 years — this family-owned brand has earned a reputation of excellence around the world. Patek’s complicated vintage watches hold the highest number of world records for results achieved at auction compared with any other brand. For collectors, key models include the reference 1518, the world’s first serially produced perpetual calendar chronograph, and its successor, the reference 2499. Other famous models include perpetual calendars such as the ref. 1526, ref. 3448 and 3450, chronographs such as the reference 130, 530 and 1463, as well as reference 1436 and 1563 split seconds chronographs. Patek is also well-known for their classically styled, time-only “Calatrava” dress watches, and the “Nautilus,” an iconic luxury sports watch first introduced in 1976 as the reference 3700 that is still in production today.

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Vacheron Constantin – Traditionnelle Tourbillon China Limited Edition

Vacheron Constantin – Traditionnelle Tourbillon China Limited Edition

  • Inspirado en la cultura china del jade, el modelo de tourbillon Traditionnelle está dedicado al mercado chino, numerado y grabado en edición limitada de 30 piezas.
  • Una edición limitada completamente vestida de Imperial Green, un color que representa el más puro y más alto grado de jadeíta verde.
  • Con el movimiento mecánico de cuerda automática ultrafino, calibre 2160/1.
Traditionnelle Tourbillon China Limited Edition

Traditionnelle Tourbillon China Limited Edition

Ginebra, 29 de noviembre de 2021 – El fabricante suizo de alta relojería Vacheron Constantin presenta un reloj de edición limitada de alta complicación, exclusivo para el mercado chino.

Un caballero de jade

“Un caballero de jade” es una frase conocida desde la antigua China para describir a un hombre de carácter noble. Los chinos creen que un verdadero caballero es elegante y digno al igual que el Jade, lo que inspira la creación del primer reloj de pulsera de alta complicación especialmente diseñado para el mercado chino. Considerado como un espejo de la civilización china, Jade ha sido un tesoro de la tradición china durante miles de años. Esta piedra preciosa ha sido un símbolo de alta moralidad a lo largo de la historia de China.

“Verde imperial”

El color verde se describe en la poesía china como suave, relajante y lleno de vigor y energía. Vivir en un entorno verde o agregar toques de verde a su entorno puede traer sorprendentemente sofisticación, tranquilidad y vitalidad a la vida.

El conocido Dragón de Jade Hongshan (Verde) del Período Neolítico, la talla de dragón de jade más antigua conocida en China, define la naturaleza imperial de las tallas de jade verde. En los tiempos modernos, la jadeíta, una forma más dura de jade conocida por los chinos, es muy apreciada por su color suave, translúcido, lujoso, pero no exagerado.

La calidad de un jade está determinada en gran medida por la pureza de su color. El verde imperial, el color con el que se vistió el primer reloj de pulsera de edición limitada de China de alta complicación de Vacheron Constantin, es conocido por representar el tono más puro y sofisticado de la jadeíta verde, y tiene una fuerte audacia sin dejar de ser discreto y cálido.

!!! No information available !!!

Traditionnelle Tourbillon China Limited Edition

Este reloj tourbillon Traditionnelle presenta una elegante caja de 41 mm de diámetro en oro rosa de 18 quilates 5N que alberga un movimiento automático desarrollado por Vacheron Constantin.

Además del refinamiento de su carro de tourbillon calado en forma de cruz de Malta, el emblema de la Manufactura y completamente biselado y acabado a mano, el Calibre 2160 se distingue por su increíble delgadez: este movimiento ultradelgado de 188 partes dotado de un diámetro aproximado de 80 -Horas de reserva de marcha mide solo 5,65 mm de grosor. Su frecuencia relativamente tranquila (2,5 Hz), junto con su peso oscilante periférico pulido con chorro de arena de oro de 22 quilates, brindan la oportunidad de admirar el ritmo constante de su mecanismo y el nivel excepcional del acabado tradicional de Côtes de Genève visible a través del fondo de caja de cristal de zafiro.

El nuevo reloj Traditionnelle tourbillon China Limited Edition muestra las horas y los minutos con agujas centrales, mientras que el segundero pequeño aparece a las 6 en punto en el tourbillon, enmarcado por una esfera de tono verde imperial adornada con marcadores de hora dorados y Dauphine bifacético. -tipo manos.

Como dice un viejo refrán chino, como el Jade, aquellos que logran grandes cosas son modestos en cuanto a sus capacidades. Como epítome de resplandor, proporciones equilibradas y detalles sutiles, el nuevo Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Tourbillon China Limited Edition honra e interpreta a un caballero de jade.

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Resumen

El refinamiento técnico se une a la elegancia estética en este modelo imbuido de una masculinidad exquisita. Representa el epítome de la luminosidad, las proporciones equilibradas y los detalles sutiles. Fiel a los orígenes de Vacheron Constantin y dedicado a los clientes chinos enamorados de relojes bellamente elaborados que son a la vez discretos y distinguidos. Emitido en una serie limitada de 30 piezas exclusivamente para China continental, reafirma el estilo en los acordes tonos de verde: desde la elegante esfera con acabado en tono verde imperial con acabado sunburst hasta la correa de piel de aligátor Mississippiensis con hebilla de oro rosa de 18 quilates 5N. Impulsado por el calibre 2160/1 de cuerda automática, este reloj tourbillon Traditionnelle muestra las horas y los minutos con agujas centrales, mientras que el segundero pequeño aparece a las 6 en punto en el tourbillon.

 

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DATOS TÉCNICOS

Reference 6000T/000R-B972

Calibre
2160/1
Desarrollado y fabricado por Vacheron Constantin
Rotor periférico mecánico, de cuerda automática
31 mm (13½ “”) de diámetro, 5,65 mm de grosor
Aproximadamente 80 horas de reserva de marcha
2,5 Hz (18.000 vibraciones / hora)
188 componentes
30 joyas
Reloj certificado Hallmark of Geneva

Indicaciones
Horas, minutos, segundero pequeño en carruaje tourbillon
Tourbillon

Caso
Oro rosa de 18 quilates 5N
41 mm de diámetro, 10,4 mm de espesor
Fondo de caja de cristal de zafiro transparente
Resistencia al agua probada a una presión de 3 bar (aprox.30 metros)

Marcar
Imperial Green, acabado sunburst
Marcadores de hora aplicados en rosa 18K 5N y cruz de Malta

Correa
Piel de aligátor Imperial Green Mississippiensis con capa interna de cocodrilo, cosida a mano, acabado en silla de montar, escamas cuadradas grandes

Corchete
Hebilla desplegable de oro rosa de 18 quilates 5N
Media cruz de Malta pulida

Edición limitada de 30 piezas, numeradas individualmente.

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Ulysse Nardin – Blast Hourstriker

Ulysse Nardin – Blast Hourstriker

Before we wore time, we heard it. Clocks chimed in the heart of every medieval city. Clocks made by brilliant craftsmen who would, through miniaturisation , create domestic clocks, and then hand held timepieces, capable, despite their small size, to strike the passing hours. Inspired by watchmaking’s past and the possibility of moving musical timekeeping into the future, Ulysse Nardin wants you to hear time again, not read it.

It has been several years in the making but Ulysse Nardin has found a new way to make sound Introducing the Blast Hourstriker an innovative new striking watch that breaks barriers in sound technology This art of marking the time with music has always been a part of Ulysse Nardin’s technical arsenal It was revived in the 1980 s, under the impetus of Rolf Schnyder and given a new lease of life in 2019 when the Swiss Manufacture collaborated with French audio technology company Devialet on the next level of watchmaking acoustics, which was launched in the Classico Hourstriker Phantom This year Patrick Pruniaux Ulysse Nardin’s CEO, has again made the choice to make sound central to the brand’s drive for more futuristic ways to reinterpret traditional
watchmaking crafts.

Ordinarily, to generate the sound needed to mark the passing hours, the hammer strikes a wire gong wrapped around the movement to which it is attached The acoustic wave spreads into the middle of the mechanism and is partly absorbed by it In these conditions, the sound heard lacks power and its harmonics are partially muffled by the material of the timepiece
For the Blast Hourstriker Ulysse Nardin’s team of engineers decided to set themselves two challenges


• Make the chiming mechanism visible on the dial side
• Further improve the quality/power output ratio A challenge that was already started with the Classico Hourstriker Phantom watch To achieve these goals, Ulysse Nardin’s engineers and watchmakers developed the UN 621 caliber In order to guarantee optimal precision of Ulysse Nardin’s first in house automatic striking manufacture movement, it is powered by a flying tourbillon one that is equipped with a variable inertia balance wheel, a silicon hairspring, anchor and escape wheel Its contemporary lines have also been made sleeker and stamped with the now iconic X associated with the brand’s latest generation of timepieces The most complex phase of the Blast Hourstriker’s development involved redesigning the entire kinematics of this 330 component striking caliber to allow this highly sophisticated mechanism, which is usually hidden from view, to be seen dial side When the striker is on, the mechanical ballet that makes the watch’s sound is visible on the hour and half hour, but even its occasional activation is just as beautiful By pressing the button located at 10 o’clock, the mechanism, driven by a specially dedicated barrel, is triggered The hour rack and the inertia regulator start to turn the hammers, visible in an opening made at 12 o’clock, hit the gong whose shape has been subtly worked to bypass the cage of the flying tourbillon

An exceptional mechanism requires an exceptional case So Ulysse Nardin decided to encase a movement inspired by the power of nature in a design inspired by a powerful man made machine the stealth airplane To truly allow the sound of the Blast Hourstriker to resonate, the distinctive 45 mm Blast case was given a black DLC titanium middle, capped with 5 N 18 kt rose gold, for improved acoustics To silence this imposing timepiece with the button located at 8 o’clock on the middle must be pressed and then the ‘ or ‘ position at the tip of the function selector hand located at 8 o’clock checked The three straps that come with the Blast Hourstriker allow its different personalities to be explored The black high tech, waterproof velvet option emphasizes its aerodynamism, while the alligator brings its more sophisticated side to the fore In addition, a rubber strap is also available for this model Whatever you choose, remember the Blast Hourstriker is made to be heard not seen.

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HUBLOT BIG BANG UNICO SANG BLEU II MEXICO

HUBLOT BIG BANG UNICO SANG BLEU II MEXICO

A mechanical sculpture for the wrist, the Big Bang Sang Bleu II is available in a new limited edition especially designed for Mexico, blending tattoo art and mysticism with state-of-the-art technology.

To stay up-to-date, follow: @Hublot #Hublot #BigBangSangBleu With the Big Bang Sang Bleu II Mexico, Sang Bleu and Hublot once again combine tattoo art with cutting-edge watchmaking. Produced in a limited edition of 50 pieces and unveiled at the SIAR watch fair, it has been specially designed for the Mexican market. Continuing the symbolism of Maxime Plescia-Buchi’s creations, this new work reinterprets the ancestral art of tattooing, propelling it into a futuristic culture made of carbon.

Mexico and Hublot have a shared passion. For many years, this market has demonstrated its affinity for our watchmaking expertise. I am delighted that we are able to dedicate this limited edition from the imagination of Sang Bleu to them. A perfect illustration of our Art of Fusion philosophy.”
Ricardo Guadalupe
HUBLOT CEO

Encircled by a hexagonal carbon bezel, the motifs on its dial are highlighted in matt black interspersed with green. Measuring 45 mm in diameter, the carbon case houses a Unico automatic chronograph. This HUB1240.MXM manufacture movement, with sufficient torque to support the weight of the signature hands plate of the Sang Bleu line, boasts a power reserve of 72 hours. Interlacing geometric forms criss-cross the bezel and case, extending onto the black rubber strap. Thanks to the patented One Click attachment system, the strap can easily be swapped for a second green rubber strap provided as standard with the watch. Both are completed with a black PVD and ceramic deployant buckle clasp.


HUBLOT
Founded in Switzerland in 1980, HUBLOT is defined by its innovation, which began with the highly original combination of gold and rubber. This “Art of Fusion” stems from the imagination of its visionary Chairman, Jean-Claude Biver, and has been driven forward by CEO Ricardo Guadalupe since 2012.
Discover the HUBLOT universe at our network of boutiques located in key cities across the globe: Geneva, Paris, London, New York, Hong Kong, Dubai, Tokyo, Singapore, Zurich and at HUBLOT.com

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Vacheron Constantin – High Watchmaking: Astronomical watches

Vacheron Constantin

High Watchmaking: Astronomical watches

  • Horology stems from the observation and study of the stars dating right back to the earliest ancient civilisations
  • Twenty years after its foundation in 1755, the first watches with astronomical indications appeared at Vacheron Constantin.
  • The Manufacture has developed a rare breed of expertise in Grand Complication watches dedicated to the movement and influence of the moon, stars and planets.

Geneva, November 17th 2021 – Horology, the science of time measurement, was born from the observations of heavenly bodies and natural cycles. The mechanical instruments developed by horologists stem from these observations, reflecting an art that has continued to progress since the late Middle Ages. Founded in 1755, Vacheron Constantin developed a perfect mastery of astronomical indications at a very early stage, progressively enriching it over the two and a half centuries of the Manufacture’s existence. Today, the Maison produces watchmaking masterpieces of great astronomical complexity.

Astronomical watches remind us of the origins of watchmaking. Born of the observation of the great physical laws of Nature, the measurement of time is in fact a material extrapolation of the movement of the stars and cycles. This mechanically translated interpretation has given rise across the ages to timepieces capable of offering a wide variety of functions, and of varying degrees of complexity, linked to the singularities of the Gregorian calendar, to the various temporalities governing our universe, or to the motion of heavenly bodies and their impact on the Earth. Although many of these functions are not of practical use, they nonetheless testify to expertise that is all the rarer in that it lends a cosmological dimension to these watches forming a link between humankind and the universe. From its earliest days, Vacheron Constantin has shown great interest in watches with astronomical functions, including various types of calendar displays and indications of the phases and age of the Moon, often combined with other horological complications. Since the 2000s, this technical mastery has been illustrated in particular through its Les Cabinotiers department, whose astronomical watches are masterpieces of their kind.

Astronomical functions

The astronomical functions of a wristwatch include indications related to the particularities of the Gregorian calendar, as well as a wide variety of displays related to the movement of the stars. In addition to the main functions listed below, the most complex of them may offer a system for predicting lunar and solar eclipses, the position of the stars as seen from the Earth, displays of the ephemerides (solstices, equinoxes, seasons), the signs of the zodiac, a tideograph, sunrise and sunset, the duration of day and night, the annual deviation or angular movement of the Moon, etc. All this bearing in mind that a good number of these functions are valid exclusively for a given location. The most “common” astronomical watches include one or more of the following indications.

  • Calendars

A simple calendar watch is a watch that, in addition to the time, provides calendar information – usually the date – but whose mechanism does not automatically keep step with the irregularity of successive months. When such a calendar also provides indications including the day of the week, phases of the moon and even the year, it is called a complete calendar. This type of complication requires five adjustments per year. Unlike a simple calendar, an annual calendar automatically takes into account the irregularity of 30- or 31-day months, except for February, meaning that manual adjustment is required on March 1st each year. A perpetual calendar, on the other hand, indicates calendar functions such as the date, month and day of the week, taking into account months with 28, 30 or 31 days, as well as leap years.

  • Moon phases

The moon-phase indication is frequently associated with the perpetual calendar. It serves to reproduce the cycle of Earth’s satellite (new Moon, first quarter, full Moon, last quarter) on the watch dial. The phases of the Moon should not be confused with the age of the Moon which indicates the time (in days) elapsed since the last new Moon.

  • Equation of time

The equation of time is defined by the difference between solar time – or true time – and civil time – or mean time. The former is the time as shown on a sundial, while the latter is the time displayed on a watch. The difference between the two ranges from -16 minutes to +14 minutes and occurs during the course of the year, due to the Earth’s elliptical orbit and the tilt of its axis.

  • Sidereal time

The time it takes for the Earth to complete one full spin on its axis (360°) is 23 hours, 56 minutes, 4 seconds, and is called the sidereal day. Because of the Earth’s revolution around the Sun and its rotation on its own axis, the solar day – the time difference between two passages of the Sun through the zenith point (meridian) – lasts a few extra minutes. Using a fixed star in the sky instead of the Sun as a reference point, this sidereal time is used as a basis for astronomical observations.

  • Sky map

The sky chart is a planispherical representation on a disc or dial of the sky at a given location on the globe. This surface is rotated at a rate of one revolution per year – thereby offering a ‘snapshot’ of the sky at a given time – or of one revolution per sidereal day, which provides a view of the sky in real time.

Advanced mechanics

The perpetual calendar is often considered one of horology’s finest gems for its ability to display the exact date for an all but infinite duration (with the exception of secular years not divisible by 400), taking into account the variable length of the months and the leap-year cycle. To accomplish this mechanical feat, the movement must have a “memory” of 1,461 days, equivalent to four years. The essential component of these mechanisms is the month cam on which the different monthly durations are programmed. Equation of time mechanisms are also governed by a cam – which is in this case asymmetrical, performs one revolution in a year and features a shape derived from the analemma.

This results in a one-day discrepancy for this type of mechanism that must be corrected every 2 years and 7 months. Watches with a precision moon-phase display have a wheel with 135 teeth. With this system, the deviation from the lunar cycle is reduced to one day every 122 years. Another astral representation is the rotating sky chart, of which the visible part corresponding to the skyline is delimited by an ellipse, and which generally makes one revolution in one day in order to offer a vision of the sky in real time.

This rotation is calculated according to sidereal time, which is 3 minutes and 56 seconds shorter than the average day. Technically, the simplest solution consists of integrating two kinetic chains in the movement, from the barrel to the regulating organ, the first beating at the mean solar time rate of one revolution in 24 hours and the second at the slightly faster sidereal time rate of one revolution in 23 hours, 56 minutes and 4 seconds.

Astronomical paternity

The appearance of megalithism around 5000 BC owes nothing to chance. These thousands of precisely oriented stone monuments – of which one of the best-known is the circle of menhirs at Stonehenge – are regarded as the first astronomical observatories. It was however not until around 4200 BC that these first observations took on a more scientific nature, when the birth of writing played a decisive role by making it possible to record events, perform calculations, establish chronologies and make forecasts. Writing appeared in Mesopotamia, and gradually became established in Egypt in the following century – and then some 2,000 years later in China and the Mayan Empire. Each great civilisation then set about developing its own calendar based on the visible movement of the Sun or the Moon, or both.

It was the Mesopotamians, around 2400 BC, who invented a common unit of measurement for calculating distances and time, which is still the basis of our sexagesimal system of degrees of angle and minutes today. This spatialisation of time was decisive when it came to sequencing it according to the course of the stars. The development of mechanical engineering, which already emerged at the time of Aristotle, was thus able to give shape to the counting of time and its astronomical dimension. As soon as the first clocks appeared in the 13th and 14th centuries, mechanical horologists set out to reproduce on dials the movements of the solar system’s main planets. The pocket watches of the Renaissance were direct heirs to these large astronomical clocks. Well before the invention of the minutes hand, these watches already indicated the time, the date, the days of the week, the months and their duration, the moon phases and the signs of the zodiac. These astronomical watches, which were very popular in the 17th century, are still considered to be models of their kind today.

From that time onwards, ingenious watchmakers redoubled their efforts to make their mechanisms more accurate – resulting in the appearance of minutes and then seconds hands – and more compact. This miniaturisation naturally made it difficult to depict certain astronomical functions, except for the date and its most sophisticated perpetual calendar interpretation, accompanied by a moon-phase display. As of the 19th century, any Grand Complication watch had to incorporate a mechanism capable of following the irregularities of the Gregorian calendar. At that time, some exceptional pocket watches also reproduced celestial mechanics by displaying the equation of time, sunrise and sunset times or sidereal time. These functions can be found in the highly complicated timepieces of the first half of the 20th century. The advent of the wristwatch, however, put a stop to these technical masterpieces – while nonetheless not provoking their complete disappearance. Since the revival of the mechanical watch at the end of the 1980s, the astronomical watch has enjoyed a clear resurgence in interest and currently represents a supreme demonstration of expertise.

 

Vacheron Constantin and calendar watches

The first mention of a pocket watch in Vacheron Constantin’s records dates back to a period prior to 1773, i.e. the early years of the workshop founded by Jean-Marc Vacheron in 1755. A decade later, the range of complications developed under the leadership of Jean-Marc’s son Abraham Vacheron, notably exemplified by the first complete calendar dating from 1785 and appearing on a brass dial with a floral motif. The archives of the Maison accurately retrace this progressive mastery of astronomical complications, beginning in 1829 with the first recorded order for a watch featuring a simple calendar and moon phases, and again in 1884 for a perpetual calendar integrated into a double-sided yellow gold pocket watch now belonging to Vacheron Constantin’s private collection. This achievement marked the beginning of an epic mechanical saga that was to take on greater significance at the turn of the century.

As early as 1900, the company set up a workshop exclusively dedicated to the assembly of watches with complications, and orders poured in for complicated and even very complicated watches. The perpetual calendar was thus combined with other technical feats, as in this 1901 pink gold pocket watch incorporating a minute repeater, chronograph and perpetual calendar with phases and age of the moon. This masterpiece of mechanical artistry typifying Grand Complication watches prefigures the historic golden age of complicated watches at Vacheron Constantin. An era that culminated in the 1920s and 1930s, notably with the astronomical pocket watch made in 1929 for King Fouad I of Egypt. This masterful timepiece combines a split-seconds chronograph, a perpetual calendar, a minute repeater and a Grande and Petite Sonnerie mechanism.

The heyday of the perpetual calendar

Throughout most of the 20th century, Vacheron Constantin remained faithful to its classic and elegant approach to horological complications, including the perpetual calendar in pocket watches until the 1960s. These decades were thus punctuated by a number of exceptional creations, including this gold pocket watch from 1946 with minute repeater, chronograph and perpetual calendar displaying the phases and age of the moon. Elegance was notably expressed by models featuring impressive slimness made possible by their thin movements. In 1955, Vacheron Constantin had already presented its manual-winding Calibre 1003, which was barely 1.64 mm thick, a real feat. Some 12 years later, the company achieved a new feat – this time in the field of self-winding movements – with its Calibre 1120 measuring 2.45 mm thick. It was this specific movement, skeletonised for the occasion, that served as the basis for the first perpetual calendar (Calibre 1120 QP) housed in an ultra-thin wristwatch introduced by Vacheron Constantin in 1983.

While complete calendars, triple calendars with moon phases and retrograde calendar indications are part of the grand traditions of the Maison, the perpetual calendar remains one of its preferred complications, currently interpreted in the Patrimony, Traditionnelle and Overseas collections. This inclination has notably been reflected in a major new model presented in 2019 with the Traditionnelle Twin Beat perpetual calendar . With its two going trains operating at different rhythms, the watch can be slowed down to a “resting position” ensuring at least 65 days of power reserve. In its “classic” version, the perpetual calendar also remains a basic function of grand complication mechanisms, an unchanging tradition at Vacheron Constantin. In recent years, the Manufacture has distinguished itself with timepieces whose complexity has become an art in itself, such as the Tour de l’île with its 16 watchmaking and astronomical complications, produced in 2005 for the 250th anniversary of the Maison. Ten years later, for its 260th anniversary, Vacheron Constantin presented another timepiece destined to make watchmaking history, the Reference 57260 and its 57 complications, making this one-of-a-kind model the most complicated watch in the world.

Astronomy at its peak

At Vacheron Constantin, mastery of astronomical functions is by no means confined to calendar functions. In the world of pocket watches, the Manufacture responded at an early stage to specific requests from customers and collectors who were particularly sensitive to this dimension of watchmaking. In 1890, for example, at the request of a Parisian client, the Manufacture created a watch indicating sidereal time. Some 20 years later, the company archives mention a movement blank designed to power a display of true solar time, associated with a simple calendar as well as sunrise and sunset indications. The year 1919 was also marked by the delivery of a perpetual calendar movement with moon phases, sunrise and sunset and retrograde equation of time, a true mechanical rarity. This tradition of astronomical indications based on the course of the stars – which been put on hold for a time due to the miniaturisation requirements of the wristwatch – has made a major comeback in the Maison’s collections since the powerful late 20th century craze for mechanical watches and has been further strengthened since the creation of the Les Cabinotiers department.

Responsible for special orders and exceptional creations for the Maison in the form of one-of-a-kind timepieces, this department has produced veritable masterpieces in the field of astronomical watches with highly sophisticated complications. Among these is the Celestia Astronomical grand complication 3600 (2017) and its 23 functions inspired by astronomy, including a reading of civil, solar and sidereal time. This same reading is found on the Astronomical striking grand complication – Ode to music (2020) and its 19 essentially astronomical functions coupled with a minute repeater. The theme chosen for the Les Cabinotiers watches introduced in 2021 was Le Temps Céleste (celestial time), masterfully expressed through three exceptional timepieces. Among them are the Armillary perpetual calendar – Planetaria watch, featuring a jumping retrograde perpetual calendar regulated by a double-axis tourbillon and complemented by a 3D depiction of the two hemispheres for the 24-hour and day/night indications. Expressed at this level, astronomical complications are undoubtedly both science and art.

A beautiful tribute

In the 19th century, Vacheron Constantin’s reputation was well established, particularly in the world of accuracy, which earned the company numerous prizes for excellence in chronometry (precision timekeeping) awarded by the Geneva Observatory, among others. The Manufacture’s customers therefore increasingly placed orders for timepieces meeting their needs, which were strictly formulated when it comes to astronomical observations. A letter addressed to Vacheron Constantin on February 24th 1853 by Count Hyppolite Salino, secretary of the Sardinian Legation in Paris, features a request for a thermometer and date watch: “(…) as I intend to use this watch for astronomical observations, I would like it to be a true chronometer, crafted with the perfection that the works emerging from your workshops come so close to attaining”. A glowing tribute to the watchmaking excellence of Vacheron Constantin.

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Watch selection

Double-sided yellow gold pocket watch with 48-month perpetual calendar and moon phases –1884

This is the first recorded Vacheron Constantin pocket watch to incorporate a perpetual calendar and features a double-sided display. The display of time including small seconds appears on the front enamel dial with Roman numerals and external minute-track, while the perpetual calendar is displayed on four counters visible through the transparent caseback. The vertical axis features the date and the day of the week, while the age and phases of the moon appear on the horizontal axis opposite the month display. This subdial divided into four quarters is staggered over 48 months with the leap year indicated by the same hand. This timepiece is all the more remarkable in that it won a First Prize for chronometry at the Geneva Observatory competition.

Grand Complication yellow gold pocket watch with tourbillon, perpetual calendar, moon phases and split-seconds chronograph – 1931

This extremely complicated watch is a collector’s item. A very rare model for its time, it displays a perpetual calendar with the age and phases of the moon, together with a split-seconds chronograph as well as a 32-hour power reserve indication. Regulated by a tourbillon, which can be seen by lifting the cover protecting the caseback, this watch won First Prize in the 1934 Geneva Observatory competition. Produced in 1931, it is a perfect example of the golden age that Vacheron Constantin experienced at that time in the production of pocket watches with multiple complications, perfect readability and infallible chronometry.

King Farouk yellow gold Grand Complication pocket watch – 1934

One of the most complicated watches of its time. This imposing model – measuring 80 millimetres in diameter and which took more than five years to complete – is equipped with 13 hands. Its calibre incorporates 820 components that drive 14 complications. This double going-train watch in 18K yellow gold was presented to King Farouk of Egypt in 1946 and remained in his collection until 1954. It includes a chiming minute repeater and Grande and Petite Sonnerie equipped with three gongs and three hammers, a split-seconds chronograph with a 30-minute counter, a perpetual calendar, an indication of the phases and age of the moon, an alarm clock and two power-reserve indicators.

“Cioccolatone” yellow gold square curved wristwatch with triple calendar and moon phases – 1954

In the 1950s, post-war exuberance led to new forms of design that were both functional and unrestrained. Vacheron Constantin’s response to this new trend took the form of this large, organically square wristwatch with rounded lugs and bezel, as well as a slightly curved case. Nicknamed “Cioccolatone”, this watch has become an iconic symbol of the design typical of that period. Introduced at the beginning of the decade, it has been interpreted through several variations, including this most emblematic Reference 4764 with triple calendar and moon phases.

Ultra-thin platinum wristwatch with perpetual calendar and moon phases – 1988

At the height of the hegemony of quartz watches in the 1980s, Vacheron Constantin took a gamble on the mechanical watch by producing this complication watch, the first perpetual calendar with moon phases on a wristwatch from the Maison, which was also offered in an ultra-thin version. This model played an important role in the renewed interest in high-end watchmaking and its complicated mechanical watches. Presented in 1983, this reference –interpreted through several iterations including a skeleton version – remained in production until 2006. The watch is particularly elegant thanks to its movement measuring barely 4.05 mm thick: the ultra-thin Calibre 1120 QP complete with date module.

Les Cabinotiers Celestia Astronomical Grand Complication 3600 – 2017

The unique double-sided Celestia Astronomical Grand Complication 3600 combines astronomy and the art of watchmaking in a “celestial” white gold composition. The watch incorporates 23 mainly astronomical horological complications appearing on both sides of the case, offering a reading of the time in three different modes – civil, solar and sidereal – each driven by its own gear train. Its new fully integrated calibre has nearly 514 components housed in a thickness of barely 8.7 mm, while six barrels guarantee it a three-week autonomy.

Les Cabinotiers Tourbillon armillary perpetual calendar – Planetaria – 2021

Equipped with the new manual-winding Calibre 1991, the result of four years of development, this one-of-a-kind timepiece features a perpetual calendar with a retrograde display of the date, day and month. It also features a rare 3D depiction representing the Earth’s Northern and Southern hemispheres. The two titanium globes perform a complete rotation in 24 hours complete with a day/night indication. The movement is regulated by a dual-axis tourbillon whose interlocking cages move at a speed of 60 seconds per rotation.