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RELOJES: ROLEX Y LINDSEY VONN

Bajo el lema “ Cada Rolex tiene una historia que contar” y de la mano de la esquiadora Lindsey Vonn, la marca “Rolex” presenta su nuevo modelo “Oyster Perpetual Day-Date 40”. Y es que tal y como su nombre indica Oyster (ostra) este reloj es una auténtica reliquia.

El modelo Day-Date fue el primer reloj de pulsera con calendario que indica, desde su aparición en 1956, el día de la semana con todas las letras. Y es que Hans Wilsdorf, fundador de la manufactura, fue un auténtico visionario, ejemplo de ello es que en 1926, cuando no existían los relojes resistentes al agua, ya mostraba en las joyerías su modelo Oyster (ostra) sumergido en un tanque de agua. ROLEX Y LINDSEY VONN

Aunque algunos de los referentes de este preciado reloj son Olivia Palermo, Alexia Chuck o Chiari Ferragni la firma ha escogido a Lindsey Vonn para su última campaña de publicidad pues la esquiadora tiene una historia preciosa detrás para contar.

La ganadora de la Copa del mundo de Esquí Alpino, la estadounidense Lindsey Vonn, está considerada como una de las esquiadoras de mayor éxito del mundo. Su habilidad para esquiar se vio truncada en 2013 cuando se lesionó el tobillo, lo que le hizo perder una temporada completa de esquí, así como los Juegos Olímpicos de Sochi. Aunque fue un duro golpe para su carrera, su valentía y perseverancia hicieron que ese obstáculo se convirtiera en su mayor fortaleza en la actualidad. Durante su recuperación, Lindsey recibió un Rolex para recordarle que nunca podía tirar la toalla. Sobre el reloj, Vonn ha comentado: “El reloj me recuerda que soy capaz de conseguir todo lo que me proponga.”

Este modelo se caracteriza por ser un reloj de oro de 18 quilates elaborado exclusivamente con los metales más puros y sometidos a las más meticulosas inspecciones en un laboratorio interno con tecnología puntera, antes de formar el oro y con la misma atención que se presta a la calidad. La esfera de color champagne también está manufacturada a mano en sus talleres para garantizar su perfección. En Rolex la correa del reloj está bautizada como brazalete President y su diseño, desarrollo y producción están elaborados con metales preciosos rigurosamente seleccionados que representan el máximo confort y refinamiento.

 

Un auténtico paradigma del lujo que, por su sofistiación y feminidad, se torna pieza esencial de un fondo de joyero de élite.

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RELOJES: MONTBLANC – Hugh Jackman presents the new Montblanc TimeWalker collection

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RELOJES: ROGER DUBUIS – Excalibur entra en la era del carbono

Excalibur Spider Carbon
Skeleton Flying Tourbillon

Roger Dubuis crea Excalibur Spider Carbon, una pieza característica principal es que está hecha con fibra de carbono.

Tal como explica el Director de Estrategia de Productos, Gregory Bruttin: «La diferencia del 50 % en términos de peso es resultado elección de este material.

Cómo consecuencia de eso, aumenta en un 50% el tiempo reserva de marcha, incrementándose así a 90 horas.

En conclusión, una pieza exclusiva, deportiva, moderna y ligera, para poder exprimir cada segundo al tiempo.

Excalibur Spider Carbon: Automático esqueletizado

Es la primera vez que la Manufactura alía su icónico concepto con su calibre súperventas 820SQ.

La combinación de la experiencia técnica con las habilidades estéticas del equipo de desarrollo, han sido capaces de preservar de forma magistral toda la transparencia mecanizada que cabe esperar de un movimiento esqueletizado de Roger Dubuis.

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COLLECIONISMO: RELOJES – PATEK PHILIPPE & CO., GENEVA, SUBASTA EN SOTHEBY’S

PATEK PHILIPPE & CO., GENEVA, REFERENCE 989, MOVEMENT NO. 844000, CASE NO. 2839425, STARTED IN 1980 AND COMPLETED IN 1989 TO COMMEMORATE PATEK PHILIPPE’S 150TH JUBILEE ANNIVERSARY

A yellow gold, double dialled and double open faced, minute repeating, grande and petite sonnerie clockwatch with Westminster chimes, split seconds chronograph, registers for 60-minutes and 12-hours, perpetual calendar, retrograde date, indications for century, leap year cycle, seasons, second time zone, date of Easter, astrological indications, moon phases, equation of time, dual power reserve for striking and going trains, mean and sidereal time, alarm, temperature, indications for times of sunrise/sunset and a celestial chart for the night time sky over Geneva, Switzerland at 46° 11’ 59” minutes north latitudeAccompanied by the original Patek Philippe fitted wood box with a plaque engraved, ‘Calibre 89’. Together with a Patek Philippe Portfolio with Extract from the Archives confirming the date of manufacture in 1989, with outer presentation slip case, gold corrector and gold key.reloj
http://www.sothebys.com/en/auctions/ecatalogue/2017/important-watches-ge1701/lot.171.html

READ CONDITION REPORT SALEROOM NOTICE

PROVENANCE

Antiquorum, Geneva, April 1989, The Art of Patek Philippe, lot 301The Matsuda Collection, Tokyo

Antiquorum, Geneva, November 2009, Celebrating 35 Years of Making History in Time, lot 364

Property of a Private Collector

EXHIBITED

Tiffany & Co., New York, March 7–10, 1989 and Beverly Hills, March 14–15, 1989

LITERATURE

Martin Huber and Alan Banbery, Patek Philippe, Geneva, 1993 (2nd ed.), pp. 274–286Alan Downing and René Bittel, Voyage to the End of Time, Geneva, 1989

Nicholas Foulkes, Patek Philippe: The Authorized Biography, London, 2016, pp. 321–355

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CATALOGUE NOTE

IN THE COURSE OF PATEK PHILIPPE’S DISTINGUISHED HISTORY, THE FIRM HAS CREATED MANY EXTRAORDINARY WATCHES THAT HAVE CHALLENGED THE WAY WE THINK ABOUT TIMEPIECES.  AMONGST THE MANY COMPLICATED AND SIGNIFICANT TIMEPIECES EVER CREATED, THE CALIBRE 89 HAS REDEFINED THE FIELD OF HOROLOGY DUE TO THE INGENUITY OF ITS CREATORS.  IT IS AN HONOUR TO OFFER THE CALIBRE 89, THE MOST COMPLICATED WATCH OF THE 20TH CENTURY, AND PATEK PHILIPPE’S MOST COMPLICATED MASTERPIECE TO DATE. 

Philippe Stern: A Declaration of Independence

 Throughout its 178 years as a master watchmaking firm, Patek Philippe has created an abundance of extraordinary watches, challenging the way consumers think about timepieces. Among the most complicated and significant watches ever created, the Calibre 89 not only represents Patek Philippe’s unrivaled position at the apex of horology, but it also illustrates the firm’s unwavering belief in the superiority of the mechanical watch. Made at a time when the impact of the quartz crisis was still reverberating through the Swiss watch industry, the Calibre 89 is an affirmation of the unsurpassable genius of the watchmaker’s art. With 33 complications, the Calibre 89 remains Patek Philippe’s most complicated watch.

 While the Swiss watch industry underwent profound advances and changes, Honorary President, (then Vice President and Managing Director) Philippe Stern, boldly faced the challenges of the modern world with a new manifesto. Under Stern, the company published a brochure titled A Declaration of Independence in 1974. Patek Philippe reaffirmed its integrity as a family-owned business and reassured its retail partners of its commitment to excellence in the face of the mass-produced and easily accessible quartz watch.

 Stern’s challenge was to push Patek Philippe into the modern world while retaining the venerable culture on which its success and reputation originated. The company’s new approach to marketing and innovation redefined Patek Philippe in the final two decades of the twentieth century.  Changes in socioeconomic status and consumer culture paved the way for a new type of consumer with very high spending power but little knowledge of traditional and bespoke brands such as Patek Philippe.  Stern wisely targeted this deficit through an aggressive and cohesive marketing strategy.

 “Our marketing objective is to make Patek Philippe known as the best watch. We have to look after this new clientele and point out to them that Patek Philippe stands for original watchmaking that is above fashion and trends, and also something that is not an industrial product.” (Philippe Stern in Nicholas Foulkes, Patek Philippe: The Authorized Biography, 2016, p. 338)

 The Calibre 89 was devised during a discussion beD

Secular Calendar and Leap Year:  The Perpetual Calendar shows the correct day of the week, date of the month and month of the year regardless of the length of the month, it also adjusts for the leap year.  Since the duration of a Solar year is 365 days, 5 hours, 48 minutes and 46 seconds, an extra day is added every four years (leap year).  According to the Gregorian Calendar reforms of 1582, only century years that are divisible by 400 without remainder are considered leap years.  Unlike the Graves, the Calibre 89 compensates for this, thus it will not count the years 2100, 2200 and 2300 as leap years.

The aperture immediately to the right of the year indication displays the leap year cycle from 1-4..

Year Indication: The year indication appears in an aperture right under the winding-crown-position indicator.  A metal disk has the numerals for centuries up to the 27th century.

Mechanism to halt chime: Two mainspring barrels in the first tier of the movement power the chime and the alarm.  The chime consists of four gongs, and is regulated by a centrifugal governor.  When the repeater is in use, it can run down the mainspring in the barrel that powers the chime.  If the watch is set to chime in passing, a blocking mechanism stops the Grand Strike or Small Strike before the mainspring of the chimes completely runs down.

Winding-Crown position indicator: The Winding Crown position indicator is also unique to the Calibre 89.  Placed towards the top of the mean solar time dial, it indicates the different positions at which the winding crown must be at in order to set specific functions of the watch.  Position R to wind the movement and the chime, Position A to set astronomical calendar and the alarm, Position B to set sidereal time and mean solar time.

The Mean Time Dial

Cream dial, applied yellow gold Breguet numerals, outer track for minutes with red five minute divisions, double-sunk subsidiary dials for 30-minute and 12-hour registers combined with power reserve indications for going and striking trains respectively, further double-sunk subsidiary dial for constant seconds and temperature combined with moon-phases, retrograde date, apertures for day, month, year, and leap year indication, crown position indicator, yellow gold Breguet hour and minute hands, blued steel Breguet hand for second time zone, blued steel split second hands, blued steel triangular alarm indicator, hands for temperature and power reserve indications, blued steel hands for subsidiary seconds and chronograph minute/hour registers

1. Winding-Crown-Position Indicator

2. Century Decade and Year

3. Leap Year Indication

4. Split Seconds

5. Seconds in Meantime

6. Power Reserve for Movement

7. 30-Minute Register

8. Month

9. Second Time Zone

10. Constant Seconds

11. Moon-Phases

12. Temperature °C

13. Day

14. Power Reserve for Chime

15. Alarm

16. Hours in Meantime

17. 12-Hour Register

18. Date

The Sidereal Dial

White dial, painted gold Arabic numerals calibrated for 24 hours, inner minute track, subsidiary dials for sunrise, sunset and sidereal seconds combined with the equation of time, outermost ring for seasons, solstice and equinox indications, zodiac, and months, blued steel feuille hands for hours and minutes, blued steel hand for indicating date of Easter, yellow gold sun-tipped hand indicating to outer rings, blued steel hands for sunrise/sunset and subsidiary seconds, gold hand for equation of time, large aperture revealing the celestial chart surrounded with the cardinal points, the celestial disc composed of corundum sapphire crystal marked with 2,800 distinct gilt stars in five sizes according to their orders of magnitude, on the reverse side of the transparent disc with applied fine gold dust representing the Milky Way, the whole night sky for the horizon at the latitude of Geneva, Switzerland, 46 ° 11’ 59” North

1. Month

2. Signs of the Zodiac

3. Seasons

4. Minutes in Sidereal time

5. Celestial Chart over Geneva, Switzerland

6. Time of Sunset

7. Constant Seconds in Sidereal Time

8. Solstice

9. Sun Hand

10. Equation of Time

11. Time of Sunrise

12. Equinox

13. Hours in Sidereal Time

14. Date of Easter

The movement of the Calibre 89 is composed of four separate tiers on three plates. The plates are made of the alloy maillechort, more commonly referred to as German silver. Within the movement are three mainspring barrels, powering the main functions of the watch and calendar, the alarm, and the repeat function respectively. The multi-tiered construction not only allows the watch to convey all the information of its 33 complications to the dial, but also allows the configuration of the dials to retain symmetry and attractive proportions.

 The Movement

Tier 1

Containing the chime, alarm, power reserve for the movement and repeater, and 12-hour register.

 Tier 2

Containing the mean-time, tourbillon, chronograph function and 30-minute register.

 Tier 3

Containing the functions of the sidereal dial including the sidereal time, star chart, seasons, solstices and equinoxes, Zodiac calendar, equation of time, sunrise and sunset.

 Tier 4

Containing the functions of the perpetual calendar including the month, day and date, moon phases, second time zone, and the one non-horological function, the thermometer.

The Case

The classic bassine case of the Calibre 89 was made in house by Patek Philippe. It is cut from three pieces of 18 carat yellow gold, and consists of a central case band that supports the plates of the movement, the band fitted with a slide at the crown, engraved CL (Cadran Légal) and CS (Cadran sidéral), slide for strike/ silent engraved S/O, for slide for petite sonnerie and grande sonnerie engraved GS/PS, repeat slide at 6 o’clock, one large slide for winding of the alarm, with two bezels on which the crystals are installed to protect the dials. Two corundum sapphire crystals are fitted atop each dial which is scratch resistant against virtually every common material, except diamond. The case boasts a massive diameter of 88.2 mm, 41.07 mm total thickness including the crystals, and, including the movement, weighs a total of 1,100 grams (2 lb, 43 oz). The case itself weighs an impressive 500 grams, twice the weight of the Henry Graves Supercomplication.

With such an enormous number of complications co-existing within one finely tuned case, even the simplest of functions and configurations were put to the test and met with challenges. The winding-crown-position indicator is a simple function where a needle points to one of the three positions to which the winding-crown is set to perform certain tasks. However, as the complication was developed and ordered after the entire watch had been designed, fitting this otherwise simple function was nearly impossible without the perfecting eye of Patek Philippe’s, Jean-Pierre Musy and Paul Buclin.

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RELOJES: Reloj – CORUM – DESIGN PARTNER 47 BOOBA

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CORUM – DESIGN PARTNER 47 BOOBA

SPECIFICATIONS

MOVEMENT

CALIBER : CO 082 – AUTOMATIC

FUNCTIONS : HOUR & MINUTE, SECOND

POWER RESERVE : 42 HOURS

FREQUENCY : 4 HZ, 28’800 VPH

SIZE : 11 1/2”’

JEWELS : 21

DISTINCTIVE FEATURE : –zoom2-1

CASE

SIZE : 47 MM

THICKNESS : 18.50 MM

MATERIAL : STAINLESS STEEL WITH 5N 18KT ROSE GOLD PVD TREATMENT

GLASS : DOMED SAPPHIRE CRYSTAL WITH ANTI REFLECTIVE TREATMENTDOMED SAPPHIRE CRYSTAL WITH ANTI REFLECTIVE TREATMENT

CASEBACK : SCREWED IN OPEN BACK COVER IN STAINLESS STEEL WITH GLARE PROOF SAPPHIRE CRYSTAL

GEMSETTING : –

WATER RESISTANCE : 100 METERS / 10 ATM

MÁS INFORMACIÓN: www.corum.ch/novelties2017/watch/47-booba/

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RELOJES: BOVET – Experiencia con Virtuoso III

VIRTUOSO-III

Virtuoso III

UNA ADICIÓN BIENVENIDA A LA COLECCIÓN GRANDES COMPLICACIONES ofreciendo funciones realmente útiles, el Tourbillon Virtuoso III es una hermosa y culta adición al mundo de la alta relojería y mantiene vivo un grado incomparable de experiencia, con lo que el pasado de BOVET resueltamente hacia el futuro.

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RELOJES: PATEK PHILIPPE Espectacular modelo 5207 de Patek

patek-philippe-5207-3
El modelo 5207 de Patek, lleva en sus entrañas el calibre R TO 27 PS QI. El significado de estas siglas y números es el siguiente:

La R significa repetición a minutos
Las letras TO ignifican que el mecanismo monta un tourbillon
La cifra 27 significaque el mecanismo tiene 27 milímetros de diámetro
Las letras PS significan que el reloj leva un segundero pequeño
Las letras QI significan que el mecanismo tiene la complicación de calendario perpetuo instantáneo.

patek-philippe-grand-complication-5207p3Características técnicas:
-Reloj mecánico de cuerda manual.
-Calibre R TO 27 PS QI.
-Funciones: Horas, minutos, tourbillon, repetición de minutos, calendario perpetuo y fases de luna.
-35 rubíes.
-Reserva de marcha de 48 horas.
-21.600 alternancias por hora.
-Tourbillon con jaula de acero, 69 componentes, 1 vuelta por minuto.Tourbillon en el mismo eje que el volante y la rueda de segundos.
-Espiral Breguet.
-Pitón móvil.
-Certificado COSC.
-Sello de distinción Punzón de Ginebra.
-Caja de platino.
-Diámetro de la caja: 41 mm.
-Grosor: 16,25 mm.
-Pulsera de piel de cocodrilo con escamas cuadradas de color marrón. Cosida a mano y con cierre de hebilla de platino.

Valoración estética
Desde este punto de vista el reloj tiene un mérito indiscutible al haber logrado presentar una esfera en absoluto recargada. El calendario perpetuo por ventanas facilita extraordinariamente la lectura aunque lógicamente desplaza la complicación al interior del reloj. Da la impresión de que Patek ha pretendido construir un reloj muy muy complicado, pero que no se note.

El Tourbillon no se ve a través e la esfera, lo cual es un indudable acierto técnico y estético.

Por ponerle una pega a la esfera, esas dos ventanitas pequeñas relacionadas con el calendario perpetuo situadas a ambos lados de la fase lunar rompen un poco la armonía de la esfera, pero teniendo en cuenta las complicaciones del reloj, el juicio debe ser muy positivo.

De hecho, los pulsadores de corrección de datos están bien protegidos y ocultos entre la correa y los laterales superior e inferior de la caja, a fin de que no se pulsen por accidente, y para que no se vean en exceso.

El reloj es de esos que hacen soñar, completamente inalcanzable porque además se harán poquísimas unidades, pero que demuestra quien es la número uno, y por qué.

El precio del reloj, y es un suponer, podría estar entre los 400.000 y los 700.000 euros.

Patek_Philippe-logo-1110B122D7-seeklogo.com

Más Información: www.patek.com

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RELOJERÍA: Reloj – VANCLEEFARPELS – Lady Arpels Cardinal Carmin Watch

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DESCRIPCION

Colección Extraordinaria de Dials, Lady Arpels Cardinal Carmin Watch. Caja de oro amarillo de 38 mm; Bisel de oro amarillo con diamantes redondos; Jadeita y variscite, diamantes redondos, pájaro sobre una base de oro blanco, arte de pluma en miniatura, pico de oro blanco, pintura en miniatura, ojo de oro blanco, ónix de cabujón; Corona de oro amarillo con un diamante redondo. Correa roja brillante del cocodrilo; Hebilla de perno de oro amarillo con diamantes redondos. DEF, SI a diamantes VVS. Movimiento mecánico de bobinado manual (830P), reserva de marcha de 60 horas. Edición numerada y limitada de 22 piezas.

Reference  VCARO4KA00

Yellow gold, Stone combination

Limited edition type: 22

Precious Stones

Diamonds: 169 stones, 2.93 carats

Jasper:  1 stone

Jade: 1 stone

Jadeite Jade: 1 stone

Variscite: 1 stone

Larimar: 1 stone

Please note that each Van Cleef & Arpels creation is handmade. As a result, carat weights and stone quantities may differ slightly from one creation to the next.

Case

Case Dimensions:38 mm

Water resistance: 3 ATM

Bracelet

Bracelet Material: Alligator

Buckle type: Ardillon buckle

Movement

Movement Type:

Manual-winding

Movement Functions:

Hours / Minutes

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RELOJES: CORUM Impresionante!!! Golden Bridge

MOVEMENT

CO 113 – 
Hand wound
Functions:  Hours, Minutes
Power reserve:  40 hours
Frequency:  4 Hz, 28’800 vph
Jewels:  19
Dimension:  14 ¾’’’x 5’’’
Movement finishes:  Bridges and plate in 18kt gold, CORUM logo engraved on the bridge

CASE

Shape:  Tonneau-shape
Diameter:  21.00 x 43.00 mm
Material:  5N 18kt red gold
Crystal:  Sapphire crystal with anti-reflective treatment
Back:  Screwed in open back cover in 5N 18kt red gold with glare proof sapphire crystal
Thickness:  11.24 mm
Water resistant:  30 meters / 3 ATM

DIAL

Material:  No dial

BRACELET

Color:  Black
Material:  Crocodile leather
Buckle:  Tongue buckle
Interhorn:  15/12 mm
A watchmaking jewel
A 360° view of the movement thanks to the ‘opened’ case

Más Información: http://www.corum.ch/es/miss-golden-bridge-3#reference